I need some expert advice biggrin: I have two "Kato Unitrack" bridges that I want to use on my layout, and I'd like to keep the "Unitrack" in them intact, as the unijoiners connect the two nicely, and I don't want to bash new track into them. Is there a way to connect the two types of track??? ( I've done a search & turned up zilch.......those never work well for the "computer impaired") Trackwork has begun & these bridges are a "bottle-neck"........
Do a Search for Connecting C55 Peco track to Kato Unitrack. One of the hits is for a post on trainbord by Bryan9. Detailed article wit lots of pictures.
yup searching "Connecting C55 Peco track to Kato Unitrack" on google brings you right to it as the 3rd listing down.
Kato sells conversion track pieces which join to Unitrack on one side, and code 80 (ex. Atlas snap track) on the other. The part number is 20-045, which contains 2 pieces with a MSRP of $3. These where originally designed to interface between Kato's Unitrack and that of their chief Japanese competitor, Tomix. Tomix track (currently known as Fine Track) has it's own ballast, but it isn't nearly as thick or wide as Unitrack. For this reason there will actually be a bit of space (~2mm) below your own track, you may need to add a shim. Picture here. At the top is the Unitrack connection, at the bottom general code 80, with enough space under the rails for Tomix ballast. woo woo woo - Model Trains and Model Railroad Accessories
This deals with replacing the C80 rail that comes in "Unitack" with C55 rail...........Not what I was after
Someone (I believe Micro Engineering) makes a C55/80 conversion rail joiner. Shim the C55 to match the rail height of the C80, insert conversion rail joiner, K.I.S.S. I would even go as far to say forget the rail joiner and just make a good solder only connection. Tin the rail ends, match the rail height, put some flux on and give the joint a quick press with the soldering iron. Then just cut your expansion gaps a few inches back. This has worked for me in the past when I had to cut a turnout too close to the points for a rail joiner to fit.
Yep, ME makes what is actually a C70/55 transition joiner. The difference between C70 & 80 should be minimal. Just file the bottom of the rail off a bit and insert into the joiner, or once inserted, file the top down to match the C55. Dont over think it.
If using the Peco C55, which is really code 80, with an extra flange, it is even easier! Just shove it into a unijoiner! Works like a champ.
Doh!?!?!?!............OK, I'm officially a moron arghh: I looked & looked @ it, and that never occurred to me. I will definitely have to give that a try. "Thank you"
If you look at the right of this photo, you can see 3 pieces of Peco C55 connecting directly to unitrack The dark area below the flex track is WS N-scale foam roadbed, which is providing the support for the slope from the ground-level of the turntable up to the track roadbed of unitrack. (If I was doing it over, I would have raised the entire roundhouse and turntable area, so that all the track was level. At least, with ballasting, the slope isn't all that apparent).
I have not tried the following with Unitrak or Peco, but with Atlas Code 80 to Code 55. Flip both pieces of track so that the rail is on your work surface. Both rail will HAVE to be lined up height wise to one another this way. Solder from the underside (which will be facing you). All done. Flip and lay. Shim where needed.
