I've tried the Walther's Brite-Boy, rubbing alcohol,even a flat screw driver, to remove glue and dirt off the rail heads, but VERY Little improvement. PLEASE DON"T TELL ME I HAVE TO RELAY!! Thanks!
Pat, I had to learn the hardway ONCE, it isn't easy, but it CAN be cleaned up. Yes, it depends upon what kind of glue & paint is on the rail. Be sure to set up a small fan to blow feums away from you! (You were supposed to have covered the rails with masking tape before painting and gluing.) Tsk-tsk! But... Like Larry says, you can use a flat file if the residue is hard. Get a new 6" flat finishing file without a handle, so you can lay it flat down on both rails, and gently work it along over the deposit with fairly light pressure to prevent cutting the rail. Also get some School Chalk and rub into the file teeth before you start, then stop every few minutes and clean the file teeth with a stiff tooth brush or brass bristle brush and re-chalk again. You should try one particular section for ALL tests. You should not see but very minimal marking on the rail surface when all the paint is gone. It does not work well on hot glue or silicone types. Remember to dress the flange side of the rails to remove any residue there too. You can use the scraper attachment on your soldering iron (carefully) to remove hot glue, and rubber base paints, wiping the rail imediately with 000 grade steel wool. Be sure to vacuum up steel cuttings afterward. For enamel and oil based paints, lacquer thinner is usefull, but will melt the plastic ties, and is extremely flamable!!! Do not smoke or open the container where there is an open flame or sparks!! Use a Q-tip and it will soften the enamel as well as lacquer paints, and cellulose glues, without applying so much it runs down onto the ties. Change the q-tips often and drop them into a coffee can to dispose of later. None of this requires any hammering, or heavy pressure, so the rails should be good as new, see? Email me if you have a problem, I have been there too old buddy!
Ok I hand painted my rails, earlier, but I cleaned them of with the brite-boy (I have two of them)and no problems, then about two months later, about one month ago) I ballasted the rails according to when Lionel Strang ballasted the Northwestern Timber company layout. I mixed the folowing: 60% ROSS White School Glue 40% Water all wheel flanges clear the ballast. Ballast is lower than height of rail heads, (except on dead-ends) I used roughly a 60-40 so I could the glue Exactly where i wanted then it would soak in perfectly. I didn't glue the ballast where the wires are connected (special atlas rail joiners that has a wire manufactured into the joiner) because I learned the hard way on my previous layout (HO). A file you say, Larry? Hmm, I'm questioning that in the turns, because it will leave filed "grooves" and my dash 8's my try to go repeling off of Liar Grade.
You haven't tried the acetone (nail polish remover) yet?? Put some on the back of a piece of leather (suede side) and rub the rails good and strong. Obviously it could be your locos wheels too.
