Kato F7 MT Conversion Updated

Tom Hynds Dec 1, 2005

  1. Tom Hynds

    Tom Hynds TrainBoard Member

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    First lemme say these parts are Waaaaay too small to be screwing around with at 1130 at night!

    Taking this loco apart was one of the scariest things I have done in a while...

    Looking at the instructions it says in step 6 :confused: "Trim original spring post to allow the 1128 adapter to slip into draft gear box. Do not trim more than is needed as this post will help retain adapter until adhesive sets."

    So how much to trim? It looks like I'll need to take most of the post off any way just so the adapter will fit.
    Do I saw it off with a no. 11 blade? or what?


    In step 14 it says to apply a small amount of "Walthers Goo"

    Is anything a reasonable substitute for "Walthers Goo"? Or do I need to make a trip to LHS to get some? [​IMG]

    [ December 01, 2005, 04:33 PM: Message edited by: Tom Hynds ]
     
  2. Flash Blackman

    Flash Blackman TrainBoard Member

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    Are these first run engines?

    "Trim" the spring post means cut it off. You can't go back to the rapidos after that.

    Walthers Goo is probably best. Goodyear Pliobond is similar. Aileen's Glue (Michael's-scrapbook stuff) might work. Gap ACC might work, too, with judicious amounts, carefully applied.

    All this from memory on the original run engines. The pilot coupler was the worst as you had to cut the shell. Hope this helps.
     
  3. Tom Hynds

    Tom Hynds TrainBoard Member

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    Flash - Thanks - just what I was looking for...And guess what I have one of the original run engines - I think...

    Is that what Bob talks about when he says to use a "Z" Coupler? Could be mounted without cutting the shell?
     
  4. Flash Blackman

    Flash Blackman TrainBoard Member

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    A Z coupler is smaller and looks better. These original runs used a screw to mount the front coupler. A Z scale coupler would be easy to substitute and might not require cutting. It might be easier to mount. (The pilot hole is cut at the bottom to enlarge it to accept the N scale coupler.)
     
  5. Powersteamguy1790

    Powersteamguy1790 Permanently dispatched

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    Tom:

    You can easily use a MT Z scale coupler on the Kato F-7. It certainly would look more prototypical than an N scale coupler.

    You might try a MT #2004-1 on the front coupler on the pilot if you want an N scale coupler. You can use Unimates on the rear coupler.


    Stay cool and run steam....... [​IMG] :cool: :cool:
     
  6. Tom Hynds

    Tom Hynds TrainBoard Member

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    Well, I must say that went well...

    Until the very last when I cracked the pilot. [​IMG] It's cracked really good too!

    I don't think I can repair it and the coupler is off at a really odd angle.

    Now I'll eventually need to score a new shell for that, I suppose. But the rear coupler works and is actually at the right height and everything. But it couples to the coupler height checker thingie!
     
  7. Flash Blackman

    Flash Blackman TrainBoard Member

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    Is it cracked where the screw goes in at the top or split at the bottom?
     
  8. Tom Hynds

    Tom Hynds TrainBoard Member

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    It's cracked on either side of the coupler as well as at the bottom. I figure I must've weakened it as I was enlarging the hole in the pilot. [​IMG] But there was no screw. So maybe not a first run eh?

    A learning experience I reckon.

    Does Kato sell shells?
     
  9. Tom Hynds

    Tom Hynds TrainBoard Member

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    As far as I can tell the draft gear clip is interferring with the proper alignment of the coupler.

    The center pin goes through the coupler and the ones on either side should keep the thing aligned but the dang draft gear box is too big and does not fit between these 2 pins.
    [​IMG]

    Can I shave these with a file? Or does one or the other need to just come off.

    Reason I ask is...I think I've done enough damage to this loco as it is. Just wondered if any one had this or similar experience with this model. Not unsalvageable, but the damage is done.
    [​IMG]
     
  10. Big Snooze

    Big Snooze TrainBoard Member

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    Tom

    As an alternative to a new body shell, Sunrise Enterprises sells a cast metal pilot mount plow for E & F units. It is part no. 15208 listed on the Walthers website. I put one of these on an E unit but had to remove the cast pilot in order to do it. Just ACC it on in place of the pilot. Its only about 2 or 3 dollars and might be worth looking at.
     
  11. Powersteamguy1790

    Powersteamguy1790 Permanently dispatched

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    Tom:

    That pilot can be repaired with some care and then repainted.


    Stay cool and run steam..... [​IMG] :cool: :cool:
     
  12. Flash Blackman

    Flash Blackman TrainBoard Member

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    Tom: Now I am confused. I have just looked at my engine and I threw that clip part away. That was what I used the screw for. Maybe this run is more recent.
     
  13. U25B

    U25B TrainBoard Member

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    The MT Kato F conversion has to be one of the if not the most dificult. I was running into the same issues and was on the verge of damaging the model when I gave up and left the rapidos on
     
  14. Tom Hynds

    Tom Hynds TrainBoard Member

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    All, Thanks for the encouragement...

    Flash - there was no screw that came with the set from MT for this loco.

    So, I got the coupler put back together. Really glad I got that coupler jig at this point. It was like an extra pair of hands.

    Then I filed on those two posts until the coupler fit in between them. The coupler is in. Albiet at not quite the right angle, but it is in. I'm inclined to set that one aside for the moment until I get some more installation experience.

    WHAT A JOB!! Jeeeeeeeeeeez....
     
  15. Flash Blackman

    Flash Blackman TrainBoard Member

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    I think you gained some experience this day! Congrats!! [​IMG] [​IMG]
     
  16. Tom Hynds

    Tom Hynds TrainBoard Member

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    Yeah. I think so too.

    The B unit ought to be a breeze...
     
  17. okane

    okane TrainBoard Supporter

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    Tom

    Iread your post with interest. I tried a while back and endded up close to the same position. I then broke down and gave it to the LHS who charged me $8.00 to replaxe the offending couplet with the MT on both ends.
     
  18. Tom Hynds

    Tom Hynds TrainBoard Member

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    Okane,
    The rear coupler was not hard to do. The one on the front end MORE than made up for it!
     
  19. okane

    okane TrainBoard Supporter

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    Tom

    It was the frustration of the size of the couplers more than anything else.

    I will watch the spelling a little closer for the next post, boy that is terrible.

    Owen
     
  20. Powersteamguy1790

    Powersteamguy1790 Permanently dispatched

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    Tom:

    You can always re-angle the coupler to get it in the right position.


    Have fun... [​IMG]

    Stay cool and run steam...... [​IMG] :cool: :cool:
     

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