I’ve been evaluating options for servo extensions. Of course, the easiest route is to buy pre-made extensions but they are the most expensive option per foot of length. Other drawbacks include more connectors, less than optimal cable lengths, and leftover pieces. The least expensive option is to purchase several short extensions (say 1 ft) and splice in servo wire to obtain optimal length. Would only need to purchase JR servo wire. I want to keep the same wire color code throughout (servo extensions, servo pigtails, and pigtail for Berrett Hill toggle switches). The intermediate solution is to purchase my own crimper, connectors, and servo cable. The initial start-up cost would perhaps be the highest with this option but would provide the greatest future flexibility. This is the option I am currently entertaining but the splicing option also seems very desirable. I need to find someone that will give me sound advice on making extensions. What size servo wire do I need? From my reading, it seems that 26 gauge wire should be adequate since we're talking very low current (10 mA for each servo when idling, 100 mA when throwing a switch, and a very short 2A spike at startup). Using the Hansen Hobbies example, do I need to pay for the deluxe servo wire or will the economy servo wire be adequate? Max length for the extension is six feet There will be two gradual right turns (~4 inch radius). The servo wire will be bundled together and separated as needed to connect to the servo. They will rarely be moved once installed. Should this servo wire bundle be twisted? Given that I'm a total newbie with making extensions, should I splice in additional wire to commercial extensions or totally make my own? At the end of the day, probably talking about making 30 new or spliced extensions. If I make my own, do I need the gold-plated connectors? Any recommendation on connectors and a crimper? I look forward to reading your replies!
I make my own extensions all the time but not for model railroading but for R/C airplanes. Given that gravity is always against you and that R/C planes can cost hundreds of dollars and more importantly the damage they can do if you lose control, I want to make sure that extensions work! It is quite easy to make them. You can get the crimper from Hansen. I use one made by Radio Shack back in the days when they were still in business. Make sure the crimp is good, that's the key. Whether you need gold plated is debatable. All the connector kits that I have bought were never gold plated and they work just fine. Even if it's gold colored I'm not sure it's really gold, quality control and what not from China. Any of the servo wires from Hansen will work. The costlier one is more strands with more flexibility. If you are not going to make a ton of extension, just get the costlier one. If you are going to make hundreds and hundreds of extensions then maybe you can save a little with their economy wire. Either way, they are good for big, fast flying airplanes so it will be good for sedate, slow moving trains. I have even used the stiffer wires and "folded" them into bundles with 180 degree tight turns and just squeezing them together (think a new package of shoe laces) and there have never been any problems. You do not need twisted wires. If you need to run multiple extensions along the same path, just bundle and zip tie. People run bundled servo wires all the time in their fuselage with no issues, myself included. Another possibility is buy the longest extension you can find. Usually the longer, the cheaper it is per foot. Now you have two connectors at each end. You can then cut the extension into two or more sections to your needs and add your own connectors. Since you already have two connectors on the wire you are ahead of the game. Whatever you do, do NOT splice in the middle to make a longer extension. It's ugly, inflexible at the joints, and more importantly more chances of failure than if you just crimp two connectors on to the correct length of wire. How many times you've seen an AC extension cord with a splice in the middle to make it longer? I would just buy from Hansen. They may not be the cheapest but their stuff works and it's one stop shopping, given the cost of shipping now a days.
I have had to make extensions for airplanes and now model railroading get a good crimper set and a connector set for three wire servo connectors and if your going to use an arduino for DCC++Ex or similar get a multiwire connector kit also the one I have has 1-10 wire connectors you will use them sooner or later if your layout will have lights or animations on it. I have used about 600 ft of 26ga servo wire from amazon on my Ho layout so far without any issues so far and some of my servo wires are close to 8 ft long from my arduino mega cmri nodes to the servo`s just try to run them as far separated from your dcc bus and any other power supply wires as you can. I purchased my crimpers, connector sets, and wire from amazon
Here are the links to the items I use the wire https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073R6C1L8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 the dupont multi connector kit https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B078RRPRQZ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1 the 3 wire servo connector kit which is currently unavailable but will give you a description to search with https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07WR53WQB/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1 and the crimper set https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B082234HSS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1
Thanks guys that helps a lot. Do you see a negative with going with 22 awg wire (I can see the weight in RC being a consideration)? I bought a lot of different length servo connectors but like the idea of making them to length especially if I had to daisy chain some to get the length I need. I think I've gone up to 15 feet that way and still had reliable servo control with the servo controller I'm using but think that the 22 awg might also help on longer runs (I have a few). Sumner
Nothing wrong with 22 gauge. The only limitation is the crimp on the bare wire when you make up the pin connector contacts and if the thickness of the insulation will prevent you from pushing the wire into the housing. Also, the second crimp / strain relief position on the pin connector may not work too well with 22 gauge insulation. There may not be enough material on the "tang" to wrap around the insulation.
