Hey i am now wondering how u guys create ur control boards? i have seen a few good ideas, but any others would be appreciated!
I use 1/8" thick masonite mounted in a slide-out drawer made from 1" x 4" wood. I pre-drill holes in the masonite then paint it. After the paint is fully dry, I put on colored striping tape to represent the tracks. To seal the tape I put on several coats of clear acrylic. I keep adding coats until I can't feel any edge on the tape stripes. I then install the switches. Then I slide the masonite into groves that I cut on the inside of the 1 x 4 draw. Looks great and keeps the control panel out of the way when not in use.
I use two pieces of Perspex the right size for my panel. Next thing I do is draw out the plan on a computer programme to A4 size. When finished I print one copy on plain paper and another on Photo paper at top quality to use as the finished product. The first piece of plain paper is used only to provide the places to drill the holes through for the D.P.D.T switches. Mine are 1/4" holes for my switches. (Micro switches) and also where to drill the holes for point control. When all drilling is completed, I remove the plain paper and clean up the two pieces of Perspex. Now I insert the new Photo Paper printout and I have a professional looking control panel just waiting to be wired up. For my point control I use the stud and contact method utilizing a capacitor discharge unit, which has a 16 volt output for my PL10 point motors which I use to throw the points. The reason I prefer stud and contact over momentary switches (To throw the points) is I only need two tiny nuts and bolts (Brass) fitted to each point on the control panel. Here is what my control panel looks like, notice the nuts and bolts, these are my stud and probe contact for changing point direction. You will also notice that I have two switches per block, the reason, I could only buy D.P.D.T without centre off, so I had to put in beside the D.P.D.T.'s a separate on/off switch. Have Fun Paul
