Assuming arguendo, that I am not the dimmest bulb amongst the almost 5000 people on this board*, the LLL has come up with a technique for making Atlas Code 80 insulated rail joiners fit properly, and would like to share it with those not smart enough to have used Kato track in the first place. I am sure you have noted that when an insulated rail joiner is inserted into the block track, the common rail is then gapped. My gaps seem to cause derailments. Just take a pair of Xuron rail clippers (or similar) and cut off the tiniest part of the block rail (not the common) and the common rail joint will be flush. * although I would bet that I am near the bottom of the wattage heap.
Mark: With Kato Unitrack, the insulated rail joiners always fit. BTW, how is the Unitrack going? Sorry to change the topic... Stay cool and run steam.....
This is certainly a better technique than using a 2 pound ball peen hammer......... BTW- Nothing to worry about. You aren't even close to low wattage light output. Many of us can relate absolute horror stories they've seen, of real model RR butchery. You're doing just fine. Boxcab E50
Bob- I made a hard finance based last chance try at Code 80 on the top part. I calculated a loss of about $200 in soon to be useless Atlas parts and expenditure of about $300 or more for Unitrack. I already had all of the Atlas track and turnouts and cork, etc. and wiring pretty much was already done. I just need to disappear a second reverse loop and realign some power blocks. I am giving Atlas one more chance. So far, so good. Without any reservations or question, expansion around the room will be Unitrack since I will have no Atlas track and turnouts remaining.
