Hytec, a suggestion on for your benchwork

rsn48 Feb 6, 2015

  1. rsn48

    rsn48 TrainBoard Member

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    So I was reading comments on the "what's under your layout" when I came across Hytec's bench work. I copied the pic and sent it to a friend who is just starting out to show him that bench work with curves looks more pleasing to the eye, more professional and makes for more interesting track work. I also used the picture to issue him a warning so I thought it would be only sporting to make this suggestion to Hytec.

    In the picture, which I will post below, you have a larger ballooning out curve on the left side. I have bench work very similar to this. I learned the hard way, you are best to put a leg, you only need one, under the larger ballooning area as it will droop over time, not much maybe a 1/4 of an inch but enough to be a pain.

    You could run a straight piece of wood, parallel to the wall, past the brackets, and in the middle of it, have a leg; I really recommend this.

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Feb 6, 2015
  2. porkypine52

    porkypine52 TrainBoard Member

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    I agree that a leg or two would be needed. The layout will droop down and then not be square anymore. I also like having a more substantial layout base than just having the layout attached to the wall. We are all Human, what happens if somebody grabs the edge of the layout as they fall? What about when you add scenery, track, rolling stock? This will ad weight to the platform, causing the layout to droop and even PULL AWAY FROM THE WALL. I am a great fan of OVERBUILDING the benchwork for layouts. I want them STRONG.
     
  3. Hytec

    Hytec TrainBoard Member

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    Rick & Mark, thank you for your suggestions. Fortunately I haven't seen any sagging in the 7-8 years the layout that I've been building the layout. I'd like to think this was because I used lightweight materials, but maybe it's just dumb luck.

    The "balloons" (I like that) on both the left and right are 36" to allow 15" radius loops. The brackets are 21" long and spaced every 16", or less depending on stud location. 1"x2" clear pine is screwed to the brackets and secured back to the wall. The two longest 1"x2"s are 36" in the middle of the balloons, the rest are shorter. I used two 3/4" layers of foam board for the layout base. The scenery is Sculptamold thinly spread on the foam board for the flat areas, and over two layers of plaster cloth for the hills. I use a combination of crumpled newspaper and foam board to form the hill contours. I've tried to make everything as light as possible and it seems to be working, at least for the time being.....I hope.
     
  4. rsn48

    rsn48 TrainBoard Member

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    I built my own L brackets for reasons I won't bore you with. I didn't have any trouble except the one area that ballooned out. The rest of your layout doesn't need any legs. If it works and nothing is dipping, good on you. If at some point some of your rolling stock starts rolling on their own, you know what to suspect and if it does happen, an easy fix.
     
  5. McCloudRiver

    McCloudRiver TrainBoard Member

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    Nice suggestion on the legs. I do not think they are needed though as Hytec has said. I have the same brackets in my garage lag bolted to the studs and I have stood on them several times over the years. I'm 240 now but was up to 285 at one time. They are really strong.
     
  6. RedRiverRR4433

    RedRiverRR4433 TrainBoard Member

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    Hytec:

    You did a wonderful job in designing your bench work. I watched your layout develop since you started it years ago. :cool::cool:


    Shades
     
  7. Hytec

    Hytec TrainBoard Member

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    Thanks Shades, it's been much more fun since I gave up trying to build an "empire" and just recreated memories of my youth which seemed to flow together.
     

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