I Play Hookey from Work! T Gauge Today!

rray Aug 4, 2008

  1. solo_clipper

    solo_clipper TrainBoard Member

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  2. HoboTim

    HoboTim TrainBoard Supporter

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    Take a Little Weight Off Your Feet!!!

    Ben,

    At first I used a Dremel, with a small grinding disc, to cut into the part of the tungsten weight where it is semi crimped onto the motor shaft.

    Now I said semi crimped. After cutting into the shaft of about the first 10 motors I tried to pull the weight off the shaft with a pair of pliers. Well, ever since I just use a plier/screw driver to remove the weight. Pulls right off. Has little resistance. All motors work fine. Never had a bad one from pulling the weight off. Awesome little buggers!!!! These are true blue 3 pole motors, not low voltage coreless!!!!!

    Hope this helps!

    Hobo Tim
     
  3. HoboTim

    HoboTim TrainBoard Supporter

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    Motors and Gears!!

    This is the Anatomy of that little motor I mentioned in the earlier posting. The rubber boot and the tungsten weight have been removed. You can clearly see the 3 pole and windings on the shaft. This motor can take 9 volts under a load.

    [​IMG]

    The late Great Bill Kronenberger introduced these little wonders to me. A friend of his took one, clamped it securely in a vise in his garage, and hooked up 12 volts to it. Bill told me his friend ran the motor 24/7 for over a month. Bill said after that time his friend checked the motor for any accessive heat or strange noises and said neither were present. WOW!!! Impressive testing!!! Note, test was with tungsten weight attached.


    Gears: Their are a ton of plastic gears made for the small lite RC airplanes and helicopters!!! But, where do you find the WORMS??? Good question!!! Marklin does not sell the worms as a seperate item. So, you are limited to using their worms. The only other miniature worms I have found are located in Switzerland. And they are made from the same white plastic as most other pager motor gears. Two choices, metal or plastic worms is what we have.

    To use a Marklin worm gear on this pager motor you will need to machine a small brass tubing that is offered by K&S Engineering. I can't remember the size of the tubing but it is very small. I had to first drill out the inside to accept the motor shaft then I had to file down the outer diameter to fit in the Marklin worm gear. This is exactly what I did to make the MOW Truck work. The plastic worm I mentioned above has the correct diameter for the pager shaft.


    This photo shows the chassis of my MOW truck. Yes, for those who have never seen this photo before, it is DCC. Notice the Marklin gears used. Simple gearing.
    [​IMG]

    This same gearing could be used for the T-Gauge loco. When I say same, I mean the motor has the worm, then this type larger gear would then make contact with the gear on the T-Gauge drive axle/wheels.

    I am still in New Orleans and have not returned home, but in about a week I will find a package waiting for me from Japan!!! :tb-smile: I will be better able to make statements about the gearing once I have had time to play with the mechanism!!!


    Hobo Tim

    p.s. This is the extent of the MOW Truck thus far!!! Doc G, is it ready to send back????
    [​IMG]
     
    Kurt Moose likes this.
  4. Cleantex

    Cleantex TrainBoard Member

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    Hi Tim,

    One guy more infested :party:

    You remember, you send me a couple of this 9V motor,
    but I have for the moment no time to test with the shrimps.

    Advantage with 9 Volt :

    YOU CAN USE DCC-DECODER ON RAILS !

    For the worms and other animals, there is a supplier in Germany :
    http://www.mikrozahnrad.de/

    Looking forward your power upgrade !
    The parts, gearbox, motor, strips are just lying in the shell, nothing glued together.
    So, could be, apart motor size, easy to change. Anyway, for crane, motor could be put also vertical.
    For my park-train story, for the moment the wheels,
    whole drivetrain with pickup and the rails (awaiting the flex rails) is the more precious part.
    Still not know if I will put really motor inside, or drive magnetic under the rails.
     
  5. bambuko

    bambuko TrainBoard Member

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    Tim, have you tried these guys?:
    http://www.shop.kkpmo.com/index.php/cat/c35_M0-2-2-0mm-wormgearsystem.html
    0.2 module worm gear and a lot of other small gears
    above is the shop webpage, their main webpage is:
    http://www.mikroantriebe.de/

    Chris
     
  6. SJ Z-man

    SJ Z-man TrainBoard Member

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    I think Charlie out to start a T gauge forum. That'll freak out a few new main page searchers :)
    .
     
  7. Mike Skibbe

    Mike Skibbe TrainBoard Member

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    What is the shaft diameter on these motors?
     
  8. animek

    animek TrainBoard Member

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    Thank you Tim for the nice Tips!

    Ben
     
  9. DanMacK

    DanMacK TrainBoard Member

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    Robert, I'm actually kind of surprised you didn't do one of these http://rr-fallenflags.org/np/np-a30.jpg

    Seems like a good choice for simplicity and prototype :) Plus NP had several different types.

    I've also been thinking about T gauge steam and if it would be possible to have a powered tender and a dummy loco. I've seen HO scale locos do it, why not T?
     
  10. familykjp

    familykjp New Member

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  11. shamoo737

    shamoo737 Staff Member TrainBoard Supporter

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    Welcome to Traiboard, Familyjkp.
     
  12. rray

    rray Staff Member

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    Welcome to Trainboard Familyjkp! I seen your layout picture last week and really like your trackplan. Your city is looking very nice too! :D
     
  13. familykjp

    familykjp New Member

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    Thank you for your hurtful comment!
    I hope We can share about T gauge information.
    I am encouraged to build T gauge layout by your comments.
     
  14. SJ Z-man

    SJ Z-man TrainBoard Member

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    Wow, nice plan. It really helps that you have so many structures to build with !!

    Keep up the good (and fun) work !
    .
     
  15. DocG

    DocG TrainBoard Member

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    Tim!
    I'm done with your truck, but we need to have a conversation....PM me your email, I seem to have lost it!

    Doc
     
  16. Fred Ladd

    Fred Ladd TrainBoard Member

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    Doc,
    Is that the MOW TRUCK???? YES!
    Fred
     
  17. HoboTim

    HoboTim TrainBoard Supporter

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    F59PHI in T-Gauge

    I played hooky today too!!! From Z scale to work on T-Gauge!!!!

    I shortened a chassis to where it needs to be for a scaled down version of a F59PHI shell.

    More to come.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Photos at:
    http://tcentralstation.com/

    It's Time "T" Took off!!!!

    Hobo Tim
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Jul 26, 2010
    Kurt Moose likes this.
  18. Don A

    Don A TrainBoard Supporter

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    Tim:

    I can see how you might shorten a chassis, but how do you reduce the width?

    ...don
     
  19. HoboTim

    HoboTim TrainBoard Supporter

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    F59PHI


    That is the easiest part of all! The F59PH and the F59PHI along with all F units are full width locos.

    I took a reading of the width of the AZL F59PHI and when I scaled it to 1:450 it came out to 0.269" in width. I opened the caliper jaws to 0.269" and locked it there. I then too the little T-gauge car and was able to place it inside the jaws. The fit was so tight the car stayed between the jaws but was able to move within the jaws easily. Perfect fit!!!!!! Now if I can get that in a brass or styrene shell!!!

    F59PHI in Sounder
    [​IMG]

    F59PH in Dallas TRE
    [​IMG]

    Even the F40 is a full width loco.
    [​IMG]

    And the faithful F7 unit
    [​IMG]


    As far as I am concerned, all of these body types can possibly be made in T-Gauge, if not motorized, then as a Dummy unit and pushed by a Ghost motorized boxcar!!!!

    That is how I see it being done!!!

    Unless I have not calculated something here, let us drive on!!!

    Hobo Tim
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Jul 26, 2010
    Kurt Moose likes this.
  20. Loren

    Loren TrainBoard Supporter

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    Tim,
    Are you proposing to scratch build the shells you mentioned?
     

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