Engine runs poorly. Cleaned wheels and electrical pickup plates with track cleaner. Did not help. Any recommendations to improve operation? DMK
This locomotive dates from 1969 and was produced by Mehano (for Atlas), making it something that didn't run well when it was new and something that will probably never run well regardless of how much tinkering you do with it. For what it's worth, Arnold Rapido's 0-6-0s from that era were good. This is mine. Using the same mechanism, they also offered a more normalized looking black one with tender and a European 0-6-0T I think.
Yeah, I got the ones I have to run fairly well but it took work and they aren't ones you really want to use regularly. I just take them out every once and a while to see if they still run. That being said, check to see if the motor runs OK on its own. Remove the shell and the motor comes out easily by spreading the two copper/brass colored tabs away from the brush holders. Get some power to the brush holders and see if the motor runs smoothly. Look at the rear bearing to see if it has melted the surrounding plastic. There are other things too like checking gear mesh to be sure the mechanism is free and all that. Doug
DMK: Just to warn you... it may be a lost cause. I had one of those years ago. Poor electrical pickup even when new. Eventually the plastic frame warped. (Not sure how; it was always stored in a climate-controlled environment) and the mesh of the gears between the drivers got out of whack. I shed no tears... Jim
It was made by Mehanotehnika in, at the time, Yugoslavia. Go to my website for complete information. Jim, it was more likely the Zamac chassis that warped and took the plastic frame along with it. Doug
I've got the same one. Electrical pickup is good but it wobbles when it runs. Maybe new motor brushes?
"The 147" was the very first N Scale locomotive I had... http://www.irwinsjournal.com/ijonline/ij147.htm However, as noted above, it's not the world's best runner. In fact, I wore out that first copy and now I have two others.
I just remembered that I have another 0-6-0 as pictured here, painted for the Lehigh Valley Coal Co.. Painting it was a wasted effort; it's a piece of junk that sputters and wobbles its way along, stalling every few inches. It's in an AHM box, their Stock Number 4272. It's kind of a mystery model to me. It doesn't appear in Trovestar, nor in my JMC Catalogs of 1971, 1973 or 1974.
Yep, I think you’re right... maybe zinc pest? I do remember that whatever happened affected the plastic too... Generally I am a pack rat when it comes to model trains, but this was such a disappointment the entire time I owned it that I viewed it as a lost cause. It went in the bin. Thanks Doug!
Yup, I have couple of them with ruined chassis because of the Zamacitis (as I call it). I have repaired some of the Zamac chassis/frames but these are too far gone, crumbling and such. Doug
I know I have seen that loco before but I don't remember where. The shell is pretty much like the later Atlas o-6-o Saddle Tank loco from Austria but the mechanism is different. The running gear is completely different. Doug
With three domes, the AHM/Life-Like 0-6-0 set the standard for a busy boiler top. This is an eBay picture of the Life-Like.
The paper work says that it is an Atlas 0-6-0 made in Yugoslavia. Thanks to all. Looks like a back burner project to restore. DMK
The LL version of that one fries its motors all the time. I have two LLs that fried their motors. Oddly enough, they freewheel well when you take out the motors. I couple mine to a powered boxcar and use them as industrial or shop switchers.
Guys, I know that we beat this issue to death but I was curious of the workings of this little engine. I removed the shell from the frame and the motor from the frame. The worm gear was sitting too high to engage the drive gear. The worm was way too small to drive this engine properly. I will need to flat sand the bottom of the motor mounting frame so that it sits lower in order to engage the drive gear. Also, install a larger worm gear. Pictures attached. DMK
It really shouldn't be that far off if it's in the manufactured state and you can usually use a shim under the rear of the motor to lower the worm. You shouldn't have to do any sanding or alteration of the chassis. Does the rear motor shaft bushing look OK and does the motor run smoothly? Doug
May I suggest also that you check to see how well it rolls without the motor? What you describe sounds suspiciously like a warped frame or chassis... causing the mis-alignment. (“Hogging”... it’s warped up in the middle. Mine was “sagging”... it was warped down in the middle binding everything together.) I hope you get yours working smoothly. Jim PS: Many thanks for keeping us informed of your progress! Every time I read a fellow modeler’s experience with troubleshooting, it gives me more confidence to stretch myself to try similar things too.
I disagree on the shim as it would mis-align the worm gear to the drive gear.If anything, need to lower motor frame down to align worm with drive gear. The worm to drive gear ratio looks wrong. I may experiment with a larger worm gear. DMK
