I am a beginner trying to model in N-scale (and on a ridiculously tight budget) a "transition era" regional based loosely on the Central Vermont Railway. I have many skills to learn. Among the first, it seems, is the ability to redecorate second-hand boxcars, etc., so they reflect – as decals are available – rolling stock from a number of somewhat obscure railroads during my chosen 1920-1960 time frame. I am hung-up on whether or not to spend money on an air brush. The most I might be able to afford is the Badger 250-3 Kit available through Amazon (free shipping) for under $27 [ http://amzn.to/13Ea2Kw ]. The kit includes a single-action, external-mix, siphon-fed spray gun (Badger Model 250), two small jars, one can of Propel, and the necessary regulator and hoses to connect everything up. Additional cans of Propel come in packages of two for about $20. They say the spray gun operates on on 20 to 50 PSI, and that its spray pattern can be adjusted from 3/4-inch to 2-inches. I will not be trying to do super-detailing with this spray gun, just applying overall coats of paint and clear finishes, etc. And, for starters, on not more than three or four cars. Is it worth it to buy so basic an airbrush? Or can I get results just as good in N-scale by hand painting with a typical brush?
I've had an older Badger (200) for many long years now. Has paid for itself, over and over. Some folks seem to do well with the good old manual brush. They can make any project come out looking good. I do some of both. But when it comes to cars and engines, I definitely air brush.
You will be surprised how much you use your airbrush. I did a lot of work, for many years, with a Badger 250. The kit you describe is good. Later you can pick up a small compressor quite inexpensively. Do not spend big bucks on a Badger, Paasche, or other airbrush brand compressor. I picked up a small shop compressor with 1 gallon tank on Ebay for $40, including shipping. This is the type you would use for a staple gun or nail gun. It has a regulator that can be set up to 120 psi. Painting cars and locos, simple weathering, etc, all good. One good way to start weathering is just to apply a flat clear coat (Dullcoat) over a shiny loco. Better, a coat of "Dust", heavier near the bottom and ends. Some thinned Grimy Black sprayed on top of a diesel will simulate exhaust soot. And you are already making your locos and cars look more realistic. Use on buildings, too. Most of the plastic metal buildings from Rix are in blue, but spraying them offwhite, tan, or that light green color can add some variety. Anyway, the kit you mention will last for years if you clean it properly after every use. Good luck! Paul Coats
What you have found will work well for what you want to do. If you can, practice on older freight cars until you get the hang of it. I would recommend a pre-mixed paint such as Badger Modelflex (acrylic) or Tru-Color (solvent) as you don't need to worry about thinning. Solvent based paints are the most forgiving, just spray in a well ventilated area. Acrylics require a mask if you don't have a spray booth as the paint particles (over spray) is essentially plastic and will not break down in your system if inhaled. Like Paul said, eventually you will need a compressor. In the end they are cheaper and give much better performance over a can of air. Paul's advice on a compressor is pretty much spot on to what I would suggest. I use my airbrush for all kinds of painting in the work shop, it is probably my favorite tool. Let us know any other questions you might have.
Thanks, gentlemen. Looks like a Badger kit and a mask are in my future. Jim – you said that solvent paints are "most forgiving". In what way? I was leaning toward acrylics - for water-based clean-up if nothing else.
Generally yes, solvent based paint is more forgiving in the finishing aspect of painting then acrylics. While it is true one can clean acrylics with warm water, they have other cons I have found. Take for example Polly Scale acrylic paint. To spray a good coat on your model, you will need to: Stir not shake the bottle to ensure you have completely re-mixed the paint Thin: generally 3 parts paint to 2 parts thinner Use a wide #3 needle in your airbrush Low PSI, 16 - 18 PSI is best Acrylics are WYSISWYGET, What You See Is What You Get. The good news is they dry fast, the bad news is they don't re-desolve so it is best to go on lightly and build up the color coats. With Polly Scale you will need a gloss coat for good decal adhesion Modelflex is a bit easier in that it is prethinned and doesn't require a gloss coat before decals but it still needs a wide flow needle and low PSI for a smooth finish without the paint drying up on the tip. With solvent based paint you can easily use any needle, PSI can be 20-25 and you have slightly better control of flow. I have recently switched to Tru-Color solvent based paints and could not be happier. Rather than do all that has been expllained above regarding acrylics, I now simply: Give the bottle a quick shake (it's pre-thinned) Pour into my color cup It doesn't care which needle I use, currently I'm using a #3 Set my PSI at 20 and spray Clean up is cheap and easy. I have a cleaning station by Testors (Although the one from Iwata is better), stick the brush into the cleaning station, ad acetone I buy from Home Depot and run the acetone through the brush until it is clean (usually two times). You of coarse want good ventilation with this paint like any solvent base but acrylic has it's own hidden dangers. You do not want to breath in the after spray from acrylic paint as it is plastic and will not break down in your lungs (White Lung). Hope this helps. This is my experience of going on 20 years with 7 of it working for a major model paint company.
I have a Badger 350, and rather than run a compressor I want to use the spare tire adaptor and run the air brush off a portable air tank. Has anyone else tried this and how did it work?
I got my 2-gallon air compressor for $20 in a local Craigslist listing. There are artists, mechanics and athletes who use air compressors in their professions/hobbies and would also be likely to sell one.
I have not but others on TB have. As long as you have a regulator and a consistent air supply, you're all set.
Would you recommend the Badger Hobby starter set 314-Hswc? Comes with a compressor. I think I might be able to get my monied with with this and a wardrobe box paint booth.
I have a $10 airbrush from harbor freight that works decent enough for what I need it to do. I have a couple extra as spares just for in case. The compressor I use is a 3 gallon pancake style I got there for $39 as well. Look around you will be amazed at what you can find cheap. So far I have painted four locomotives and they turned out great for a first timer myself. Here is a pic of one of the engines I have done so far. View attachment 58569
On the other side of the equation, the first loco I painted and decaled was a P2K PA1 that I brush painted with Modelflex paint. It came out fine -the Modelflex brushes on very nicely. Not sure how it would do on a steam loco with more places for the paint to puddle around the piping and appliances. I do use an airbrush now which I bought mostly for weathering purposes. George V.
As a first airbrush for a beginner? Yes. There's a lot of things you need to learn before you can get "good" at airbrushing and the 250 can get you through a good chunk of them. The problem is, it's basically only good at doing base coats and not detail work, which is all you said that want to do at this time anyways. As a result, you'll hit the limits of its abilities fairly quickly. However, anyone who is able to airbrush ultimately buys more than one as their needs expand and you can easily find air hose adapters if you change brands with your next airbrush. Something you may want to read.
I bought a Binks Wren at a garage sale several years ago brand new in the package for a song. Okay, I practically stole it since the seller only wanted $15 for it. Well then I had to get a compressor and tank. With my McGyver intuition I got a compressor out of an old fridge an old propane tank and some fittings along with some airline and a water trap and I was in business. Even though I had everything I needed I was still hesitant. I bought some old Bachmann and Trix cars for like no more than $1 to try my luck. The best advise I can give you is just go for it. I do almost everything from custom paint to weathering to even putting graffitti on my buildings now. I have also used my airbrush for weathering rail, ties, and ballast. An airbrush is one thing that even an average modeler needs in his tool box. Ryan
I have used a Badger 150 for more than 20 years and love it for engines, cars, buildings, scenery, shading, weathering, etc. The beauty about a Badger is that it's warrantied for life. I just received mine back from Badger after they reconditioned it for free. My only cost was $8 for the return shipment. BTW, it was out of my hands for only 11 days, which included two weekends, and that was with US Postal Service shipping between South Mississippi and Chicago....can't beat them apples.
I'd forgotten all about this fact. hboy: Gotta remember, as my old 200 is going to be getting a workout in coming months.
Ralph, the way you titled the thread and your opening statements may have shied some folks off about giving an actual answer to your question so let me say, no an airbrush is not an essential tool for model railroading. Jim
