Uncle peanut butter
Jun 11, 2020
Keep it coming!
I'll avoid the reverse loop section and go with continuous loop. I will leave the option of a reverse loop built into the track plan for future alterations.
I'm trying brother!
In the process of upgrading the house to 200 amp service. RR can't have too much power at hand!
So I’ve been trying to figure an era for my railroad and have been attracted to these videos.
Seems as though if I model the CR era I can run anything from anywhere! One rule for me would be that the EL paint scheme has to remain as is. Love it!
The 200 amp service upgrade is completed. I had some unexpected issues but we now have new service from the pole. New 200 amp panel and new wiring throughout the house. I did 85% of the work myself and that's what caused the stall in layout progress. Also had a 1000 gallon underground oil storage tank removed. Fortunately there were no signs of leaking.
I think I'm settled on a track plan and when I get the time I'll draw it out and post it here so I can get some feed back.
Hope everyone is staying healthy, Keith
I stripped the temporary layout back to the subframe and am ready to build back a more permanent layout.
Regarding a base material I’m settled on pink foam board. What’s the consensus on the base thickness. I had 1” green foam from from Lowe’s and it wasn’t sound enough as a base in my opinion. I’m thinking 2” pink foam. Any thoughts one way or the other?
I saw that before it looked as if there was nothing under the foam but the framework (which I think looks really good). I'll be interested to see other's comments but I'd put plywood over the framework and under the foam. I like 1/2" CDX (used for exterior under siding here). It is about $26 for a 4' x 8' sheet here in the middle of nowhere. As good as your framework is 3/8" might work but for the small difference and how much time and effort you will have into the layout I'd get the 1/2". CDX is not finished either side but still not that rough if you are going to put foam on top of it. I've actually hit one side with a belt sander and used it in the boats and camper and house as aa finished surface with a stain and polyurethane top coats.
The different turnout controls I'm using seem to work well with up to 1 1/2" thickness so I'm using 1" foam board on top of the 1/2" plywood. If I want more like out on the mainline I'll cut the plywood wide enough for the track above it and put it on risers with the 1" foam. That will still give me some thickness to carve into adjacent to the track and further from the track I could use different thicknesses of foam.
You might get away with 2" of foam on top of the 1/2" plywood if you need it but I'd test that out with whatever turnout control you are going to use.
I used 3/4 inch Birch plywood as a base and put 1/2 inch blue foam on top along with another layer of 1 inch pink foam. The blue foam acts as a warning track when carving below track level scenery. My benchwork is L girders.
Can I ask what the reason is for havi ga base of plywood?
I’m looking at this https://www.homedepot.com/p/Owens-C...ared-Edge-Insulation-Sheathing-52DD/202085962
which has a compressive strength of 25psi. Seems the plywood is overkill. What I don’t want is to find out that I should have taken the advice I’m being given.
Thanks and a Merry Christmas to all.
I'd say if you are comfortable with it give it a try but I want something more substantial behind/under it like is the case on house construction shown in the product pictures. Also I need something to screw into under the layout as I'll have servo brackets and other mechanically driven switch point brackets under turnouts. Might need to screw other items there also that I'm not even aware of at this point.
A lot easier to use the plywood now vs. later and it will really stiffen up the entire benchwork. The CDX that I use for most of my projects is not that expensive. I've built 3 of my houses and used mostly OSB for decking and under siding on those. Cheaper and plenty strong but wouldn't want to screw the small screws into it that I use for the servo brackets. Great to be nailed on and covered up but don't think it is a great choice for what we are doing for the small savings.,
Quick update. Same rules apply, suggestions welcome.
The tangents before and after the curves are just that. They have no part in the plan. The straight section along the back will have some small curves to give some visual interest. The mock up of foam board is the right rear of the layout.
The storage yard will sit on a shelf above my workbench and be approximately 8”x6’.
There will be a spot on the layout for set out and pick up of cars. The minimum radius at this point is 18” and I’ll try to grow that if I can but I’m not going to run any cars more than 40’ and power will be a GP9 and S2.
Stay safe, Keith
edit: There will be a sub base of plywood.