Back when the WVD adapters were introduced, I purchased two of them for future use. Well that future is now. So following are some images of my install with Loksound 5 micro DCC decoder #58828 and speakers. I must say that IMHO these were the simplest installs I have ever done. The KATO chassis are extremely easy to disassemble if need be. The WVD adapter makes adding extra lighting a real breeze. There are 1Kohm resistors on all function pads. Much safer to solder to the adapter as opposed to soldering directly on decoder board. So pull up a cool one! I failed to mention that these are both 2015 production run from KATO. B Unit : Did first cause I did not have to add lighting. If you have not seen inside of the KATO unit, here it is with light board out Here it is with the adapter only sitting on frame Speaker test fit That speaker did not sound good, so I made another. Much better sound. You can see the decoder mounted as well. A Unit : Here is the A unit taken apart, very easy. Motor in cradle front and bare chassis in the rear of image. Why did I take the chassis apart, so I could cut a groove for a larger speaker. Here it is with decoder sitting on top and speaker in place. That's about the sum of it. Below is a short Y-T video demonstrating the sounds. I need to tweak the bell and any comments regarding sounds is welcome. Thanks for looking, be well Carl
Great install, thanks for sharing it. Sounds great to me but I don't have much experience in that area. When you made the larger speaker enclosure for the B unit did you also cut the frame out like you did on the A? Sumner
Carl, a hint on B units - there is plenty of room for an 8x12 speaker and enclosure at the front of the unit. The squared off shell gives one lots of space. We always tend to put the speakers towards the rear, but.....
Sumner, No I did not do any cutting on the b unit for the speaker. You can see a "deep well" on the right end of the white box. That sits on top of the grey keeper on the chassis and then the elongated box sits down on top of the adapter board. Works well but I may try Ricks idea, see post below yours. Thanks for the nice remarks, carl
