This is a very interesting concept on building a shelf layout. I would have never thought of such a construction technique. Keep up the good work and keep the photo updates coming!
Time for another progress update. Here's the module with some Atlas #10's laid out to refine the yard ladder. I've elimnated one track from the original plan. I'll probably add a small straight section between those two turnouts that are assembled "point-to-point" in order to relax the resulting S-curve a bit. Here's my tip of the day: A 30" section of ABS drain pipe makes a great storage container for flex track. Also, with caps shoved on both ends and a couple of ounces of IPA inside, it makes a great track washer to remove the manufacturing residues prior to trying to solder, paint, etc. the track. I mentioned earlier that I plan to power the turnouts with Tortise machines, so here's my approach to those. I read up on the edge connector approach but decided to go with the traditional soldered wires leading to an 8 posiion terminal strip. We are fortunate to have a real electronics supply shop here in Tucson. I was able to find 22 gauge, solid conductor, pre-tinned wire to use. A 20 gauge wire will not go through the holes in the Tortoise, so 22 gauge is the best fit. It was a pleasant surprise to find that pre-tinned wire. I don't believe places like Radio Shack carry that. I had better results than usual with the soldering. I attribute that mainly to the fact that I quit trying to use the cheapo equipment and invested in a nicer Weller unit that offers a good selection of high-quality tips. That's it for now.
Nice stuff Jack.I want to use Tortoise switches as well but have never seen them wired.Nice close-up pictures.Keep them coming.
Jack, I have a Weller with 23 and 40 Watt adapters. Can you recommend the right tip for track soldering, for DCC soldering. Thanks
I can't speak to all of their tips, but both the ST5 and ST7 come to fine points that are good for small, detailed soldering. With a smaller point, it is important to remember that the iron will not hold as much heat reserve which is a trade-off. I've been using a Weller 40 watt with a base that allows "dialing down" the wattage.
First Tortoise installation Since I've never installed either an Atlas code 55 turnout or a Tortoise switch machine, I decided to temporarily assemble one of each to the module for a bit of learning and testing. With the Code 55 turnout temporarily mounted on the top side (with 1/4" holes drilled for the throwbar wire, frog feeder and track feeders, I used the Tortoise template to locate and drill pilot holes for the #4 x 1/2" mounting screws. I also mouted that terminal strip next to the tortoise. Sorry about the odd angle of the photo. The module is sitting on its edge (a nice feature of module construction). If this were the final installation, I would have trimmed and dressed the track feeder wires (right side) and frog feeder (left side) a bit nicer. I've always soldered feeders directly to the rails, but have no interest in doing that with turnouts. As an alternative, I'm trying the approach of soldering the feeders to the bottom of the rail joiners in the areas of the turnouts. Here are a couple of examples: I did a pull test on one and that solder really holds the wire well. I used the same pre-tinned 22 gauge solid wire I used for the Tortoise connections. I'll use those liberally among the turnouts, since I'll have a rail 1 and 2 connection on the terminal blocks anyways (for feeding the powered frogs). Here's the top view showing the turnout installation. Finally, the fun part. A few pieces of flex and a small consist to test operation. That Kato CGW RS2 is one of my oldest and lightest locos, so I figured that would be a good test. I'm happy to report that performance through both branches of the Code 55 turnout was flawless. That Tortoise stall motor and spring wire really does a great job of holding the points firmly closed. I have the fulcrum slid all the way up to the bottom side of the 1/2" subroadbed and that seems about right for the small throw distance of these N scale turnouts. A few lessons learned to pass along: a) Next time I'll spread the hole pattern for mounting the Tortoise slightly to allow a bit more side-to-side adjustment once everything is mounted. I found that the first attempt was closing one point firmer that the other. I was able to loosen the screws and adjust it a bit, but would still like a broader range. May not matter, but I tend to be a bit OCD on these types of things. b) I bought that 12V power supply in the photos (feeding the Tortoise) from a reputable electronics house here in Tucson. The term you need to look for is "regulated." That one is advertised at 12V and my multimeter verified 12.1 volts under zero load. I have two older "12 volt" Radio Shack units and they both put out a whopping 15 volts even under minor load. Not good, especially since I use my 12 volt buss to feed LED signals.
Just a brief update.... I extended my testing today to a Kato Mikado both pushing and pulling a string of cars through that Atlas Code 55 turnout. Flawless performance without any tuning" of that turnout. I'm very pleased! Thanks Atlas. :thumbs_up::thumbs_up:
I've been using Atlas Code 55 and Tortoise motors on my layout for a couple of years now and have had no problems with them. I think you will find that they are just what you need.
I've further refined the track layout and drafted a wiring schematic to work from. In recognition of the continuing trend towards DCC, I decided to eliminate all blocks (other than the basic "red" outer and "blue" inner loops that I've been using on all modules to date). I've shifted all yard trackage to the inner loop so as to isolate the outer loop except for a couple of crossovers. I'll probably implement DCC exclusively on the inner loop and use the outer loop in either DCC or DC for running legacy equipment (such as the CB&Q Kato Mikado). Powerpoint's drawing tools work pretty good for schematics once you get some basic elements created. Here's the source file in case anyone wants to take a closer look. http://home.comcast.net/~norsemanjack/schematic.ppt By the way, this is one of those areas where nitpicking (i.e. a second set of eyes) is greatly appreciated.
Wow, very impressive Jack. At the time I dont have a layout, will probably do something small under our glass dinning room table,but after that was thinking of modules and yours are most impressive my friend. Does anyone have any info on any n scale modular clubs in the southwest Washington state area? Again great work Jack.
vvaynevv - welcome to trainboard!! Thanks for the kind comments. I've been slowed since that last post, as I had finally reached the point where I decided if I'm going DCC, I need to get on with it (affects the wiring, blocks, etc.). The DCC system shipped today (a NCE PowerPro - R), so I should be back on track ( ) soon. Modular is a really nice approach. Easy to get going and there doesn't ever need to be a master plan.
I just stumbled across this post with a google search. Your modules look great and they blend very well. Are you going to do any switching other than the yard? Or primarily trains on those big open spaces? -Doug
Welcome to Trainboard Doug. That yard will be my first use of turnouts since my old UniTrack layout. If all goes well, I'm sure I'll at least add a crossover elsewhere on the layout. With the modules, I don't need a long term plan, as I can always just choose a section and replace it. Regarding the turnouts, based upon my preliminary testing described earlier, I really like what I'm seeing with the Atlas code 55 #10 turnouts and the Tortoise machines. I've ordered some NCE "Switch-it" stationary decoders to drive the things.
looking good! I have new ideas for my next layout hehe Think I built mine up too quickly ... oh well lol
Thanks for the welcome Jack! Those atlas 55 switches are very nice, I used to be a micro engineering fan, but I still do use their flextrack over atlas. It's just a long process getting rid of all the old pizza cutters on my cars to roll smoothly over the atlas track. I have never used the tortoise controls before though. -Doug
Jack, Question for you: do you use 1/2" MDF? If you said, I didn't get it - wouldn't be the first time! I'm about to tear down my layout and re-do a smaller one, this time using your approach fully. The wife complained that there's no space for her to hang out with me in the basement, and I find that when I work in the basement, the trains are too high for me to enjoy them as a background. So we're going to lower it while we're redoing the layout. As work is slowing down and the holidays approach, I'm going to start dismantling in earnest. Do you have any further progress shots to share?
Hi William. Good to hear from you again. Yes, the tops of my modules are 1/2" MDF. If anyone ever puts together a list of the top five things you should never ask a modeler, I'm guessing the one about progress shots would be included.... :tb-biggrin: (along with "Hey, that custom job looks pretty good for a first attempt. How long did it take you? and "Have you ever thought about asking a more experienced modeler to help with your scenery?") Just kidding of course! Unfortunately, I haven't done much of anything the past several months, but the long holiday is approaching and I've also got a bunch of unused vacation to burn up. No excuses....:thumbs_up:
Thanks Jack. I'm considering using MDF for the sides and ends, where precision is needed more, and plywood for the floors. Reason is my corner modules become substantial, because I have 3 U-turns, and I don't want to break them up. That puts more of a premium on rigidity and light weight. Do you foresee any problems going that route?
