You know Jack this just might not be a bad idea. I was going back through this thread and it occurred to me that if I’m going to use the whole closet anyway then this option may actually be the way to go and then I would only need a lift to move one level up to the steamer shelf. I have to go to work now, but I’ll surly be thing about these ideas today and maybe come up with a solution tonight.
Ingenious, storage shelves that convert into a staging yard. Downside, here in CA., I wouldn't trust that method as we are apt to get an earthquake. Hate picking up my train collection off the floor. I haven't talked to Stubby, he may be out of town today. Still working on it. I don't post pictures here anymore so, I will send you an e-mail with the pictures and information I've collected from him. It may take untill after the first of year. We move slow in Big Bear when it's this cold. Grin! Got to get this edit out before the clock runs out. I hate playing beat the clock.
No problem. I’m not much in a hurry right now. I was hoping to get it started this weekend, but that’s not going to happen right now because its looking more and more like it’s not going to happen at all Ok so I did some measuring and the staging will not fit in the closet at all without shortening it to 4 ft and all the trains will have to be backed in, so that idea is out. I will still have to back the train in with the lift but will have twice the train length instead of 4ft. I will still be limited to 8ft whether I go with the lift or the helix and the only advantage to the helix is that I do not have to back in. The main problem is still that oval Helix takes up a huge amount of space and uses a lot of track and if I do it at all I might end up with a singe track instead of a double just to cut down the size.
Rick, the current policy is the one-hour timeout for member edits to a post. After that, they may feel freee to ask a staff member for assistance. I asked the question to see if the time could be adjusted, but for now that is the story.
I didn’t know what the time was, but I have the same issue and a came close to commenting on it myself. It’s the main reason that I don’t post that often anymore. My eyes are bad and half the time I don’t have my reading glasses on so I might not notice something until the next day. It just seems silly to have everything set in stone for a hobby forum.
Johnny, There have been malicious members, who upon their leaving the board, delete all posts, photos and blogs, or change the posts to somethign offensive and inappropriate. This is a measure against such childish behavior.
Johnny, one more thing--if you use thin plywood for a helix, use good aircraft plywood with 5 or more plies. BCR 570 used 1/8" (gasp!) aircraft ply, and his helix is going strong for several years noow. Just food for thought.
Pretty sad when the rest of us get punished for the sins of a few. I've seen this kind of thinking...too much. Reminds me of when I went to a parochial church school. I was not a happy camper during that time in my life...I hated it. Me thinks we need to find a better way to resolve this unsolved issue. There needs to be a time lock out but I would suggest a 24 hour period. And, yes I don't post here much anymore because of it. Johnny, Back to the subject at hand. Regarding the wood, Stubby used 1/2" OSB and I used Presswood. Both are doing well holding the grade without dropping or buckling. We both use supports at about one foot center. I built mine with wood and he used metal threaded "whatchmacallit's", nuts and bolts type of framework, with a metal plate that runs under the wood to hold it in place. This gives him more clearance to work with in between the layers. In the meantime, to everyone reading this have a safe and happy celebration as we welcome the New Year in. Hoping 2012 brings better things for all of us.
Ok I think I know what you’re talking about. I’ve seen the “al thread” helix’s before. They are kind of nice because you can adjust them with the nuts. I have a lot of threaded rod, but I’m not really interested because of the weight. And as far as OSB and Presswood I’ll never use that stuff again or at least on a portable layout, because its so heavy. I used it on first portable 40x60 layout years ago and it just got so heavy that I can’t pick it up anymore. Right now it’s up in the rafters. I’ve been thinking about bringing it down and using it again, but I’m not strong enough anymore. I have two severed tendons in my shoulder and I can’t raise my arm over my shoulder, but I can carry a 5 gal bucket of paint and push a wheelbarrow full of dirt, but can’t pull it out. I’ll just have to remember the next time I have a couple of tall strapping guys around to put them to work pulling my layout down. laugh: Anyway, I’m now looking at just a single track. I’m looking for something light weight and expendable to make up a mock helix exactly the same size so I can see exactly how much space its going to take. I have a piece of ¼” plywood to use for a base and maybe I’ll use cardboard boxes around the outside to represent the helix.
I like your transfer table staging idea, and reducing the helix to a single track would make it easier to put a bowl-shaped helix (oval or circular) in place. As Hemi said, the original construction, routine track maintenance, and derailment rescuing will be WAAAAY easier in a bowl than in a stacked cylinder. Check My Blog and My Albums linked below for entries and pics about designing and building bowl helixes.
Thanks, I like the bowl idea and I was trying to do an upside down bowl so it would look more a train winding up a mountain, but I’m limited 32” max width which would put the last turn radius at 9.75” on the 6[SUP]th[/SUP] loop. If I elongate the helix to the full length of the closet I can knock it down to 4 loops which would make it 12.25 R for the smallest curve and I’m just not happy with that. Plus if I go with the upside down approach then the trains in the back against the wall will be inaccessible. So I tried having all the curves at 16” and offsetting them so the front will be terraced up on the outside and the back will be terraced up on the inside. But I’m not happy with the extra 7” sticking outside the front of the closet because it makes it too tight a squeeze entering the room. I was able to put a crossing on the first level to break out of the loop and not interfere with the turnouts between the staging and the helix. My only real options are reducing the curves down to maybe 14” R or cutting the length in half and have more levels which I haven’t tried yet (A note on the drawing, it appears as if its 3D, but its NOT) But I am getting closer :thumbs_up:
New Demo video of my helix My newest design in XtrakCad using the train run function, It shows how the trains will travel between the staging and the Service Area via the helix. I'm using a new Video Screen Capture Program and it starts out a little slow but just have patience and it will be clear. Sorry but its not built yet to have a real video http://www.screencast.com/t/BI4u2sYql
I would consider usuing 5/16 or 3/8 all threat/ready rod to support the track and go up the center of the tracks and make sure you have trap door in the top for access. With the threaded rod you can adjust the grade to keep it in your specifications. It looks good but keep in mind the true test is, can you pull all the cars you want up the hill with the engine with the least amount of tractive force.---- again looking good and is doable Alan C.
I would consider usuing 5/16 or 3/8 all threat/ready rod to support the track and go up the center of the tracks and make sure you have trap door in the top for access. With the threaded rod you can adjust the grade to keep it in your specifications. It looks good but keep in mind the true test is, can you pull all the cars you want up the hill with the engine with the least amount of tractive force.---- again looking good and is doable Alan C.
