I don't have the track, but thinking of a future layout. Say I'm putting in a passing siding using #6 Kato turnouts. What would the center of the main line track be to the center of the siding track be utilizing these turnouts? Also, does it put the track the same distance apart using the double crossover? Thanks.
You might find the links at the bottom of this page helpful: N Track Plans - KATO USA : Precision Railroad Models The links provide information on track spacing with Unitrack turnouts and crossovers. The usual minimum spacing between track centers using a #6 turnout and standard curve sections is 49.5 mm (roughly 2"). John C.
Dave - I believe the #6 will give you a passing siding with the same distance as the double crossover. The annoying thing is that 2 #6s making a single crossover do not make parallel tracks the same distance apart. 2 #4s will.
One passing siding using a # 6 kato turnout will give you the same inter track distance as a double crossover. If you use two # 6 Kato turnouts, the distance between the tracks is much wider than a double crossover. The Kato double crossover is so designed to give you two parallel tracks. I use four double crossovers on the JJJ&E which is a double track mainline.
The centerline spacing when using two #6 turnoutss is 49.5 mm as stated in one reply. The centerline spacing for the double crossover is 33mm. The two #6 turnouts can be trimmed back to achieve the 33mm spacing, but it is a delicate operation.
Dave, I just started a layout with unitrack. For my passing sidings I used a # 6 turnout, with a 20-101, 9 3/4 radius 15 degrees curve going into the siding and a 20-030 64mm straight, on the straight leg of the switch. Been running all my Kato six axle unit though the curve and they run ok. This will give you the 33mm for track spacing.
Caution the following comments are not meant for the beginner. In the wrong hands...my suggestion can destroy a perfectly good switch. You can cut the diverging or curved section back to decrease the track width. I've done this on my layout with some regularity. When cutting the diverging side I use a dremel tool and avoid cutting back into the metal framed area. If you are just starting in the hobby... I'd suggest you avoid cutting the switch. Get some experience or practice first. Try cutting a damaged switch and then if you like the results dig in and get it done.
Nominally, as others have stated, the answer is "no." You apparently can trick the track system by coupling an abnormally sharp return curve with the graceful #6 switch, but if it were me I would rather just have irregular track spacing with the return curve intended for use with the #6. Both the Kato #6 turnouts and the double crossover are N scale marvels. Ultra reliable and truly plug and play. The #4's on the other hand can cause problems due to the way their points engage the rails. There are tune-up proceedures that often help, but for a main line operation I would stick with the others. Have fun!
# 6's are nice but unless the territory you are modeling requires a crossover for more than a 40 mph prototypical speed then # 4's are perfect for a 40 mph crossover. Sure the # 4's need to be "tuned", not hard to do, just a little time and as relieble in the end...hopefully Kato will address this in the future at any rate. The other plus if you want prototype track spacing on mainlines is # 4's give you 33mm or 13 scale feet center to center on mainline, otherwise you have the wide spacing between mains. I myself do not want to attempt destroying an expensive switch in operating on one, but some are, not my cup of tea. Bottom line is different strokes for different folks...go with what you feel works best for your situation...but with Kato the consensus is you can't go wrong... Dave
The rules I've set for my self and my railroad are simple yet effective. #6's or larger switches to be used on the mainline and in the passenger yards or stations. #4's and nothing smaller to be used only in freight yards or industrial sidings off the main line. Minimum main line curve at 15". Yard curves and industrial sidings at 11". Back to the main line: I prefer 18" to 24" main line curves. I've built enough petty tight radius curved layouts and will do anything I can to avoid going back to that era in my life. Oh, it was fun but the trains looked like $#!+ going around the curves. I would encourage you to expand out your curves and switches to larger radii...ASAP!
