Something about that photo... it is really good. I showed that to a number of non-train people today who were also impressed. Sometimes a photos says a lot of things at once. That one does to me. Charlie
I have decided to go with the D&RGW version instead of the D&SL because I liked that style better. Still a lot of work to do but here is the progress to date; This will not be exactly correct because there is so little information on these engines but I hope to capture the feeling on one. John
Geez did I miss the boat with this one,John that is some excellent work,certainly captures the feel for me!! Can I ask where you got the pilot head light & the reverser?Also did you use the M/T 1042 pilot ?I was going to use one & bash it abit (foot plates) but no glues take to Delrin so was going to scratch one up,plus I was thinking of changing the cab maybe scratch one,what do you think? Again great job John.
Charlie, Thanks alot,I'm abit shocked,I thought I'm a crappy photographer,I appreciate your words alot though.
Jason, Thank you, it was a fun project. The pilot was a MT 1044 which I attached by making a brass plate which was screwed to the top of the pilot which was ran back and screwed to the body of the loco. Super glue helps to hold this in place. Super glue will attach delrin if no twisting force cab be exerted, then it will snap loose. The headlight is a LED with a piece of paper wrapped around the top and cut to shape. The leads are bent and run down to connect with wires underneath. The power reverse is from Precision scale parts. I added about a scale foot of strip styrene to the back of the cab which not only looks more like the prototype but also helps to hide the motor better. The detail on top of the cab was taken off and redone as per the photos I have for the roof hatches. I used a Kato bell where the headlight used to be. I posted some shots of the finished loco under the thread D&RGW 2-6-6-0 which I believe is on page two of this forum. Hope this helps.
Don, This is in Japanese but you can use babelfish for translations; http://www.microace-arii.co.jp/ Or you can go to; http://www.rainbowten.co.jp/english/index.html This is a hobby shop in Japan that sells Micro-Ace,Kato, etc. and has a link to a English page.
Well I took the step and ordered one. Probably will use it pretty much as is except for the tender. Have a slope back in the box for that which will close to duplicate a logger. John Moore
Picked up my Micro-Ace 0-6-6-0 today and was studying it and looking at some MT pilots. It appears that the wheels used with the MT conversion for an 0-6-0 to 2-6-0 will be too large in diameter. After looking at the photos of the D&RGW conversion it looks like a small set of wheels was substituted. Am I correct? Also It appears that current pickup is from both sides of the rail on the tender if I'm correct. Since I am adding a different tender I'll have to have each truck pick up from separate sides it appears. One of the problems is the lack of a schematic included with the unit like with some other locos and I'm hesistant to start pulling things apart. It does appear that the pilot and front cylinders are a one piece casting if I am correct. Any additional imput would be appreciated. John Moore [ 10. April 2004, 09:21: Message edited by: John Moore ]
John M, The pilot is a old Micro-Trains 1044 conversion kit that I adapted and added a set of freight wheels under it. These proved to be a litle too large so I replaced them with Northwestern 28" wheels and made a cradle out of metal that screws into the pilot from underneath. It seems to track pretty well. The tender was made by using a shell from a old style B-Mann 2-8-0. I took the floor and trucks from a Kato caboose because it has pick-ups for lighting. the floor and tender do not fit exactly, the floor has to be made a bit wider for a snug fit. I just glued some strip styrene on the sides to do this. The M-A has two wires runing to the tender that are soldered to copper strips just like Kato does for there pick-ups. The Kato caboose floor has two "runners" on each side that these copper strips can be slipped into. It ends up looking like the two were made for each other. There was some space between the pilot and the cylinders that was filled in but those are the original cylinders that came with the engine. I did add a small rectangular piece of plastic to the top of the cylinders that was more like the DRGW loco. The cab was also lengthened about a foot and the top was extended and modified. This help hid the motor a little better and was closer to the size of the DRGW cab. Hope this helps. John, I have also posted a couple of update pics on the 1800's private car. Still not done, it is going kind of slow.
That car is absolutely beautiful. Looks like a Kato Cabbose is going to be on my shopping list for this mornings visit to the hobby shop. Since I am doing a logging version I am going to be using a modified Bmann slope back tender that I picked up at a show. I'm going to splice in a small section between the feul bunk and the sloping portion to slightly increase the length and convert the coal bunk to oil. The slopeback tender was used by some logging lines because the locomotive would be running in reverse on switchbacks, or a lack of turning facilities at the end of line. Also to add something about the locomotive. It is now offered in two versions, A0651 original, and A0652 modified. The modified has a cross compund air pump, side mounted, and additional piping on both sides, which is the version I have. John Moore
John, After adding the second truck to the tender the pick up is improved and the loco runs better then when new. I have both versions of the loco. Glad you liked the "Josephna", I'm putting the toilets in at each end now. Then I can do the rest of the seats on the two ends.
I'm putting the toilets in at each end now. Okay if you manage the paper on the roller and the soap in the soap dish, I'll really have to bow and kowtow to the master. I did pickup a Kato caboose today and instead of doing much work on the underframe I'll have to do a little widening on the sidesill of the slopeback. Almost an exact fit and maybe two foot short in length. I just have to solder the wires in the underframe since the caboose already has the pickup strips. Once I start the project I'll keep a running photo album of progress again. John Moore
John, Many years ago I did make a detailed interior of a house that included an addition that had a man in a bathtub, a toilet, a piece of round plastic to simulate the toilet paper, sink, bathroom scale, and the upstairs had a toilet also. But no roller for the toilet paper.
