I have accepted a new job that requires me to move from St. Louis to upstate New York...how do you recommend I pack the train stuff? I also have a layout on a 3 X 7 door. Any ideas to minimize damage in the U-Haul? Ski
If you don't have the packaging your stuff came in, get some of those storage boxes you find at train shows and in magazines that are made to hold locos and cars. As far as the layout, I'd suggest attaching sides and a top so that it forms a crate with the layout being the bottom of the crate. That way, if anything does break off, it'll still be inside and not lost in the trailer.
You have just described any model railroaders worst nightmare. I keep all my rolling stock safely in large Plano tackle boxes. Art & craft stores sell 9"x11" foam sheets in both 1/8th" and 1/4" thicknesses. They are called "Foamies". They are very cheap. I have used them to line the spaces in the drawers of the tackle boxes so the cars etc do not get damaged. As far as the layout goes, The crate idea works. a lot of my Ntrak club's members have done this to their modules. Good luck!
Double walled boxes, usually sold as 'crystal boxes' for packing fragile items. These provide the maximum protection. I have also packed many smaller boxes I have picked up here and there into larger boxes for storage. These should be fine for a move as yours. Gary. Currently packing the MR for a move...
We have shipped display dioramas to shows, and some modules people, and Carnival Shows, all use a method that has proven to be successful and quick for many years. Its a quick-set crate. Once built, its quick to set up and quick to tear down. Here is how its made: (I meant to mention that we made our first one over a week end and roller painted it Sunday night, done.) You would screw "free pin" hinges two to each long side of the layout. Pull the pin (they use common nails) and the hinge separates. Each hinge is numbered, so they go back together correctly every time. You probably have wiring under the door, scenery and track on top. To protect both, make two panels of plywood the same size as the door, one to cover the wiring, the other to cover the top above the tallest buildings. Make two ends and sides. Use flathead bolts with nuts to mount 8 hinges to the bottom door sized panel near a corner (maybe 6" back from each corner). Put the hinge on top surface of the panel, screw heads on the bottom, with the knuckle of the hinge even with the outer edge of the panel so the other half of the hinge can stand up vertically. "Break the back" of these hinges, means with the wings of the hinge at 90 degrees to eachother, the knuckle is on the outside of the angle and the hinge can not close flat. This aids in stiffening the crate because anyother mounting would allow the crate to fall sideways in a trapizoid shape and destroy the scenery. (That is how they protect all those lights! Each crate is self bracing for travel and stacking.) Decide how much space you need to clear the wiring, and anything else that is mounted on the underside of the door. Set the door temporarily on blocks of that height. Measure from the edge of an end panel (to be) and mark the panel for a few inches at each end where two hinges will be. Screw two hinges onto the sides of the layout door so the hinge knuckle is on top with one half the hinge (break its back 90 degrees) flat on top of the door, the other half hanging down along the door edge. ( No hinges on the top or bottom edges of the door). Screw the hinges to the door edge near a corner. Now pull the pin on this hinge, turn the free half of the hinge around and replace the pin. Mark where the holes go on the panel for this hinge and at the same time, mark the holes for the lower hinges that are on the bottom cover panel. Note that the way the hinges fold to mount the panels, all the screw heads are on the "outside" of the finished "crate". All the hinge knuckles are "up" on a top surface so the pin can be reached easily. Mount the hinges on the top panel the same way, but with the hinge on the underside of this panel, flathead screw heads on top, and hinge has the "broken back" position. This leaves the knuckle exposed so the pins can be inserted and removed. It works best if the end panels are "pinned" to the bottom cover panel first and laying flat on the floor. Then the long panels are made to go on the bottom cover panel next. Now pin the door to one side panel and stand the side panel upright and prop it in place, like against a wall. Next lift the other side of the door, swing the panel for that side up, and pin the door to it and prop it up like with a chair, or you can also use a noaccount brother-in-law to hold it. Now tape the hinge pins on the door to prevent the pins working out during travel vibrations. Then swing an end panel up and prop it in place with a fat neighbor. Do the other end panel and prop it with one of the kids. Now place the top cover panel (with your beautiful wife's help to hold one end), in place aligned with the side panel against the wall, while you pin it to the side panel, then let it swing down on top of the other side panel and pin it to that side panel. Run the kid off and pin that end panel to the top. Then kick the noaccount brother-in-law out of your way to pin his end panel. Lastly secure all the hinge pins in place with masking tape for travel. (The Carny people drive a small nail in to prevent the head of the nail "pin" from working out). With all screw heads flush with the panel surface, the crate wont scratch or gouge other furniture. It will be heavy, so I suggest you mount an oak handle on each end to give a secure hand hold when carrying the crate in and out of the house. Even though the layout is only suspended on 4 hinges, it is secure enough so the crate may be put on its side, or even stood up on end. That is pretty important when using a two wheeler up or down stairs, or a ramp out of a truck. There was one display case I saw where they had made the panels to fold down during setup, to serve as a base by putting the top cover on the floor and pinning it to the other panels. It can be pretty handy, see? Is it worth it to go to all this trouble? How crummy is your layout? Want to keep it in good shape, or throw it away and start over? This works many times over when we go to setup displays at shows, move modules, or setup a Carnival in the next town, the panels serve other purposes too, so keep them.Sand the sharp edges and corners off, and you can cover the crate with a tarp for rain too. It is a good idea to paint the crate outside, and stencil your name and address on it. Then if you ever had to have it shipped, you are ready to go. We used ordinary suit cases to pack the rolling stock in thick "dimple" foam. Samsonite worked well. Stencil your name on each one, so they do not get mixed up with other luggage, and they stand out like a sore toe if someone decides to "take a trip" with one of your ! locked ! cases !! Get it? [ 23 February 2002, 10:48: Message edited by: watash ]
Thanks for the advice, everyone!!!! BTW, are there any good hobbyshops in upstate New York or Vermont? Ski
I performed a move. The best advice that can be given is if you don't have the original packaging then pack the loose cars in eother commercial foam boxes as receommended by other or pack the cars like they were china in tissue paper. Also, I purchased my own boxes and packed the trains myself. If the movers pack you may not be happy and since the house is a greater priority you may not find any damage until long after it is too late to file a claim. Finally, if possible move the packed trains with you in the car or a u-haul trailer if possible. This way your care is the best way to keep things intact. Lot of luck, Jerry
Send this question to "Harron". He lives in Rensselaer (near Albany), and is into modelling. [ 24 February 2002, 15:17: Message edited by: Hank Coolidge ]
I am not too sure about local hobby shops but the RensselaerModel RR Society, http://railroad.union.rpi.edu/index.html , is the largest club in the area. Perhaps they can point you in the right direction. Their next open house is March 23rd and the layout is worth seeing by itself! Hope this helps! <img src=http://www.trainboard.com/sigbreak.gif> Russ
