Hollow Core Door Layout questions

Dave McDonald Oct 13, 2021

  1. Inkaneer

    Inkaneer TrainBoard Member

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    Okay, I know you reconsidered the radius and went to 16 inch radius after Boxcab commented. But even with a 16 or 17 inch radius your long cars and locomotives will look very toy like. But like the last sentence in my original post said, "However, as in all things relating to model railroading, MRR Rule #1 applies."
     
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  2. CSX Robert

    CSX Robert TrainBoard Member

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    Of course Unitrack jumps from 15" to 19" radius, so there is that. You can get a 16/38" outside radius and 15" inside with the double track pieces.

    With 36" doors, you can use 15" radius with either 19" or 28" radius simulated easements which looks and operates much better than going directly from straight into the 15" radius.
     
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  3. Hardcoaler

    Hardcoaler TrainBoard Member

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    I pulled my HCD layout away from the wall this morning to fill and paint nail holes at the rear. I'd not yet tried moving it around before in earnest and I'm really happy how easily it rolls on the carpet. There's only 10 LBS of weight on each leg, casters are 3". Also added the control panel a few days ago.

    Yes, my curves will be tight. Track will be Kato and the tightest mainline curves will be 282mm radius (11.1") and the other most common curve will be 315mm radius (12.4"). I normally run 40' and 50' equipment, plus passenger cars. The 11.1" curves will be in mountains, so won't cause visual alarm. I set up a test layout with these curves and ran all kinds of locomotives and equipment on them with very few if any problems, so I'm not worried. This is all of the space I have for a model railroad and am willing to concede wider radius curves for a more interesting track plan.

    2021-10-14 DSN Pulled Out From Wall - for upload.jpg
     
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  4. mtntrainman

    mtntrainman TrainBoard Supporter

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  5. Hardcoaler

    Hardcoaler TrainBoard Member

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    I came across that link just a week ago and thought it was pretty cool. Had never thought of these combinations.
     
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  6. Hardcoaler

    Hardcoaler TrainBoard Member

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    Thinking about the 1/2" foam sheet that will cover my HCDs, have any of y'all cut the foam sheets atop the HCDs to provide the "ramps" needed for inclines and raised track? I was thinking that if I selectively cut ramps at say 1-1/2" wide and supported them underneath with wooden blocks of graduated sizes, I could create smooth transition serpentine routes with customized grades. Foam that isn't raised would be glued tight to the HCDs.
     
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  7. CSX Robert

    CSX Robert TrainBoard Member

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    Mixing other radiuses and short straights doesn't change the minimum radius - to have a loop of Unitrack on a 36" hollow core door you cannot have a minimum radius greater than 15", unless you want to cut up some double track curves.

    The "make your own flextrack" works well for small sections but for large curves, in my opinion, it's easier to just go ahead and use flextrack.
     
  8. in2tech

    in2tech TrainBoard Member

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    Very nice, is that a coffee/anything shelf I see? Can you take a closer picture of your control units since they are attached now? Woodwork is amazing. Are the Woodland Scenic inclines to expensive? Is that what you are talking abut the inclines? My largest curves are 11" on my 2' x 4', but I am fine with that! I have an OLD 80 x 36 I think hollow core layout in the garage but at the time, I never even thought about drilling or cutting it for lights or scenery. How do you handle the Hollow part? Guess what I am asking is what is the measurements of the hollow part? And would you hurt the rigidity of the door? I thought about wooden legs for mine, but I don't have the talent and it just me, putting it up, so I went with 2' x 4' folding tables. Plus I need to be able to take it down at a moments notice, kind of! And to work on it!
     
  9. BarstowRick

    BarstowRick TrainBoard Supporter

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    I wanted to respond to this when, I first saw the OP's original question.

    I'm not the god of model railroading and I don't know anyone that is. We are all in this together. Where did I hear that before. Oop's I might be looking for a different catch phrase here. Aiiyiiyii !!

    Here's the way this works. It's not my place to tell you how to build your model railroad. I can tell you what I did and what I liked best of all. You can choose to copy it or not. It's about choices... and that's enough said on that subject.

    My minimum radius on my mainline is a 15" radius. Down side or what I don't like. I can't run my full length passenger cars through it or the long auto parts cars. They just look silly doing that. As a result I pushed my mainline out to 18" radius and made that my new minimum for the main. Now then I'm happy with that.

    There still is 15" radius curves in the coal district. Those coal cars are fairly short and it's buried in the helix-ii. Not likely to be seen once the scenery goes on. "Buried"? Why would a mortician use such a word.

    I will be building for the first time an addition to my layout that isn't open grid. Why, open grid? I can work on it from the top down. I even wired it all in from the top with those painful jaunts underneath to run the wires through access holes. There's always an exception to the rule.

    Anyway, I don't like door jamb layouts. And preached such in the past. Sorry, "Door Jamb Layouts". Just my nick for something I don't like. However, did I say there's an exception? When the land lord donated a hollow core door. Funny thing, I didn't turn it down. i bought into it hook, line and sinker. It will remain flat for a George like "Penny Yard".

    Your layout! Yep your layout. No matter which one you are working on or with. You know first, second, third or last. Will teach you things you need to know. You will see for yourself what works best and what doesn't. Same can be said for what looks the best and what just irritates the ...well...out of you.

    Rule #1 and see signature below.
     
    Last edited: Oct 14, 2021
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  10. Hardcoaler

    Hardcoaler TrainBoard Member

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    Thank you. The center shelf will house my Kato power pack. The panel to the left will control turnouts and the one to the right, blocks and other functions, including a DCC throttle input. I'm an old skool DC guy, but want DCC on tap so that I can learn more about it. I don't have power applied to the table yet, but when I do, all of those LEDs will glow. I hope I won't have to wear sunglasses. :cool:

    2021-10-14 Control Panel Mounted - for upload.jpg
     
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  11. Hardcoaler

    Hardcoaler TrainBoard Member

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    The Woodland Scenic inclines look to be excellent and if my foam idea doesn't seem workable, I'll go Woodland Scenic. Heck, I may go Woodland Scenic anyway, as being more forgiving and straightforward.
     
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  12. in2tech

    in2tech TrainBoard Member

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    Alright so what's the wire hanging down first of all? And where are the other hundred wires for your switches and blocks? And close up picture shows that it sits inside of the bench work, automatically giving you safety of a derailment, unlike mine. On purpose I guess? Of course it was. I have decided that my two switches in the back of mine need to be remote wired ( bought all NEW manual recently ), and also when throw they both throw at the same time? Forget the name of it, it's in my 1990's N Scale book. So I have to figure out how to add one of those toggle switches as I have never done it.

    So professional looking, I am so impressed!

    BTW, I was really hoping for a coffee shelf :)
     
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  13. Hardcoaler

    Hardcoaler TrainBoard Member

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    Oh, those are test wires attached to terminals inside the control panel. I reckon that there'll be 10,000 wires tied into the control panel. :eek: Well, not that many o_O, but 2 Ea/Turnout * 20 and 2 Ea/Block * 16, plus reverse loop, lights, walkaround throttle, master power, etc.. I like wiring though, so I'm not entering that aspect of the build with apprehension. I do wish I'd made the control panel a bit deeper to allow more space inside it, but I was concerned with it limiting my reach across the layout.

    Yes, I calculated the height of the fascia above the HCD, observing 1/2" foam and the height of Kato track to allow a slight apron above rail height and hopefully prevent locomotives and equipment from taking a nose dive to the floor.

    It's funny that you mention a coffee cup shelf, as I'd planned on working one into the design. Maybe later.(y)
     
  14. Shortround

    Shortround TrainBoard Member

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    BarstowRick, that's why I'm in here. To get many ideas and try putting them together. Now all I need again is the other side of the equation. Have fun. ;)
     
  15. ogre427

    ogre427 TrainBoard Member

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    upload_2021-10-14_18-31-49.jpeg


    A friend and I each made halves of a double-door layout. This is my half that I used Unitrack on. The big curve is 15" radius. I think it looks fine, but I mostly run Geeps and 40-50 foot cars. You can see the shadow of the original layout (also Unitrack).
     
  16. ogre427

    ogre427 TrainBoard Member

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    Here are a couple of the first designs.

    upload_2021-10-14_18-45-8.jpeg

    upload_2021-10-14_18-46-9.jpeg
     
  17. Shortround

    Shortround TrainBoard Member

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    Interesting how the top and bottom layouts stand on there own and the middle one has legs. o_O
     
  18. BarstowRick

    BarstowRick TrainBoard Supporter

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    LOL Agreed, I'm at the same spot. This needs to be fun not work. Sigh!!
     
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  19. spyder62

    spyder62 TrainBoard Member

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    if your doing a N scale layout on a 3-0 HCD find a HO layout for a 4 x 8 you like and reduce it by 75%
    works out great
    rich
     
  20. Shortround

    Shortround TrainBoard Member

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    Wouldn't that be reduce it BY 25%?
     

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