H0n3 tracks

swissboy Dec 26, 2007

  1. swissboy

    swissboy TrainBoard Member

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    I thought I'd post this as a separate topic. The original H0n3 thread has gone into a different direction.

    One problem in making narrow-gauge modelling more popular is the paucity of available tracks. No wonder 0n30 has become so much more popular than the true to scale 0n3.

    Basically, there are flex tracks and some switches. It is pretty difficult to build a non-permanent layout with this. As I love the US narrow gauge, but don't have the space for a permanent layout, my models have been sitting idle most of the time. Or they have not even left their box yet.

    Well, meanwhile, I have found a manufacturer in Germany who does produce (among other gauges) H0n3 tracks of different sizes. There are several curves and several lengths of straight track available. This STS (sectional track system) is not exactly cheap, but at least they are available (custom made).
    Here is the link:
    Aspenmodel (c)2005-2006

    The webpage is available in English, German and French. And payment by credit card is possible, with a small surcharge.

    Their production is code 70, thus compatible with my Shinohara flex tracks. Rail joiners must be ordered as well.

    I have ordered a set, but it might take 8 weeks before I can report on the quality of these tracks. So I thought some of you might want to take a look at their web site beforehand.

    Now, if only a supplier of On3 tracks would emerge! I have some models in that scale as well.
     
  2. JCater

    JCater TrainBoard Member

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    Robert, thanks for the info and the link. I will watch for your report on how this track looks and works!
    J
     
  3. BoxcabE50

    BoxcabE50 HOn30 & N Scales Staff Member TrainBoard Supporter

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    Well, aside from the cost of motive power, being largely of expensive brass, which does keep a fair number of folks away, you do have a good point. Although I have never modeled in any of the n3 scales, the idea of hand laying track, regardless of the nice jigs available these days, has simply never been appealing for me. Some folks ldo ike to spend that time. And gain great satisfaction. I'd rather build scenery, models, etc.

    Boxcab E50
     
  4. swissboy

    swissboy TrainBoard Member

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    Rolling stock, at least freight cars, are getting to become more and more available these days, and at relatively reasonable prices. At least considering the degree of detailing they come with. RTR H0n3 is coming from Blackstone and PSC, as well as Micro-Trains. On3, however, is rarer. I only know of San Juan for RTR models, and they are usually sold out very quickly. And with Blackstone K-27s, motive power has become affordable in H0n3, particularly if one does not care for sound versions (they make me nervous if I hear them all the time).
     
  5. Jake1210

    Jake1210 New Member

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    It looks very nice! But I think I'll keep trying my hand-laying brigade... (I soldered a 3' piece of track once, my Blackstone K-27 could run on it, but I don't want that on the real layout. Next up, SPIKING!)
     
  6. BoxcabE50

    BoxcabE50 HOn30 & N Scales Staff Member TrainBoard Supporter

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    Yes. It has come down in cost. But prices are still far ahead of most standard gauge RTR plastic editions. Is Micro-Trains doing HOn3? I thought when the company originally split, the HO domain stayed together with Kadee? N&Z went to the other brother? BTW- I agree about the sound systems. For me, they can get a bit annoying after a while.

    Boxcab E50
     
  7. Stourbridge Lion

    Stourbridge Lion TrainBoard Supporter

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    Jake1210 - Welcome to TrainBoard!!!!!!!

    :tb-biggrin: :tb-biggrin: :tb-biggrin: :tb-biggrin:​
     
  8. BoxcabE50

    BoxcabE50 HOn30 & N Scales Staff Member TrainBoard Supporter

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    Well, I went exploring. Found a listing area on the M-T web site. A surprise for me. Looks like they've offered several cars so far. Anyone seen a review? I'm curious about their fidelity to a prototype.

    Boxcab E50
     
  9. Jake1210

    Jake1210 New Member

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    Well thank you, Stourbridge!
     
  10. swissboy

    swissboy TrainBoard Member

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    I have several of their reefers. They are very nice indeed. So far, they have only come up with lines that don't quite fit my focus on DRG&W. Anything from Alaska or the east and west coasts does not go with it. It's been mostly C&S, actually. MT H0n3 is certainly way over the usual H0 prices, but then, MT in N-scale is also higher than many others. To some degree, it just depends on the detailing or how fine these things are made. In N-scale, I always compare the brake wheels of the freight cars. It is usually just disappointing what others offer here.
    I can't really judge the fidelity of all the H0n3 models, but the reefers look like they are accurate. I think, these days that is the only way for MT to enter the market and to stay in there, as they can't do it via the price. They are about in the same range as e.g. Blackstone.

    I think, when Kadee and MT split, there was basically no H0n3 anybody was thinking about, certainly not for rolling stock. And later on, that part was hardly claimed by Kadee when MT started, I would guess.
     
  11. swissboy

    swissboy TrainBoard Member

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    I posted a separate thread about the couplers. Found out today that they are non-standard. Actually, N scale is being used.

    Is Micro-Trains using wrong size HOn3 couplers? - TrainBoard.com


    One note on the gauge designation. Actually, after the H there should be the number zero and not the letter O. And the same for the O scale; it should actually be a number zero as well. This because there were also scales 1, 2, and even larger ones. With Zero (0), at the time, being the smallest. However, that origin seems to have gone lost completely in the English or at least the American modeling world. So everyone uses the O instead of the 0. And as the H stands for half (German halb)- H0 being half the size of 0 scale - it is clear that H0 has become HO as well. However, in German, at least HO is still called Ha-Null, meaning H0 or H-Zero. This is why this thread has the H0 in its name.

    Note that there is also still an 00 size in England. It is a little bit larger than H0. But certainly Zeros and not Os. Peco seems to have changed the zeros to Os in their catalog, but the letter and the number look virtually the same. Maybe, the British are on the way to covert as well, then.
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Mar 21, 2008
  12. swissboy

    swissboy TrainBoard Member

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    Aspemmodel HOn3 tracks arrived


    I finally got the Aspenmodel tracks I ordered. But I can only give a preliminary report for the time being. It took a bit over 10 weeks for them to be made. When I ordered, they said 8 weeks, now they do say 10. Anyway, these are the only sectional tracks in this gauge which come with fixed curves. But to use them still requires some additional work. Basically, the metall rails are glued on to a wooden tie-base. There are no nail imitations, but that does not really matter in this scale. At least, I find the Shinohara imitations too large. The problem with this construction arises with the rail joiners. The company recommends cutting off the first two ties, and sliding them later underneath. But that method is only feasible for use on a permanent layout. My motivation to get these tracks, however, is to be able to run my HOn3 rolling stock every now and then. I don't have space for a permanent layout, but I like those DRGW old-timer trains.
    So, in order to use these tracks for temporary layouts, the rail joiners should be attached to the complete tracks. Just sliding them on would pry off the metall from the wood. One is specifically warned about that. There is, as for now at least, no provision for those rail joiners. I thus used a small 0.8 mm drill to remove some of the wood underneath the metall rails. Quite a time consuming task, actually. Afterwards, I used a waterproof brown felt-tip pen to repaint the parts where I did damage the brown base. No big problem here. The rail joiners were then slid on and fastened using some cyanoacrylate glue. Time will tell how well this will hold. The first experiences today look promising. I had to open up the rail joiners at the receiving end a bit. Otherwise, they would be pushed back into the track in spite of the glue, though. The tracks match quite well with the Shinohara flex tracks.

    My track set which I received also contains two switches. But these will need some later comment. At present, they are extremely nice looking, but non-functional. In the "frog" area, the left and right rail are joined. This would short circuit on any conventional layout. So isolation is paramount here. I will have to discuss this with the manufacturer.

    One more comment on these tracks: The wooden track base results in some noise when used on a table as I intended to do. The Shinohara plastic base is much better here. Putting some padding like a piece of cloth underneath helps considerably, however.

    I should add, however, that I am nevertheless happy to have these tracks. It's the first time I was able to run a consist for any length of time, and be it only around an oval on the table. It still beats having lonely engines going back and forth on a two meter track.
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Apr 8, 2008
  13. swissboy

    swissboy TrainBoard Member

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    Aspenmodel tracks update

    With respect to the problems I have using the turnouts, I had a discussion in another thread:

    How To Avoid Short-Circuits at Turnouts? - TrainBoard.com

    And today, I had a longer conversation with the manufacturer on the phone. Rather than repeating it all, I refer to post #11 in the other thread. However, I would like to emphasize here how helpful the discussion was. In particular, it seems that it would be possible to have just about any potential wishes fulfilled. I may actually get some sectional curved On3 tracks in the future. They are not on the regular list, but they could be done, apparently.

    One word of caution about the glueing: the tracks should not get heated over about 80 degrees Celsius, lest they come loose. They could be re-fixed by applying about that temperature again while clamping the rail to the bedding. However that process is only reversible a few times, and the glue disintegrates if it gets too hot, like over 120 or so degrees Celsius, if I recall correctly. This means shortening should be done with pliers, not with a saw.
     

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