Since I'm getting ready to build my new layout (in HO), and it'll be the largest by far that I've tackled, I'm curious to hear the construction methods people use. It'll also be much more "up-scale" than what I've done in the past so as to maximize reliability and operational flexibility. I tend to operate the heaviest locomotives possible. I've added as much as 12-14 ounces of lead to an Athearn diesel, and I'm itching to get some cast articulated steamers. My coal trains carry full loads of real coal. I really don't want anything to move under the loads, as I know it'd cause all sorts of grief if it does. Here's what I was thinking, and let me know if I'm all messed up or what..... Yes, I KNOW that I'm mentally ill, but my trains help to keep the scawy demons away.... :-D Benchwork: Permanently installed 2X4 construction 16" on center with 1/2" plywood screwed to the top deck. Strong enough to climb on if needed. Elevated track: 1/2" plywood supported on 2X4 risers every 16" Risers to be glued and nailed in place with finish nails. Foam: Entire layout to be overlaid with 1" blue foam glued in place prior to laying track or cork bed for sound deadening. Trackwork: Code 83 Atlas flex track. Peco #6 and #8 turnouts on continuous-running tracks, and Atlas #4 turnouts for the yard. 28" radius curves "standard", with 56" radius easements for the first 12" of a curve. Questions: 1. How thick a bed can tortoise switch machines operate through when used with Peco switches? How about Atlas dual-coil switch machines? I plan on using "snap" switch machines in the yard, and tortoise machines on all sidings. 2. Is 1" foam needed for sound deadening, or can I drop down to 1/2" foam and get the same noise-canceling results? 3. Should I go to 3/4" plywood on all elevated track for added stiffness? Is every 16" too much for supporting 1/2" plywood? How far can I span out with 3/4" plywood? I'm guessing that the heavier plywood would also help to keep the trackwork elevation transitions smooth. 4. What tools do you use when building the layout? Anything specialized or "nice" that you snuck past the CFO? Any comments will be appreciated. Mark in Utah
You should buy a copy of Model Railroading with John Allen. Look on ebay for a copy as they do not publish it anymore. It will give you lots of ideas from the master. I'm building a layout myself and should of bought the book 3 months ago. I did at least use open frame construction with cardboard strip and plaster cloth for the scenery. I only used plywood sheets for my switch yard and roundhouse areas. I used 3/4 inch boards for straight sections elevated on pieces of wood attached to the frame and 1/2 inch plywood on curves. My roadbed is the standard cork. John Allen used 3/4 inch plywood and 1/2 homasote. I can see why he did that, less supports are required, but then his curves were much bigger than mine. I tried the blue styrofoam in some areas for hills but its more work than the cardboard plaster method. I started using code 100 track and its almost too late to switch to code 83. Code 83 is the way to go if your a perfectionist. Its more expensive but looks better. Hope this helps.
