Hey all. A fellow member recommended that I post my plan here to get some input, and I think that is probably the best idea since I am so new to this hobby and I want to make the best layout I could. So basically, I've developed to ideas that to me, seem promising. The first is a 7 by 10 layout, with the max curve radius at 36 inches: This is the second, more recent plan I did. It's 6 by 8, with 33.25 inches on the curves. I did this one after another member recommended I looked at the sectional track Bachman offers, specifically the sectional track with that radius: So I drew the second plan to see what I felt I could do. I also shortened it length wise. If my MMI K-37 can handle the smaller radius I'd prefer to build the smaller layout since I'm limited on space. But I came here looking for input, so please, what do you guys think? What can I do/alter/improve to make the best of the space I have? I was asked if I planned to build a free-standing layout too, can someone elaborate on what this means (even though I already have some idea)? Thanks, look forward to chatting with y'all.
Hi, welcome to Trainboard! Free standing is when the layout is in the center of the room and you'll have access to all sides, like an island. However, even for an island layout at 7x10, reaching those center elements will be a strain. As far as your plan, my only input is to kill the switch-back. All switch-backs are pure evil, and in this case, I dont think you'll be able to fit even one locomotive on the lead, let alone loco + car to switch into the spurs. Before you go any further, I'd take an overall look of your layout room. Designing a 7x10 layout means you probably have a good size room, after you factor the room necessary to move around. Consider having your layout wrap around the room along the wall, sticking out maybe a foot and a half, or two. With that type of set up, you can run much broader curves, yet the actual layout square footage will remain almost identical to the island design. Around the walls also increases the distance your trains will travel, giving you a more grand sense of scale.
Hey Mystere, thanks. I did think about the switchbacks, since I'll be modeling in On30 and the K-37 is a pretty big engine when you factor in loco plus tender. On the smaller track plan I tried to extend the lead so I could back it in and out. But I can see what you mean about there not being any room anyway, at least not for small yard like I planned. I should also probably point out that while the room I have is a big room, its technically not a room, its my garage, and I will only be able to use one side of it once me and my dad clean it out. The other side will be taken up by the family car. So the layout has to be on a table or "island" or else it won't be able to work. So my biggest concern is doing what I can to optimize the space I do have. I planned to make the table run length-wise to the wall, while only coming out that 6 or 7 feet and leaving enough clearance for the car. I didn't model much back back by the wall side because as some people pointed out to me it would be hard to get back there anyway.
Definitely do take a look at this possibility. In the long run, should the idea be workable, you'll be much happier. Boxcab E50
Here's a visual aid for what I'm talking about. You can adapt this design in a garage very easily. Just but up two sides into a corner, then the other two will extend out toward the center of the garage like a closed peninsula. You'll have to include a duck under, lift out or swing away for access to the center, but there are simple ways to build those. Assuming the average person is comfortable moving around in 32 inches of space (the width of a door) You'll need 12'4"x15'4" of floor space to comfortably access the 7x10 foot layout. You get 70sq feet of table space, and your max radius is about 36 inches. Now lets take that space and invert it. Put your benchwork around the perimeter and leave the center open for access. The floor space is still 12'4"x 15'4", and from the center, we still have the space to move around comfortably. But now we have 120sq feet of table space and our max radius is a whopping 70 inches! A simple oval mainline could reach over 600 inches, vs just 300 on the island design.
Google the HOG - Heart of Georgia beginner's alternative to the 4X8. (Usually) Easily adaptable to any rectangular space. I'm with Mystere. The only proviso is that some people find they really dislike duckunders / liftouts after awhile. I've never had one myself, so I can't speak from personal experience.
The idea is pretty cool Mystere, I only wish I could do it. Like I said, my parents are giving me only one side of the garage to work with, and barely a whole side at that. My layout kind of has to be on a table, which is why I wanna utilize the space as best I can. The best I can probably hope for is 6 or 7 by 8.
ArtFan I have been considering On30 too and have been researching info, so here are some resource links The On30 Information and Resource Center 'On30 Tracks' Magazine
