Four of us helped someone put in some gently curving passing and industrial sidings on a friend's layout this evening using flex track. I was surprised when someone asked the layout owner whether he wanted the loose rail of the flex track on the inside or the outside and the owner replied that it didn't matter. I have always assumed the loose rail should go on the inside of the curve because, as you bend the flex track, the loose inside rail will slide out longer and away from the end tie while the fixed outside rail will stay the same place with respect to the end tie. Then all you have to do is cut the longer rail. If you bend the flex track so the loose rail is on the outside, then you will have to cut off the fixed inside rail AND several ties to give yourself a square cut across the end of the curved track. Was this general knowledge to most of you laying flex track? Or should we put this (and some pictures) into the How To Forum as a sweet trick to ease laying flex track curves?:tb-biggrin:
Everyone knows you leave the solid side inside and use a rail stretcher to pull the outside rail out to the end!:tb-wink: You know I kept cutting it and cutting it and it's still too short! Okay, seriously, it should be common knowledge but it isn't unless you look at it critically, so yes, it should go into the how-to forum. It may save someone the price of a few lengths of flextrack.
Sliding rail... Hmmm... Well that depends on the manufacturer. With Peco flexi-track it dosen't matter as both rails can slide. If you look at the underside of the rail you will notice that the plastic ties are gapped alternatetly both sides, whereas Atlas flexi-track the plastic ties are gapped one side only. So when bending Atlas flexi-track it is best to have the gapped ties facing inward and allow the inside rail to slideout then trim
A good model railroader should know the answer to this. I'm going with Cleggie; I think he is correct. The purpose of putting the gapped ties on the "correct" side is to keep from narrowing the track gauge as you bend it to make tight curves. If you have only large, sweeping curves, I don't think it will matter as far as the track gauge goes. I have used the old Atlas code 80 and the gauge did decrease (slightly) on some of the curves that my club constructed, but I am not positive of the reason. I presume it was because I put the gapped ties on the wrong side.
I have to admit. I have never even thought about this. I am on my second (HO) layout. My curves are about 22" min. Most are 24" to 30". I have used Walthers Code 83 in all open areas w/ Code 100 Atlas where under cover/hidden. I usually solder two pieces of track together and put in the center most portion of the curve arc. Then I use single sections to work my way out of the curve. Trimming the rail and piecing it together as I go. Never have had one problem or had the track warp out of scale. Plus I couldn't tell you whether the gapped rail was in or not. Dang. Now I'm scared to check my track!
Curves When bending flex track I have the gapped side on the inside of the curve. If the curve is longer than three feet then I solder the sections before installing the track. Don't remove more than two ties from the end of the flex track when sliding on the railjoiners. Removing ties can lead to gauge problems. It is better to remove the web between the ties and slide them back to allow for the rail joiners. Keep the ties removed and remove the clips that hold the rail. These ties can be glued under the rails to fill in where ties were removed.
With broad radius curves (I use 27" radius in N scale), I don't think it matters which side the sliding rail goes although I normally put the sliding rail to the inside. I have wondered about this procedure as I had some 15" radius on the old layout and the gauge seemed to be tight. I had to take the Dremel tool the inside of the rail to fix the problem. When laying flex track on a curve, if you have to join two pieces, you need to solder the ends together while the track that is being nailed down is still straight for a couple of inches. After the next section of track is joined and soldered, then bend it into position. Glenn
I've found that the rail joiners on Atlas C55 track are strong enough to eliminate the need for soldering on broad curves above 15" radius. This wasn't the case with C80 rail. I still solder the joints, as it doesn't take much time.
It has always been my understanding when bending Flex Track, that the sliding rail must always be on the inside of the curve (closest to the center of your layout plan).
Hey guys, here's an aspect no one has brought up about all this: There is a visual consideration I give it..The prototype has in many places along the trackside areas where there is space between the bottom of the rail and the top of the ballast..The slidable-rail side of the flex(Atlas anyway)has some spaces like this (no filler between ties, allowing ties to bunch or spread on a curve). I,when possible place track section so as to have this side the most visible when finally viewed in place..This most the time is the rail furthest from me. And especially if it will be super-elevated(banked) as the higher rail. In other words,as one gazes across the track at an angle one can much times see sunlight below rail, between ties on the prototype..So I have this in mind when laying flex. I.E. to keep openings between ties visible..This of course is always easy to do with tangent (straight) sections.
Sliding rail inside for me... After laying over 50 mainline feet of it, not to mention staging, helix and sidings...
Glenn: What engines were you running on the 15" radius track that seemed to be too tightly gauged? I've 2 industrial sidings with 14" radius that seemed to slow down an already slow moving SD-##, but not my slow moving SWs. I figured it was because the longer 3 axle truck was getting pinched on the tight curve while the 2 axle truck was not. Since I don't normally run an SD in that area, it's not a concern. All 4 of my spiral helixes use flex track. I have 15.5 to 15.75 inch radius at the bottom of 2 but the curve is only that tight for a fraction of the arc and increases continually to 17 inches in one loop. I've never noticed any gauge issues with any of my locos (SDs, GPs, SWs, and 1 Berkshire) in the helixes except where I cut off the ties too far back at a join, and that gauge problem was remedied immediately and easily by supergluing the rails at the proper gauge. I wonder if the truck length on tight radii is more of an issue than track gauge. Whoa! I just measured a piece of Atlas flex track bent with the loose rail inside and with the loose rail outside... If I'm reading my cheapo calipers correctly (it's been over 40 years since my dad showed me how), it was 9.6 mm either way. And in the interests of full disclosure, I should also say this was on curves of 17 inches and 13 inches, and my Micro-Trains coupler/track gauge slipped onto the rails perfectly. (Hmmmm....I always thought N-Scale was 9.0 mm.) Someone else please reproduce this test with Atlas Code 80 Flex track (SuperFlex, where only one rail slides easily and the track springs back to straight unless held in the curved position) to confirm my results.
IIRC the prototype widens the gauge on tight curves, so not widening it will have the same effect as narrowing it on a straight(er) section. Probably
Dave, The primary engine was an old Arnold 0-6-0 with a MT 2-6-0 conversion. I had trouble with both them on the tight curve up the the branch line, but no problems else where. Alas that layout is gone and the two engines are on there last legs and not worth converting to DCC, so they will not be a problem in the future. Glenn
Dave- Are the measurements from center rail to center rail or inside rail or outside rail and I will also ask- Which is what it is supposed to be.
It is supposed to be inside gauge, it's the only measurement that matters. NMRA track gauge for N scale is 8.97 mm, 0.353"
Hey guys, am I alone with my idea in #12 above? Am interested if anyone but anyone else does this ,too. Surely I can't be the first !..Also, a couple years back there was some HO Atlas flex which had BOTH rails slidable..I thought it was some boot leg stuff..So I phoned Atlas and they said it was a failed experiment...ties were a tad thicker..anyone get any of this issue ?
IMHO, this is a minor point and I do not attempt to model it. I prefer to have the ballast even with the top of the ties (and even with the bottom of the rail - N scale) as I thought this was the desired level of ballast on the prototype. If it is something that you like, I would model it that way.
