Highball makes a variety. Check Feather River Trains. http://www.featherrivertrains.com/c...AcFBAgSEAAA&storeid=1&setSearchBox=searchtext
I'm sure this has been discussed before, but why do most modelers ballast first and then do scenery? Last layout I did where I got to ballasting (quite a few years ago), I completed the scenery and then ballasted. I see a lot of layouts where the scenery and ballast just don't mesh together well...
Tim: I ballast last, but that makes it appear that the track was more recently ballasted. The reverse, ballasting before scenery, is, IMHO, a better technique for track that has a some recent growth or old, overgrown sidings. Depends on what you want to model.
As others have already stated gluing down the ballast is a lot of work requiring the patience of Job. Just remember that alcohol is a necessary ingredient for getting this chore completed. I generally start with three or four shots of Jack Daniel’s then follow it up with another one every ten minutes, or three feet of track, whichever comes first.
There are some great ballasting ideas and descriptions of techniques in this thread!! It will make a good how-to tutorial. Anyone with pics of final results, please post them for inspiration. Like Flash, I ballast last...sometimes years after laying the track and doing most of the scenery. But I use multiple "layers" when doing scenery and detailing an area, and ballast is just one of those layers. Layer 1: I'll use spackling or plaster to contour the surface near the roadbed and make sure I've carved/installed ditches, culverts, bridges, etc where I want them. Layer 2: Paint the ground near the track so the white spackling or gray homasote (or brown plywood) doesn't show through anywhere. Some modelers paint/stain/stress some of their track ties to achieve some variability in appearance, and painting the rails enhances the overall appearance, as well. Layers 3.1, 3.2, 3.3....etc: Add various textures and colors of blended turf and ground foam up to the roadbed. Layer 4: Ballast the track using any of the methods described above. (As some mentioned, it's possible to run a screwdriver or MicroTrains track gauge over the rails to remove the ballast pieces from the inside of the rails to address the mechanical issues related to clearance or gear-clogging debris. An additional ballasting step: To address the electrical issues, in addition to cleaning the top of the rails, consider polishing the inside of the rails with a Brightboy--or a soft wooden stick or rag if you're concerned about abrasive cleaners--because the residual glue itself will hinder electrical contact. Cleaning the inside of the rails maximizes rail surface area available to conduct power and DCC signal to loco wheels by also letting the flanges pick up power/signal whenever they happen to touch the rail.) Layer 5: Touch up the blended turf and ground foam where it meets the ballast. Depending on how "clean" you want your ballast to look, add grass/weeds over the ballast. Layer 6: Add details to the track, roadbed, and nearby ground cover to give the area a "lived in" look. Oil or grim streaks between the rails, different colored ballast around a newly replaced RR tie, scratches on ties showing where equipment dragged, weeds, grass or accumulated dust/dirt that almost covers the rails on less used sidings, piles of ballast (both same and different colors) near and between the tracks, evidence of "leaks" from cars carrying coal or grain or other materials, stacks of new or used ties near the tracks, and various types of debris between or near the tracks. (Less is More! Don't overdo the lived-in look.)
Campp- Perhaps weird, perhaps not. I put it up there with things I don't want to do like experiencing childbirth. ALL- I just received the new July-Aug issue of N Scale Railroading and there is an extensive article with pictures on ballasting. The article seems to make more of a project than is needed, but the idea of a painting pad hand held to smooth out, etc. is one that I will use.
Dave - I hope you don't mind but I'm going to add one more step to your process: Layer 7: Invite Dave over to do layers 1 through 6. Mark - After thinking it over and going through the pros and cons, I guess I too would rather ballast than go through childbirth.
Count me in too. I liken ballasting to painting. A lot of prep-work and boring painting, but after you do the first wall - wow. You see it all come together and it makes it worth all the work.
Thanks to all for your opinions and advice. The "yeas" outweighed the "naes" by 5 to 1. I must confess, the ones that appealed to me the most came from John Bier - Balou Line, Paul - Whoppit, and , IMHO, the best advice from "sd90ns"!!!
My 2 cents worth. I use WS fine ballast and haven't had any problems with it. I spread the ballast with a fan-shaped artist's brush. Then I coat it well with a "wet water" solution, rather than alcohol (cheaper, easier [doesn't dry as fast], less chance of reaction with other stuff on the layout). Next, a liberal dose of scenic cement carefully applied with a syringe. Usually dries within 12 hours, 24 is better. Looks good to me! For those who don't know, "wet water" is simply 2-3 drops of dishwashing liquid detergent in a cup of water, applied with a good fine spray bottle, not too close. Dave.
I did too. What I don't like with the method is shown in photo # 36 on page 37. The entire area is ballasted first then flooded with a wet water/glue mixture to ensure the mixture penetrates to the bottom of the ballast. There are four turnouts in the picture that also are flooded. This is a far too sloppy method and is I think the principal reason why people ballast first. Wonder if those turnouts are a bit stiff?
BTW- As long as we are talking about ballasting, how about rail painting techniques- other than by hand after everything is laid? I will be doing at least 400 sections.
I have painted rails with a rattle can before ballasting, black permanent markers after ballasting, and paint pens of various colors before and after ballasting. I prefer the paint pens for the various colors, but it is tedious. Usually that is also a part of hand painting ties, too, and that is usually in sidings. I think the best track technique, overall, that I have used is airbrushing the track, ballast, ties and all with a light dusting of grimy black, mostly down the center. It really ties it all together.
I have found that over the years, I take much less time as I learn short cuts. I don't mind ballasting much any more. Even painting and weathering track seems to take less time and be less tedious. Once the intimidation factor is gone, I don't mind it all.
Probably the 2nd most important ingredient, (after a good red wine), would be good music or companionship while working on it.
I'm late to this thread, and don't have time to read all the posts. Here are my observations: ballast is not necessary, but it sure adds to the realism. If you use ballast, you have to glue it down. I find the traditional methods of laying ballast don't work for me. They create too much mess, and too much cleanup. I hate picking loose strands of ballast off the rails! So, after I've glued the track down, I ballast only the center section, between the rails. I do this lightly, so that the top of the ties are always visible. Then I spray and glue, always trying to pick off any stray particles before the glue sets. When this has dried, I ballast the outside of the rails, usually rather copiously. Then I spray and glue. I find this looks better than trying it all in one pass. It also goes a lot quicker, as clean up is much easier. Besides, who's gonna see that the ballast between the ties is a little low? In five years, no one!
