Would that I had room for a large layout. If i used all the room I have in my spare room, I still would only have a mainline run of maybe 25 or so feet, and that would require curves and other concessions I do not want to make; not exactly running large trains, even in N, no matter what.
If that guy from the hobby shop believes that freight cars should only be weathered from left to right, does he then run his cars only in one direction?
Thanks Inkaneer for the video link. I've met Todd at a couple of train shows, plus we work for the same employer, but he doesn't get out my way very often. I've not seen his layout in person yet, but I have a good friend who knows Todd very well. Hopefully someday when the moon and stars align, I'll get to see Todd's layout in person.
Man, I really like Todd's dense eastern woodlands. When scenery time arrives on my road, I'll need to research how he did this.
To each their own but I believe a consistent overall approach, to detail or weathering, gives the best appearance. I like realistic appearance for the particular era so appropriate weathering based on car age, degree of pride taken in stock etc. Super detailing is great, I do some cars that way but they are signature pieces. not having a permanent layout stock is handled a lot so robustness is important to me. I have some old Athearn BB cars and the stirrups on those make those Atlas car ones look fine but they have been weathered lightly to get rid of the plastic sheen and they look like different cars! I don't mind shiny "new" cars as long as it is appropriate, 6 months old etc, but have to get rid of the plastic sheen. Just my opinion. Enjoy the hobby your way!
"Then there's the guy I spoke with at a hobby shop many years ago who argued that freight cars should be weathered by moving the airbrush from left to right, not up and down. This is because as the car rolls in a train, it gets weathered horizontally, not vertically." Seems like the opinion of a "theorist" rather than an observer of railroads. Most "weathering" is either fading of paint or washing of accumulated dirt by rain, which is definitely downward. Scratches may often be horizontal, but even those often have rust streaks the go downward from them. There seem to be a lot if strange opinions that have been expressed in hobby shops.
@WM138 Try using Acrylic Terra Cotta that is what I used on my CP car I posted in the HO what's on the bench page 72. T.C works on brown cars as well as red like my CP car. Gives you a little more color variety. Just a thought
I'd like to see your example on page 72, but for some reason I can't find that thread on the HO board even when I do a search. Hope someone can supply a link. Thanks
Go to the HO section. Scroll down to HO scale what's on your workbench then page 72. Hope that helps some.
Found it. Sorry, it was the HO Scale prefix that put me off. The car looks great. How did you apply the acrylic terra cotta?
Very thin layers using distilled water with a micro drop of dawn to break the waters tension. I bought it at Micheal's or hobby lobby in their craft acrylic paint section .99 cents a bottle. Dullcoat or whatever your chosen flat is coat the car let it dry 1 day or whatever it takes to dry. Once dry get your color(s) set up 1 drop of paint on an old plate 1 area of water soap mix same plate. Keep separate Using a flat brush dip in the water squeeze some out. Make sure your using a better quality brush well worth it. With the damp brush just touch the colors edge until the tip of the brush shows some color. Then trying to keep it as vertical as you can stroke the car side from top to bottom. This will take several layers to build up to the coat you want. Using a hair dryer on low i use it to speed up the drying time be careful not to get the project to hot as the small items can deform. Hope this helps a little good luck.
Very nice work. I just did mine last night, first attempt at weathering. Mine is older than yours since it is a C30 and wood. I figured it would be a little grungy and darkened by use by the mid 50s, but in good condition overall since it the SP. it certainly helped it look less plastic! And I agree, for SP in the late 40s and early 50s I wouldn’t expect to see weathering and overall beat to pieces, run into the ground rolling stock like you would see in modern times.
