Layout base

mack Dec 11, 2001

  1. mack

    mack New Member

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    I would appreciate some comments relative to plywood thickness for use as the base on a N gauge layout - I have read articles recommending various thicknesses mainly from 1/2 inch to 1/4 inch .... I'm going to use plywood with cookie cut out sections ... help, I'm a weekend warrior.....
     
  2. NSCALEMIKE

    NSCALEMIKE TrainBoard Member

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    I would go with the good quality plywoow, 1/2 inch.


    Mike
     
  3. Craig Martyn

    Craig Martyn TrainBoard Member

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    For a heavy duty layout I would say half inch plywood, but for smaller layouts (not double deck, not double track main line, etc.) I would use 1/4" plywood.
     
  4. Telegrapher

    Telegrapher Passed away July 30, 2008 In Memoriam

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    Mack. I agree with Mike. My first N layout was built on 3/4 plywood. It was to heavy and to thick. My new layout will be L Girder with styrafoam.
     
  5. Grantha

    Grantha TrainBoard Member

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    <blockquote>quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by Telegrapher:
    Mack. I agree with Mike. My first N layout was built on 3/4 plywood. It was to heavy and to thick. My new layout will be L Girder with styrafoam.<hr></blockquote>

    I strongly concur with this. Having built layouts using 3/4, 1/2 inch plywood and particle board (stay away from this stuff), I must say that 1.5 inch styrofoamat a minimum is the was to go. 1/4 inch stuff will sag regardless of how it is supported and you will be very disappointed with it.
     
  6. friscobob

    friscobob Staff Member

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    My layout was built using 1x4s and 3/8" plywood for the benchwork, and 2"blue foam atop that. The foam is cemented to the benchwork.
     
  7. HemiAdda2d

    HemiAdda2d Staff Member TrainBoard Supporter

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    Bob,
    How well does 3/8" ply work? I was going to use a 1/4" over a 1x4 frame, with 2 diagonal braces underneath, with 2" foam on top. How well do you guys think this will work? Should I step up to 1/2 or 3/8? Also, will OSB *wafer-plywood* work? Should I otherwise get the real deal plywood? I am looking for strength, and light weight. Inexpensive is a biggie, too.
     
  8. Nathan Erwin

    Nathan Erwin TrainBoard Member

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    Like friscobob said, I also used 3/8" (or 11/32", whatever Lowe's had) for the top, but I used 1"x3" for the frame (I was willing to take the time to find the non-warped boards for the cheaper price).

    Mine is built as NTrak modules, and it's nice and sturdy. The 2'x4' modules have braces in the middle, 16" on center (like wall studs for a house!). In fact, one module is missing a cross brace, but it doesn't bow at all.

    I just used 1 1/2" drywall screws to put the frame together, then screwed the plywood to the top of the frame (yes, I've got the typical "plywood plains" layout). I did pre-drill the holes to minimize splitting.
    If you want to use the foam, make sure it's well supported, no matter how thick it is. Remember, it was not designed to handle weight horizontally by itself (like 3/4" plywood).

    Also, be careful about using oriented strand board (OSB), or worse yet, particle board. Both of these are made from leftovers that were glued together. IMHO, OSB is better than particle board, which turns to mush if it gets wet, but I prefer standard plywood (true, it's glued together too, but each layer is solid wood).
    Unfortunately, I found that the lumber and hardware have been the cheapest part of the hobby so far... [​IMG]
     
  9. mack

    mack New Member

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    Bob:

    I like your approach to my problem .... where did you get your 2" blue foam board? I'm planning to use the 1" X4" framing, with plywood cover and foam on top of the plywood ... type of glue for attaching foam to plywood?
     
  10. HemiAdda2d

    HemiAdda2d Staff Member TrainBoard Supporter

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    Acrylic liquid Nails should do the job nicely, and You can get 2" foam at almost any DIY home center.
     
  11. mdrzycimski

    mdrzycimski TrainBoard Supporter

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    <blockquote>quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by HemiAdda2d:
    ..... and You can get 2" foam at almost any DIY home center.<hr></blockquote>

    As long as you live up North (cold climates) (or South if you come from the Southern Hemisphere). In warmer climates, foam insulation board only comes in 1/2", 3/4" and 1" if you are lucky to find it. It can be obtained from insulation dealers but may be a special order. Thus the price will go up accordingly.

    If the foam is supported with plywood, you can stack thinner pieces to get the thickness you need. Just glue together with yellow wood glue or latex construction adhesive.
     
  12. HemiAdda2d

    HemiAdda2d Staff Member TrainBoard Supporter

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    Good catch, Mike.
    Not only do I live up north, I live in North Dakota.... One of the coldest places you could inhabit on this side of the globe, other than the North and South Poles....

    ANYwas, temp. extremes of 200 degrees are commonplace here, from summer to winter. They should have 3" foam here! [​IMG]
     
  13. ROMAFERN

    ROMAFERN TrainBoard Member

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    Mack,
    I use 2 inch insu foam glued to 1x4s. E-mail me if you want to see some pics...No plywood used.

    Rob
     
  14. HemiAdda2d

    HemiAdda2d Staff Member TrainBoard Supporter

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    R,
    Do you have sag problems? How wide is your benchwork? I'm buildingmine w/ 1/2" OSB with 1x4's screwed/glued, and 2" foam glued on top. Should be super strong. Also will be using 1x3's for 48" legs. Being built to take a beating, and live to fight another day :D
     
  15. RidgeRunner

    RidgeRunner TrainBoard Member

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    One of my layout attempts was built on two half inch thick layers of blue foam, glued to 1x3s. This seemed like a nice setup, and it's probably what I'll use in the future. It's especially good for layouts which keep the track mostly on one level, or don't have staging yards underneath the scenery. If there's much hidden track under the scenery, I'd suggest 3/4 inch ply only as wide as the right-of-way, and wire screen/plaster cloth in between that and the edge of the layout.
     

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