I'm planning to pick up a Digitrax Zephyr system this weekend. In my current stable is one LifeLike GP-38-2, two LL GP-18, and one GP-20 coming (from their current Winter sale). All of these are not their P2K line and I paid about $20 each. Yes, not exactly Atlases or Katos but these are used my 3 year old (yes! you should see him handle the throttle - better than me!). Anyway, I've read on many forums that LL (non-P2K) and DCC don't mix, but why? No one has ever stated why they don't mix? Is it lack of interior space? Tricky electricals? What is it? I'm an engineer with mean soldering and mechanical skills. Is it feasible for me to DCC the above locos by getting my Dremel out or will I be wasting my time? Thanks for you input!
See the attached web site for instructions on placing decoders in these engines. http://www.trainweb.org/nrmrc/dcc/conversions.html
Since I added decoders to my LL GP38s, the pickup has significantly been diminished - I plan on adding copper strips to the existing pickups to see if that remidies the problem. If not, mine will be for sale for at cost if you'd like to try your hand at them.
MK, I'm familiar only with the GP-20. It's not a difficult conversion in terms of taking the loco apart and putting it back together. You do have to mill the frame--I didn't have to do this, because these were going under Bachmann F-7 shells, which have plenty of space (I mounted the decoder on the side, so I could put a weight on the top). My "problems" were keeping everything oriented properly, and making a little space for my own way of doing things. It's very important that the plastic motor cradle goes back in just as it came out. It won't fit the other ways, but can lead to some frustration, as these other ways are a "near fit." I did not follow the website's advice to remove the tabs on the brushes, as I've always had problems getting brushes reseated correctly. Instead, I soldered to the tabs, and ground out a little bit of space in the motor cradle, so that there would be no compression on the brushes and armature. I used one light board, shorn of everything, to establish rail power (red and black wires), and completely isolatedthe other light board for the front light (blue and white). The last one took me about forty minutes, working slowly and carefully. I used a TCS M1 decoder.
Thank you for your input Peter. Looks like the GP-20 is a good candidate from LL. Mine should be arriving any day now from their Winter sale ($17). Now what to do about the GP-18s and GP-38, all LL........
