let me see if I get this right (1) if I'm seperating the track into "blocks" every 36" (according to manufacturer suggestions), I'm going to use insulated connectors on approximately every end of flextrack, turnouts, switches, etc... (2) i was planning on using the Atlas connectors (the ones with electric leads), so I'll have to change that and solder the leads to the rails (3) do I do this on the bottom of the rails, or inside rails, or...??? (4) should I get a book on DCC? if yes, which one? I think I got the basics of how it works, I just need the specifics. (5) I'd really like some working signals (especially in the area where the two main lines go through where the turnouts are and maybe some near the tunnels), can anyone look at my plan and suggest (a) how I should go about this (b) where the signals would go if this was your plan? Mike
Hi Mike, let me start with the easiest: Book There are several books available, but one sometimes is even called the DCC-bible. Look out for: Digital Command Control - the comprehensive guide to DCC ; ISBN : 9185496499; Author : Stan Ames, Rutger Friberg, Loizeaux. Edward Another one (often also refferd to as excellent source) is probably: DCC Made Easy: Digital Command Control for Your Model Railroad ; Author : Lionel Strang; ISBN : 0890246165 more books are mentioned on the DCC-Portal http://www.dcc-portal.net/ under 'books'. I personally also like the books from Rutger Friberg also they are a bit more Lenz-weighted Regarding the blocks-question: I would add at least one block per signal. WIth blocks you may later control/check which parts of your layout are occupied by trains and which aren´t. Look out for block-occupancy-detectors to understand their requirements. Littfinsky (a German supplier of such devices) has pretty good documentation on their stuff (RM-GB-8). You may find their website (english also supported!) under http://www.ldt-infocenter.com/. For shure there are other good suppliers in your country too.
I soldered to the outside of the rails. With the inside of the rails, you'll have some flange problems, I can guarantee it. Some solder to the bottom of the track. I like to be able to see the connections. The wire is hidden by ballast and the soldered feeder wire blends in when you paint it the same colour as what you painted the rail with. If you haven't soldered in N before, practise on some pieces you plan on being scrap. If you're like the rest of us, you'll melt some ties until you get the hang of it. With the melted ties issues, that flex track went in the back area where it was less visible. The only difference between flex track being its own block and not, is whether you use insulated rail joiners or metal rail joiners. You can even have "common rail" joining which is good for curves using flex track. What you do here is use metal joiners on the outside track, soldered to stop the kinking and hold the curve better, and an insulated joiner on the inside. Since you are using insulated joiners on all flex track, each track will be its own little layout. This tactic is what I did. Everyone will tell you it is over kill, but you'll never have problems tracking down electrical problems, you'll be ready for signals, and computer running, if you ever decide to go that route.
Lay it all, wire it all with feeders and then using a motor tool cut your gaps and fill with styrene.It doesnt get much easier than that and you can determine your area's for blocks when you are through rather than trying to determine as you are laying track. My opinion,worth price charged
