Going to install a decoder on my first Kato, a RS-2. How do you remove the shell? I've done it many times with Atlas locos but the tolerance of the Kato shell appears to be extremely tight. Where do you stick the toothpicks? I assume there are 4 "nubs" somewhere on the sides. Are they above the trucks? I've removed the air tank and tried rocking it left/right like the Atlases. No go. Do you have to remove the body and then the deck or does the whole assembly comes off like the Atlases? Thanks.
Cab rocks off first being careful of the handrails. Tabs are located on eitherside of the short and long hoods. Very slight pry up of the direct middle of either end under headlight should lift the shell from walkway enough to spot tabs on either side below radiator and just before doors on short hood end. No other tabs except for feul tank assembly. I'm using a very small fine flat jewelers screwdriver. Also could use a #11 exacto blade slipped in carefully with a little side twist to lift slightly. Mine come right apart no hassle.
MK: The whole assembly comes off. I also use a small jewelers screwdriver. Stay cool and run steam......
I used a # 11 Xacto blade between the body and frame and the mechanism dropped right out. Great news, the decoder install (if you are using a Digitrax) is an easy Plug 'N Play installation. I like the RSC2's .... they are smooth and good performers. Harold
The Digitrax decoder installation is one of the easiest in N scale. Stay cool and run steam...... [ July 07, 2005, 08:22 PM: Message edited by: Powersteamguy1790 ]
The Digitrax decoder installation is one of the easiet in N scale. </font>[/QUOTE]I couldn't agree more... I think that was my first DCC install Harold
Most of the later Kato decoder installations fall into the same category... very easy. Stay cool and run steam.....
Reporting back: I did eventually get the shell off. It took longer than I expected but I was more careful as it was my first Kato. I did use a Digitrax decoder and it was pretty simple with one exception. The cut outs' corners were rounded and caused some interference in dropping in the decoder. BTW, Kato's lightboard has square corners. I had to use a needle file and carefully square up the corners so they can clear the notches on the loco's frame. Once that was done it was a 2 second job. While I rate that as very easy, it may not be to a beginner, having to file some of the PCB away. Some of the traces are awfully close to the edge where the filing was done.
MK: After doing your first Kato diesel decoder installation, the rest are easy. Stay cool and run steam.......
Harold: One of the worst decoder installations for a Plug N' Play decoder is the MT FT's. There's nothing easy about that one at all. Nothing lines up properly.... Stay cool and run steam.....
