Thanks, sp4009. I may just mask them; that way I can say they were all painted. I'll feel just like I am in the Espee paint shop! Well, almost like that. Besides, always good to try something new. The decal idea is a good one, too. I used the Tamiya masking tape; it is really good stuff! I know I can do a much better job of masking by making more cuts and using smaller pieces of tape. I also learned that the fewer external detail pieces on the nose, the better for masking. Now for the feathers and then the grabs.
I did the feathers by cutting a strip of tape the width of the center feather. Then I placed more masking tape on each side. I chose to hand paint instead of airbrush. Masking: Hand painted result: The big problem here was that the tape pulled up the Espee Scarlet and/or the Lark Gray and I had to touch up both colors using a brush. This is another reason I decided not to add more masking and use the air brush. I found that all the paint around these feathers was very, very fragile, so I covered the side feathers with gloss paint to protect them as I continue working on the model. Here are pictures of both sides of the model using the three foot rule. You may notice that the rivets are beginning to become shiny as the gray paint wears off. Maybe it is the metal shell? Perhaps I should have clear coated the feathers before adding the gray stripes? In any case, I think this painting is passable and I can do a better job next time. Weathering will help obscure some of the flaws, too. If you compare these last two photos with my original photo of the CN paint scheme, it is clear that this shell has sharp detail that is covered by the original Model Power paint. I have also seen this to be true on Bachmann shells, particularly on an old C40-8 shell.
Saturday night and the dog and I are at home. Maybe I need a life? Nose details: Plow details; uncoupler bar and hoses added. Then added the sun shades. I really have to handle this shell carefully to keep the paint from popping off. I hope that sealing it will prevent that. It's getting there. Right side: Left side: Gloss paint for decals is next unless I forgot something.
They are the same color gray but not the same bottle. I ran out of the other bottle but this is the same type: Badger Accuflex. That's right...the original. It is probably about 15 years old. (The Badger Accuflex was the first water based paint that I thought was very good. Eventually Badger sold Accuflex and it is now made by someone else.) This original Badger paint sprays very well but it tends to separate when brushed on. That is the problem here and why I say the weathering should help cover this. Air brushing and hand painting can give the same paint color slightly different tones. BTW, these different tones are most obvious on the plow. I thought it gave the model a unique appearance. No worries. The gloss coat seemed to orange peel. I've tried to smooth it out and I am now adding decals.
Wow! I need to get me one of those! Great job Flash. The detailing looks fantastic. A little weathering will cover the grey difference up nicely. Keep the pictures coming.....enjoying this thread very much.
Thanks, guys. It could be done better and I try to point out those areas where I have trouble for those who might try this later. OTOH, for my layout, this FP7 engine will be in a gaggle of 5-8 other F units so it isn't so critical as though I was making it for someone else. I do enjoy this type of modeling very much; I really think I like it better than my layout operation, but to each his own on that, you know? Here it is all glossed up, decals and painting. I am going to let it dry overnight, then a dull layer of clear paint, and add the glass and a few other details.
Nice work Flash A ton of work - I think she'll look wonderful..... the Espee majored in weathering and minored in abuse anyway............ very nice work; I have learned a bunch !
Here it is all finished before weathering. The orange peel is not so bad with the clear flat. I'm still seeing little things to fix. It was a fun project but the Intermountain FP7 would definitely be a better starting point for detailing. I have operated this engine several times now and it is smoother with a little break-in time.
I know, I know. At first I was not really sure how they went on the roof. After looking at so many FP7 photos for the past few days, I figured that out. I may add icicle breakers later as it would not be too hard to do, but it was so warm yesterday I just couldn't get any of them to stand up correctly, you know? Maybe some energetic person will do that with the IM FP7 and I will see how that looks. Wonder if you should make them from brass wire or from styrene strips? BTW, thanks r_i_straw for the FP7 photo you posted to RailImages. It was a great profile shot and will help anyone to precisely locate roof top apparatus. Now to figure how to safely put this engine in the original box without breaking the details.
Flash, You nailed it. Excellent job. I can't wait for my IM units. I'll be doing the Black Widows.(Just what I needed,more F units). See ya, Wolf
One of the detail sheets from Gold Metal Models, #160-49, has etched ones. No problem, I just wanted to rattle your cage.
Beautiful work that I've come to expect from you! Thanks for sharing. I read the whole thread from start to finish. I admire your skills and especially your perseverance.
I just purchased a MP FP7 in C&O paint and I am very pleased with this engine overall. Your thread is one that I will often refer to "if" I get the urge to try to detail in this manner as this would be virgin territory for me. Thanks for sharing this and the photos along the way, outstanding to say the least. Your insight on all the pros & cons will help us all to correct any issues we may have with the MP FP7's. I look forward to adding more MP FP7s to the ever small yet growing fleet of locomotives I have. Again thanks this is outstanding! Dave Gilliland