I posted this in another place but thought it would make a good new topic so here it goes: I have a problem with the E7 and SD-7's un-godly deep wheel flanges, with that razor sharp edge they derail on my turnouts near a corner, or on corners that aren't perfect. (I know, don't put a turnout on a corner) any Ideas on changing the wheels, I tried removing the middle set on each truck, it helped a little. Also, the gauge was off a little, but still not as smooth as my Kato or Atlas. Home: www.tunnel13.com layout: SP's Newberg Branch in N scale ------------------ espee2
Which turnouts are you using? And through which leg are you experiencing problems? Also, have the wheelsets been checked for gauge? The one's I had were narrow of gauge out of the box. Gary. ------------------ Gary A. Rose The Unofficial TC&W page N to the Nth degree!
Where on the curves are your turnouts? Is it always the same turnout where the derailments are happening? If you have a curve that leads into the points end of a turnout, you will always have trouble at that spot. Always have a short straight section between the end of a curve and a turnout. If nothing else make an easement between a curve and a tturnout. You should always try to have an easement between a curve section and a straight section of track anywhere. Check your wheel gauge with a NMRA metal gauge. This way you will know that it's in gauge ------------------ Let's Go Run Trains MARK
I don't have a gauge, but I made them the same as my Kato's, they were off, but is there a way to replace the wheels for better ones? I only have problems with my Life Like, I have 4-5 katos and 8 Atlas and none of them ever have any problems, not even my Dash-9 ..it's those deep flanges on the life like,I'm sure www.tunnel13.com ------------------ espee2
Get an NMRA standards guage to start. You may be compounding two separate proplems. First the turnout's position relative to the curve. (Possibly a compound curve too} and a good possibility that the wheelsets are out of guage. Most engines have a split axle with a nonconducting gear or spacer for electrical reasons (prevents a dead short through the axle) readjusting the wheels on this s easy but you need a guage to do it correctly. A guage will be easier and far cheaper than new axles. But if you wnt new axles and wheels call Lifelike at 1 800 638 1470 ask for part No. 571065 wheel and axle set (2 geared 1 plain) shipping is $5.00 plus the cost of the part(s)
Time to trash my SDs again! There is another problem I had on the HUGE list. Yes, almost all of the ones I have bothered measuring (not throwing in the shop) were out of gauge. One of my 11 year old freinds used a Kato set to replace the LL ones, so it can't be overly hard. He too, however, has replaced his SD7s with SD60s Happy Railroading! Dane N. ------------------ TAMR2860-AKA BC Rail King TAMR2860@Canada.com for TAMR info. To send a general TRAIN! E-Mail send to BCRailKing@Canada.com
My first 'doctored' SD7 works fine ------------------ Alan The perfect combination - BNSF and N Scale! www.ac-models.com Andersley Western Railroad Alan's American Gallery Alan's European Gallery Alan's British Steam Gallery
I used the track plan from "Atlas-nine N scale railroads" the "Atlantic Longhaul Lines" they are all #4 turnouts, I used the atlas "custom" (with caboose throws) It was my first attempt at building, I wish I knew then what I know now. I wish I had used Peco turnouts, they have the point cut at a 45° (?) I saw them at a RR show, a club had them on their layout. do they coe with the point like that, or did the club do that? could I do that to my turnouts? ------------------ espee2 Home: www.tunnel13.com layout: SP's Newberg Branch in N scale
Have you tried to file a bevel on the turnout points? I think this was what you were referring to in your last post. this is not hard to do, (easier before the turnout is installed) Simply take a file and bevel the point rails. This will help guide the wheels so the flanges do not "pick the points"
I think you should first look at your track work. If the LLs are running fine everywhere else but on this switch, I think you are asking to do more work by grinding or changing out the "offending deep flanges". Relay the track and make sure it's right. It will save you more time and expence than the other options. ------------------ RAILROADING-TO-THE-MAX, Burlington Northern/Santa Fe Style! Brent Tidaback, Member #234
Have you checked that the track is flat and level - i.e. that the cross-level does not change at the switch area, as this would cause the flange to override the rail. If the wheel derails at the same spot each time, it could be that the rail dips a bit at that point. Just a thought, as my friend had the same problem. ------------------ Alan The perfect combination - BNSF and N Scale! www.ac-models.com Andersley Western Railroad Alan's American Gallery Alan's European Gallery Alan's British Steam Gallery
