I had the same result trying to install a 58941 in a Kato PA1, the board restricts the shell from sitting down where it belongs. Good to know they’ll fit in the Kato Fs and Es.
So is the cure to use a hardwired LokSound 5 Nano instead?? I have a Kato PA-1 that I might want sound in at some point. Now it is DCC non-sound. Sumner
Got the decoder back from Bryan at SBS a week ago (good service on this) and put it in Saturday. The decoder install is a 10 minute job basically. But of course is just dropping the decoder in. I already had the time consuming part done earlier, milling the frame for the speaker. This time it fired right up and ran with sound. I changed the bell and the horn to a different one in DecoderPro and will go back later probably with the LokProgrammer and tweak some of the other settings. The momentum is a fair bit stronger that what I have on my other locos but running it now for some time like it that way. Probably a lot more realistic and makes you pay a little more attention to what you are doing. Shot a video of the loco and the new WiTcontroller throttle I built. Actually built a second one after Peter changed the software so that you can make the case function buttons connect directly to the ESP32 inputs. This simplifies wiring over what I had to do on the first one. Will probably change it over to being wired like this one. Probably a 30 minute job. I can't stress how cool this throttle is now. Peter is adding features all the time like he did and is still doing to EngineDriver for Android phones. You can now run up to 6 locos or consists at the same time with the throttle and toggle through them. I now also adds all the labels to the functions of whichever loco you are running. You save the labels in DecoderPro for the loco (easy & quick to do). You add the loco to the throttle off the roster that shows on the screen and can toggle and select any of the 28 functions via the keypad in seconds. Very nice and something I liked on the phone throttle that this throttle now has. Can't really see using the phone throttle much anymore. All of this for $50 in a throttle you can build. OK on to the video of the E9/throttle combination.... . and a video running 3 locos if you didn't see it... Sumner
No it sees the available networks at the moment and displays them with numbers in front of them. You push the number of the one you want to connect to. In my case JMRI on a Raspberry Pi. I've put the password in so I don't need to do that each time. The layout is in the shop on the other side of the kitchen wall about 30 feet away. If I turn the throttle on in the house closer to the home network it will come up with it as #0 and JMRI #1 and then actually sees a couple at my commercial building that is leased out and near the house. Sees their networks #2, #3, etc.. The house is #0 since I'm closer to that router at the computer. If I go out to the layout I'm closer to the Pi with JMRI on it and it comes up #0, house is #1 and the other ones are higher numbers. As soon as I hit #1 in the house or #0 at the layout it connects. Just timed it and from the time I turn the throttle on to the time I'm selecting a loco is only 12 seconds. It seems to have good range. I can do anything with the track power and a loco in the house at the computer that I can out at the layout. If I put a $30 camera on it (have one I watch the printer out there with). I could sit at the computer and run trains out there. If you were at say a show and people were using multiple WiFi hot-spots to run their layouts there they would show on the throttle's display with their network names. You'd select the one you wanted and then connect if you had the password. The throttle has lots of options/features that I haven't even mentioned. If you have used/use EngineDriver you are running his software. Of course not the same as the throttles are different. Sumner
I had a Kato P42 that gave me fits. Tried two different decoders, same issue. So, I started looking really closely at the connections. Even though I soldered the motor connection, I figured out that the circuit board was slightly curved, not much but enough to break contact. The guys at NCE suggested adding a small solder bump to the bronze springs. I did this, it worked for a while. Pushing on the shell made the contact... So, I put a bit of sponge in the shell to apply pressure to the board- worked for a while, then same issue. Gave up and hardwired the power strips to the decoder. Works fine now.
For the P42 there is a rear clip that has to secure the decoder down so it make the proper power contact. Many people overlook this when installing the decoder. The circuit board should not be curved if installed correctly. The board typically curves if you miss that rear clip. Place the board down and push back so it "clicks" into the clip and then solder the motor contacts.
