Hi folks, can anyone tell me the best way to model a non-operating waterfall. There's a spot on my layout that lends itself perfectly to a waterfall scene, but I'm not sure if anyone make a product that would look realistic. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Bill
There was a fantastic article in "Model Railroader" within the past year. Use their search engine to find the exact issue. These were head and shoulders above any previous waterfalls for realism - you couldn't tell the scenes were not real!
Thanks for the info Gregg. It appears that the article you are referring to was in the December 2000 issue. It doesn't seem to be available from MR as a back issue If anybody has this issue and is willing to scan it or sell it, please contact me. chesapeakenscaler@home.com Thanks Bill
Hi Bill, When I was into N-scale a few years ago, I made my waterfall using glass fibre (Car stuff) I first painted the area, then inlaid the glass fibre and when it was dry, just scrapped a knife down it to represent falling water, here's a photo of it. Cheers Paul
Bill: I also plan to use the method in the December 2000 issue of MR. It is used by Geoff Nott in Australia: www.greatlayouts.com/about.html The 11 step method is for a free-falling waterfall (as opposed to a cascading one). I'll paraphrase the steps: 1) Break the waterfall into a series of small drops with platforms of hardboard or plywood. Different heights and directions. 2) Smear silicone sealant on plastic strips of various widths at least (0.015") thick. Apply in a narrow line and spread it with a piece of stripwood. Aim for a fine, textured finish. When dry, drybrush with white acrylic paint. This is the waterfall. 3) The flat boards are the base for real shale rock. Glue with Liquid Nails protruding to get a clear drop for the waterfall. 4) Add small, loose, fallen rock at the bottom, foliage, logs, and other debris. 5) Trim and position the finished plastic strips. Small daps of clear sealant at the top and bottom hold the "waterfall" strips in position. 6) Mist is made by teasing out poly fiber, apply gloss medium to the plastic strips, and sticking the fiber in place. 7) Stipple thick white textured paint over the pond areas to achieve waves. Paint the water with acrylic paint - green tones. 8) Brush and drybrush some white paint at the bottom of the falls. 9) Add a coat of gloss medium over the painted surface to create sparkling water. 10) Add clear sealant through the rocks between the waterfalls to simulate fast-moving water. Drybrush white acrylic sparingly. 11) Finish the rough water areas with gloss medium. [ 09 August 2001: Message edited by: Gerry M ]</p>
I use a combination of the above mentioned silicone method and an Envirotex method. For the base I use a the fiber from a long, straight costume beard or wig. Then I pour on several very thin coats of Envirotex (this is easiest if horizontal BUT it will work in place with extra waste collecting at the bottom, but if you have a decent sized river it just becomes part of the lower half). After this some light washes of blue and white as needed with gloss medium over them to restore those area's shine. Then I use the silicone method for any "trickles" that might be completely seperate from the main rush of water. The silicone sheets are easy to make, I make lots at one time on wax paper then use them as needed for any number of "water falls" including culvert effluent and draining water from just about anything. One other thing to add regarding the water fall is make sure you "paint" the rocks in your falls "splash" zone with some green (Coach Green works well) for the moss that will grow there and then paint over that and all the rocks in the "splash/spray" zone with gloss medium which will make the rocks look wet. Vandy
Thanks for all the great ideas and info folks. You have given me some really great methods to try. I still will attempt to get the MR issue, (pictures of the process would really help ) but at least now I have something to practice. Thanks again Bill
