Does anyone have a Main Street type seen with a main line or spur running through it? If so please post pics, these really intrigue me and I'd like to do one in our lay out so if you have any pointers on how to do it please share!
Tomix makes Code 80 street tracks and conversion kits for is Mini Fine Tracks. The conversion kits come in a brick pattern and a smooth/concrete surface. With only the rail top showing the code 80 height is not visible. The Wide Tram Tracks are part of the Mini Fine series that is used as streetcar track by many. The curves come in three radius, 103mm(4 in), 140mm (5.5 in) and 177mm (7 in). They also make a 140mm radius switch. The conversion kits contain parts for the curves, straights, switches and 90° crossing. Tomix tracks can connect easily to any code 80 track. The Kato "Snap Track" adapter was made specific ally to join the two brands together. Tomix now makes a battery powered bus system that is similar to the Faller system that can integrate with the Wide Tram Track. The Atlas MP15DC will negotiate the 103mm curves. Many others will make it through the 140mm ones. But Main street is usually straight. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c7sTIRe6sOo
One of the best recent examples of street running I can recall is Dave N's Modesto scene. I think he started a thread on this specific topic, but I haven't been able to find it... Dave? -Gary
Although not as finished as Dave's scene or the scene in the video yet, I'm doing this through my town. I used Smooth-It from Woodland Scenics for the asphalt in the first photo..... N scale street trackage in patched concrete and asphalt highway. Patched effect inspired by the City Edge layout in HO scale. Smooth-It from Woodland Scenics used for the concrete and asphalt here too.... The toughest part of this method is clearing the flangeways so they work and look right. This is something that needs to be done at just the right time as the Smooth-It is setting up. Do it too early, you get a gooey mess. Do it too late, you can't get the flangeways cleared very well without a lot of extra work. I use an old set of trucks that I run back and forth to start a groove in the flangeways. Then I use the edge of some (correct-width) sheet styrene to finish it. I love street trackage and am planning to install more behind the downtown buildings and in another industrial area on the other side of the mainline. Russ
That is very nice looking street trackage. I noticed the pavement is pretty think, and I wonder how well this WS Smooth-it would hold up, on a portable module that gets moved and transported quite a bit. I'm afraid any flexing of the module..would crack the pavement.
Russ, Would you please tell us what method you used to paint and detail your roads? They look great! John
Nice scenes, Russ and sd90ns!! Russ, you're street looks fantastic! I used vinyl spackle for my road (I think it's pretty similar to the WS stuff) that I bought at Home Depot. Vinyl spackle doesn't crack or shrink like regular spackle. And, like Russ mentioned, the trick is clearing the flangeways. Timing is everything like he says. I've got mine to where a single GP9 or SW can creep down the street smoothly - most of the time. I'm still looking for a good way to clean the track easily without buggering up the road. Russ, any tips there?
I know this information is to late for you guys who have already done your streets. The traction books recommend that the street surface be below the top of the rails. They suggest using a plastic scree card with notches cut out for the tops of the rails. Many street rail systems use brick or large blocks between and around the rails to make maintenance easier. Outside the brick could be concrete or asphalt. This also marked a "Safety Zone" showing how wide the railroad equipment was so motorists could avoid collisions. I have a video of the Chicago Surface Lines demonstrating the importance of the Safety Zone by parking a car in the middle of the tracks. Then they drove one streetcar past each side of the car. After the streetcars passed, the car was only two feet wide. Smushed vehicle are a common thing on street running. Somehow drivers think their car or truck will survive contact with a train. A common method is to fit plastic sheet for the streets and between the rails. much safer for the locos as the plaster dust may destroy the motor in your locomotive. Plus its reversible or repairable. If something goes wrong with the track on a street made with any plaster/filler/putty surface you have to destroy the whole thing to fix it. A definite reason to avoid switches in the street. Brick, cobblestone and smooth sheets can be used. A skeleton of supports will build the surface jut below the top of the rail. Another material is mat board it comes in different colors and some textures. Easy to cut and runs cheaper than plastic.
