1. OlyPen

    OlyPen TrainBoard Member

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    A photo from my 36x80" HCD layout. I hope I did this correctly.


    [​IMG]
     
  2. BigJake

    BigJake TrainBoard Member

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    George,

    Yes, that is what I was referring to and suggesting. However, you could shift your blue-lined tracks/switch back to the left a bit, and recover the spur track lengths. It just didn't look like it would clear the bridge abutment unless you shifted that leftmost switch to the right a little from its original position. Just play with it a little until you get your spur tracks situated how you like them best.

    I wasn't sure what radius those 15 degree segments were (or even if they were all the same radius), but guessed they were 12.375" radius.

    Note that a 12.375" 15 degree curve on the through exit of a #6 switch will give you a parallel track to the diverging route, at the standard Kato N scale double track spacing. The two spur tracks' ends will also be abreast of each other if you add 1 each 1.75" & 1.125" segments on the diverging exit.

    I just had to experiment in XTrackCAD to figure that out. It is surprising how often that combination of two track segments shows up. They can be combined by cutting down a 4.875" straight section, for fewer joints and nicer appearance.
     
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  3. PapaG

    PapaG TrainBoard Member

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    Yeah, I would move it only the distance necessary to clear the abutment. But I can see how your suggestion has the radius of the dirverging route of the first switch maintained by the radius of the diverging route of the second switch, creating a continuously lefward arc all the way through to that left-most spur, and a single left-hand 15 deg. segment after the straight of the second switch to keep the right-most spur parallel to the other.

    Thank you Andy!
     
  4. BigJake

    BigJake TrainBoard Member

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    George, you're very welcome!

    I think smooth, sweeping curves, and trains travelling over them, look best.

    While a 12.375" radius, 15 degree curve on the through exit gives you the double-track spacing from the diverging exit, a 19" radius, 15 degree curve might look better, and give you a little more room between the two spur tracks, for those "Hand of God" switching moves, particularly for a young God!

    Since this layout is for your young grandson, you might consider putting some grade crossing sections, with built-in re-railers, on the spur/yard tracks, to help him get cars on the track correctly. Nothing is more frustrating for young railroaders than not being able to get cars on the track properly. You wouldn't need to put the ramp pieces on either side of them, just the track sections themselves. Adding cars onto the layout in a yard or on a spur is a good way for him to get introduced to "operations". The re-railer sections (sans side ramps) can double as pretend weight scales too. Then you can then teach him about the load limits printed on the sides of the freight cars (as you reach for your magnifying glass).

    Enjoy!
     
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  5. PapaG

    PapaG TrainBoard Member

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    Hey Andy!
    Here are those changes to the spurs... I like the way those lines flow much better!

    Before:

    IMG_4978.JPG



    After:

    IMG_5029.JPG


    And the rerailers added ;)


    IMG_5033.JPG
     
  6. PapaG

    PapaG TrainBoard Member

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    Work continues on the HCD layout...

    I received a suggestion on how to set up these spurs without creating an 'S' curve to avoid some potential derailing headaches (Thanks Andy!) So, that suggestion was incorporated and I like it much better than the original design. I've also added the rerailers so my grandson can get cars onto the rails more easily. I think this will be an idea incorporated into the yard as well, considering that the yard is right up in front of the layout.

    Speaking of the yard, I found another opprotunity to use turnouts differently than I had it set up to avoid another 'S' curve in the yard, as can be seen in the last pic. You can see where I have the diverging route of that first Right Hand #6 turnout leading into another Right Hand #6 turnout, and where that diverging route creates yet aother 'S' turn. I think I'm going to change the second turnout a Left Hand #6 to create a better line through those switches.

    I was also thinking of using #4's here... does anyone have any advice on those? I see things in discussions that they sometimes need some special attention.

    I've also added some structures that I've been working on just to see how things might fit in the space. I have the rest of the warehouse to assemble that goes with the building with the green AC unit on the roof, so that structure will be quite a bit larger when it's completed. I used a light colored grout on the roof to give the appearance of a gravel roofing material. I really like the way it turned out, and my testing indicates that it will take paint and chalks rather well if that's the direction I go. I'm torn between letting it look like new construction and distressing it a bit.

    I also have a Vulcan Mfg. model that I haven't started assembling yet... that may be something I use rather than the distribution warehouse. But I'll have to assemble the gantry crane portion of that to see how it will lie in the space.

    The other building will serve as a small freight office. I'm still trying to develop the skills associated with the weathering and distressing of these models. It's not nearly as easy as I thought it was going to be! I'm not UN-happy with the results, but I'm not thrilled by how this turned out either.

    The thing I like most about the reimagining of the spurs is that it almost completely solves the problem I created for myself when the spurs paralelled the main line under that girder bridg; which was that any industry I put in this space was going to have it's rear facing the front of the layout. By bi-secting the available space with the spurs I now have room to plant that industry on the far side of the spurs with it's side profile facing front... which is a much better perspective than the other option provided. In addition, I now have more room for roads, parking spaces, fenced in storage areas, and some various accumulation of detritus that you might find along a spur. Completing the main warehouse and getting the Vulcan Mfg. gantry crane section assembled is the next project needing my attention so I can commit to how the space will be used.



    IMG_5029.JPG


    IMG_5030.JPG


    IMG_5032.JPG


    IMG_5033.JPG


    IMG_5034.JPG


    IMG_5036.JPG
     
    Last edited: Sep 15, 2020 at 11:34 PM
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  7. OlyPen

    OlyPen TrainBoard Member

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    Last edited: Sep 17, 2020 at 4:15 AM
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  8. SLSF Freak

    SLSF Freak Staff Member TrainBoard Supporter

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    Are you able to see your image now?

    -Mike
     
  9. mtntrainman

    mtntrainman TrainBoard Supporter

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    From the 'lessons learned' file:

    You might want to add a short section of straight after the track leaves that turnout on the left. You are going to want to get the moving parts of the next turnout that is under that bridge out from under it. IF you ever have to work on the points or any other part of that turnout...it being under a bridge is a Royal PITA.

    [​IMG]

    Like I said...From the 'lessons learned' file. ;)
     
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  10. OlyPen

    OlyPen TrainBoard Member

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    Yes, I am, Mike. Thank you.

    I was trying to post the photo from my phone. I wonder if that was part of the problem.
     
  11. logging loco

    logging loco TrainBoard Member

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  12. logging loco

    logging loco TrainBoard Member

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    Cutting door skin.
    I need to keep the bottom of my dual HCD layout as smooth as possible. All wiring is burried in foam laminated to layout side of door.

    Layout will need to slide over the 200yo wooden handrail out side my small trainroom. I will pad and wrap handrail.
    20181108_153647.jpg

    I need to cut an area through bottom skin to act as a junction box and to mount a Centronics style parallel port connector.

    I've used utility knife before with okay results. I'm not concerned with looks.
    Just wondering what others have done. Has anyone tried an oscillating tool?

    Thanks
     
  13. BNSF FAN

    BNSF FAN TrainBoard Supporter

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    You might try a keyhole saw for a small opening. Drill a hole at each corner and saw away.
     
  14. logging loco

    logging loco TrainBoard Member

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    Thanks.
    You just reminded me I have a very small, fine keyhole style blade from Zona or the like. Probably a little small for a 6" x 6" hole.

    I'm a couple days away from cut, leaning towards masking tape and oscillating tool with very fine blade and skim with epoxy or ca if need be to stop future splintering.
     
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  15. BoxcabE50

    BoxcabE50 Staff Member TrainBoard Supporter

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    It is a possibility. Some phones also have a problem with rotating an upload 180 degrees, so images are completely upside down.
     
  16. PapaG

    PapaG TrainBoard Member

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    Good observation!! God knows I'm making plenty of my own mistakes to learn from, learning from the mistakes of others is a gift!

    I'll have to play with that... I don't want to sacrifice any more of the length of those spurs than absolutley necessary. I might be able to move that first turnout back towards the left to get it out from under the bridge... just so long as the spurs clear the abuttment. Or, as you suggest, some length of straight track between the two turnouts to move that second one to the right.

    Thank you for the wisdom MTM!
     
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  17. mtntrainman

    mtntrainman TrainBoard Supporter

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    You're welcome......

    We all have our book of mistakes.
    Hang around here and you will hear about most of them from the others here. :whistle:
     
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  18. logging loco

    logging loco TrainBoard Member

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    20200919_210221.jpg 20200919_210127.jpg

    I've got the track pinned down and feeders for dual cab DC ran and rang out. I ran short on insulated rail joiners so some of the spurs are power routing for now..

    I know there are several S turns along industrial spurs but I only plan on running switchers and 40' cars. I'm going to test those areas before gluing down track or finishing wiring.
    I should be testing tomorrow.
     
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