Here is the small layout I'm working on. It's trackplan is based on the Z scale layout in the April 85 MR http://index.mrmag.com/covers/MR/MR8504.jpg That layout was 2'x3', I stretched mine to 2'x4' The minimum radius is 8". I couldn't find the Z scale stone arch bridge that was used in the article so I narrowed down a Atlas N scale bridge, it's now 15 Z scale feet wide. A close match to Erie's Starrucca Viaduct. http://www.family-images.com/pa/misc2/PA%20Lanesboro%20Starrucca%20Viaduct%20Stone%20Bridge%20Erie%20Pushers.jpg (check out the 3 camelback pushers ) The prototype arches are 50' long, my model has 40' arches. Proto was 110' high at the creek, mine is 55'. Here are some shots with the foam starting to shape up. the track will mount to the 3/16" board you see, it will give you an idea of the trackplan. The foam has a frame of 1x2's, the heaviest part so far is the backdrop (2, 1'x3' pieces of hardboard back to back)
Coolness! Now I want to build a small layout too! All I have right now are modules, but that looks like a lot of fun! Great job, I can't wait to see your next installment! -Robert
Where did you get your foam? I see you have blue and pink? It is very hard to get in my area. I did a lot of research on the foam subject. Here is what I learned about foam.... FOAM INFORMATION HERE Let me know if I am not correct.
WOW!! That's one heck of a start!! You best keep us posted on progress! I wanna' see this one when done!!
I buy foam right down the street at Home Depot or Lowe's in .5,1,1.5,2,2.5,3 inch thickness. Everything I've learned about foam is just from playing with it till I find what works. usually I will lay track right on it with liquid nails and carve the ballast profile right into it. On this layout I'm going with handlaid code 40 So I cut out a hardboard roadbed (sort of like cork) I don't know why, but I've never used cork for a layout. I know this is a small layout, but I have one the same size in N scale, so this one feels much bigger. It's just a start. Doing the trackwork will mean doing the bridges which are considered "structures" I can't wait for the first train to run : )
I might add that there is not much difference between the pink and blue foam, just different manufactures. And I carve everything with a snap off blade knife, leaving it extended all the way. The heat from cutting dulls the blade so I bought a cheap sharpener...I know the blade are very cheap, but they last forever if you re-sharpen them. You can also cut it with a jigsaw and leather/cork cutting blade. It is like a dull knife blade and leaves no mess when cutting. I always hear people using a big wire wheel to shape this stuff, but that seems like waaaaaay too big a mess for me. I just carve it up with the knife. [ March 26, 2006, 01:24 AM: Message edited by: Chris333 ]
Yeah I use a steak knife to carve foam myself. It's not really much mess, I just cut a bunch, then throw the scraps in a grocery bag, and repeat until I like the looks. I just wish I have more vision, so I could see more topography as I cut, because I always just end up with plywood plains and a scenic divider type of mountain. I need to work on that. -Robert
Your lucky to be able to buy foam locally. Here in sunny California people don't buy much insulation I guess. It's hard to find. Do I see sheet rock screws holding the foam together? Do you use glue also? -Brad
I used new M-T track and glued it with Des Plaines Hobbies "Foam super glue" I think it's called,( ), along with some 1.5 " thin push pins from a craft store. I tested a piece of track on pink foam board and it didn't dissolve the foam at all, but it sure does stick to the foam! Went to test the strength, it pulled the top layer of foam off with the roadbed! It's like a real gentile cyancralite, or whatever the technical term for super glue is!
I usually use liquid nails to hold the foam layers together and it sticks and stays put. I was out and used white glue this time so the screws hold things in place till it dries. You can remove the screws later or leave them. Pins work also. You should probably use liquid nails for projects since it's safe for foam, but regular liquid nails worked fine if you keep it spread out thin. I have used Loctite stuff call "quick grab" too and it worked fine. Some sections of the foam will lift out so it's not in the way when laying track. I'll glue it down when I'm done with track.
Maybe it's not popular in California for environmental reasons. Even if you don't need as much insulation from the cold as other areas, I can't imagine that insulation isn't needed from the heat (So. Cal, anyway). Or, maybe "this product was found to cause cancer in California". Dan S.
Chris---That looks like the beginning of a real work of art. Not only that, but I also think that your creative nod to the legendary Starucca Viaduct was a great choice. Also --- a significant piece of my own somewhat limited "Z" holdings is an Erie 2-8-2 (a green Southern loco bleached, and painted black, renumbered 3164, and on the tender an Erie diamond which had been intended for an N scale diesel) which I have often thought is the only Z scale Erie mike in the world, but maybe not! Anyway, I like it a lot because it's Erie and I hope to get it refitted with a 5 pole motor, which it deserves, sometime this year. But back to the main point---that looks like a great layout! [ March 26, 2006, 10:52 PM: Message edited by: Jay Gould ]
Jim, Thanks. I want to get things running first and see how it goes, but my exact thoughts were that a 2-8-2 in Erie colors would be a great next locomotive. Maybe with a feedwater heater in front of the stack! Your's might not be the only one for long ; ) I was also thinking I might call the Viaduct side of the layout "Smaulsboro" or something like that. I might add that the larger side will be hills and country, the smaller side will be a town of some sort with a station.
Bob, I didn't really draw one up, was hoping the construction pic's would show it. Here is a more overhead shot: I think they call the "trackplan" and folded figure 8 or something like that. The thin brown boards will be the track the white paper are cutouts of turnouts. The town site will just have a small passing siding with 3 industries. The town area isn't really laid out yet, I'll figure it out as I go for placement of buildings and such.
Thanks Chris: It's hard to to see the entire trackplan due to the divider. I for one don't keep back issues of MR going back to 1985. In Florida we don't have basements for storage. So storage space is a premium commodity. Some folks would like to visualize the entire trackplan as a reference. Stay cool and run steam....
Here is the original 2x3 trackplan. My passing siding would be along the bottom of the plan and of course mine is a foot longer.
Looks like a great start! Keep updating the progress. Looks like you made real good use of that divider.