Hello. I have a potential problem with my track. For years I was in > HO >> and now I have changed to N scale. I am using Midwest Products track > cord >> roadbed and Atlas 2500 code 80 flextrack. I am gluing the track to > the >> roadbed using a super glue that is pretty good. However, I have > noticed >> in a couple of places that the track is breaking loose and bowing on > me >> causing me to reglue it. This never happened to me with my HO > layouts. I >> have not begun to ballast the track yet. My layout is going to have >> several mountains and tunnels so I can ill afford to have the track > coming >> loose and bowing under them. My layout is in the basement but it is >> fairly dry although a friend suggested that I keep the dehumifier > running >> to make sure the moisture is not in the air. I need your > recommendations. >> Thanks and blessings to you... Steve
ACC dries hard and unyielding to expansion or contraction. I suggest when laying the cork roadbed to leave a minute expansion joint which the ballast will hide. With the flextrack I would suggest using a tacky type glue safe for the plastic that does not set firm when you need to glue a section, and also to secure the cork roadbed, and use track spikes (small nails) that fit in the predrilled hole every so often in the section of flextrack, and where needed to secure cork roadbed. Do not nail too firmly or you will distort the ties and rail. Every so often leave a small space between track sections for expansion to occur. The power gap can be bridged by using small jumper wires to connect across the gap, run from underneath the layout, and then soldered to the respective ends. Solder low and to the outside of the rails to avoid contact with wheel flanges. Something like a .015 by .030 styrene strip or even a .010 strip will give space for expansion. A too damp basement or other area can wreck havoc with benchwork. so a dehumidifier is a good suggestion. Some woods and some composite materials can act like a sponge in damp air and swell enough to distort something. Sealing wood surfaces can also help as long as the wood is good and dry before applying a sealant. Applying a good paint coat can accomplish that, and if you use a color that is close to the natural soils it provides a good base cover if a ground cover wears a little thin somewhere. Also if you are going to use any plaster for terrain again the sealing prevents the subbase from warping.
I too use Atlas 2500 Code 80 flex track and Midwest cork road bed on top of pink foam. I used 100% latex chaulk for gluing cork to foam and then track to cork. Like John said, I use T-pins (Walmart) that secure the track where there are holes. Once dried I pull the pins out. The layout is over two years old in a fairly well climate controlled basement and the tracks are on solid!
Steve and all tuned in, I don't think you mentioned what you're sub-roadbed is. If it's foam you may need a CA specifically made for foam. If your base is wood then the following will apply. I use CA "Cyanoacrylate" Gap Filling, to secure my N-scale track and it's been where I scrimped that the track pulled up "bowing" as you put it. Not to worry. Check the alignment and then re-glue placing a weight on the track. Once it's dried, it's not likely to give you anymore trouble. I've experimented with other glues and found them to be flexible, yielding a bit to much. The only glue that has satisfied me is the CA. Incidentally my layout sees extreme temperatures from the the teens to the 100's, on occasion. There is all kinds of potential for contraction during the cold season and expansion during the hot summer months. The areas I've had problems with are the areas I got chency. Actually, I ran out of CA and had to wait until my budget allowed for another purchase. The secret is the CA, needs to soak clear through the center of the cork roadbed to the wood. Otherwise, the track will float around on top of the cork roadbed causing said problem. All the more reason to glue the cork roadbed in place. I hope that makes sense. Have fun!
Woodland Scenic Foam Tack is what I use for everything when laying track. It is similar to the caulks, but has the advantage of being very thin (undulations are bad) and can be loosened by applying very warm water for 15 minutes. It works so well that I have stopped using rail joiners on my flex track.
