This week, I took delivery of two GP15-1s from Walthers (well, actually, Terminal Hobby Shop) for about 28 dollars apiece. Both are in Frisco colors, and after testing them on the Grand Valley Model RR Club's layout, I'm fairly satisfied. What I see wrong with it is the lack of non-Frisco-specific details, plus the addition of snowplows, but I can fix this. The details aren't too half-bad, and they run OK. I've been wanting models of the GP15-1 ever since Nickel Plate Brass announced them in the early 1980s, and now I have two of 'em. Yeah, I know, I model N scale now, but I'm always on the lookout for Frisco-specific models in either scale. How many of you HOers have the GP15-1 (or any of Walthers' Trainline models), and what are your opinions of them? And, if you aren't too crazy of the chassis as power, what would you recommend?
I have two of the trainline's (Walthers)F40PHs in Amtrak scheme for about $35.00 a piece so I can't complain about the one piece molded shell without separate details. They are high speed & good runners and according to the Walters repair technician the trainline carries a lifetime warranty against failure, but the enclosed literature didn't spell that out.
I have a pair of GP15's and a pair of FA1's, and I used to have (but sold) a B40-8W. I'd say the trainline series is good value, the price is relatively cheap and the drive is pretty good, on the ones they've done new (GP15, F40, B40-8) they have no separate detail parts, but no moulded on ones either, so they're easy to add. The details go on fairly easily (Frisco noselight's probably the worst for you to deal with, one of mine's BN so I have that issue too!) Ref the "road specific" details, they do have 2 shell variations on the GP15's they do one with modern EMD style grilles behind the cab instead of the geep style louvres on the BN/Frisco one. I have a suspicion that the brass wheelsets attract more dirt than an average loco, but that's as yet unproven, NWSL does replacement wheelsets if that turns into a problem. I've yet to fully debug by GP15's, but one also had pickups that didn't touch the wheels which probably didn't help, they bent to the right location easily though. General running though (once the pickup problem was sorted) is pretty good, the starting & running voltages are closer to Atlas & Kato than Athearn & Bachmann, but if you're just running the 2 together that's not a problem. Hope that helps.
Thanks much, Martyn! I do plan on running the GP15s together and with the GP7s and GP38AC/-2s in my roster, much in the same manner as the Frisco did. They were used primarily on the Central Division, and on the QA&P line as well, so I plan to use them the same way on the club layout. BTW, my very first cab ride was on a Frisco GP15-1, the 100. It was in Ft. Smith, AR, on the night switch job- pretty decent switcher, too.
The only problem I've had with the Walthers units is the wheels. THey use some sort of weird metal that looks like copper on them and the coating wears off after a few cleanings leaving the baser metal which gets dirty fast. If I were still running my Walthers stuff I'd replace the wheels with NWSL Nickle Silver ones, if you can get them.
<font color="336633">I have a B40-8 which I repainted, I had a look at the GP15-1's but it looked 2 course for my liking, paint was about as thick as a real one! i do plan on getting a GP15-1 but it will be built from smokey valley parts. </font>
ll this GP15-1 talk finally put me over the deep end. NO, I am not going back to HO. I have wanted a Culvert Motor for a long time. I also wanted one with DB. I could buy a brass one for about $650.00 then chop it up for what I wanted. I went ahead and ordered a GP38-2 for the running gear and a Smokey Valley MP phase II kit. Will wait for the parts to come in to do some measuring prior to placing my order to NWSL for other parts and pieces. It will have the Cannon cab with an 81" nose. All the detail parts will be a Rio Grande unit. This will be a what if so I can freelance
Just a note on brass v nickel silver. Both oxidize (rust) as similar speed but with a single major difference. The oxide on the surface of brass does not conduct electricity, whilst the oxide on the surface of nickel silver does conduct electricity. Thus you have to clean brass wheels and track more often.
Matt, Now that you mention it, I have that very same kit somewhere, complete with handrails, chassis, and some spare trucks from an Athearn diesel. I agree, the Smoky Valley kit has better details, but after I finish superdetailing the two baby tunnel motors from Walthers, they should look somewhat better. I'm also gonna replace the couplers with Kadees (can't beat a Kadee coupler, IMHO) And thanks for the heads-up on the wheels- I'll keep an eye on 'em, and maybe in the future I'll replace 'em with NWSL wheels. BTW, they do run well- better than my GP9M (also from Walthers)
