I've used caboose hobby groundthrows on wood layouts and of course had no problems. I'd like to use foam as my base and foam for sub-roadbed. How do you attach the groundthrow to the foam so that it stays put? Nailing it won't work I don't think... On a similar note - I've used aileens tacky glue in the past to glue down track to foam as it can be soaked off later. Is this sitll the best way to go?
I use a low temp hot glue gun and glue a small piece of cork inverted next the track. I use a couple of tarck nail to hold the throw to the cork http://s90.photobucket.com/albums/k256/ratled/Klamath%20Line/?action=view¤t=DSC01148.jpg I hope this helps ratled
I have used a laxtex chaulk and let it sit for about 12 hrs or more depending on the humidity and have not had a problem yet.
Inlay a small piece of 1/8" plywood or even thick styrene in the foam roadbed before you place your turnout. Size it to encompass the area occupied by the turnout throwbar and the ground throw. Pin/nail through the ground throw mounting holes into predrilled holes in the rigid inlay to hold the ground throw secure. Also consider installing using spring loaded wire links between your ground throws and their throw bars to minimize excessive lateral forces. When installed this way, operating the ground throw induces larger lateral forces on the mounting pins/nails than vertical forces. Therefore, vertical clamping force holding the ground throw to the rigid inlay does not need to very much. I used inexpensive latex painters caulk to adhere track to my foam roadbed. My Rail Images show several construction photos of my foam roadbed and terrain. You'll notice I paint the roadbed with latex paint before laying track. I've had great results.
Will do. I think I'm going for the throws with the positition signals on them. I just have to figure out what turnouts to use...and maybe what flex track Have you had to pull up any track laid this way? I like the idea of using caulk - seems it would be faster/easier.
HV- If you go the caulk route don't use too much. If you look in the picture of my throw you can see examples of right and wrong. I used too much on the 2 center tracks and just the right amount on the 2 outside tracks. This pictures was taken after I moved the turnout on the throw an the siding with box car. Even though I used too much the first time it was easy to pull up. I scraped the extra caulk off the roadbed with the back of an xacto and lightly sanded before putting on the new track. Some of the cork was replaced but this because the route changed. The areas painted gray are only under the turnouts since this area will be less ballasted. ratled
Yes, I've removed and replaced/rerouted track several times. I usually soften the ballast with isopropyl alcohol first. A well placed putty knife readily separates the cured caulk from the foam subgrade. A little more hand work removes the caulk from the track ties. Spread the caulk with a putty knife to a consistent thickness before placing the track. Clearly, it won't do to have it protruding up through your finished ballast.
I glue a piece of styrene (1/2" x 2") under each turnout, directly under the throwbar, protruding at a 90 degree angle. I attach the ground throw to this same piece of styrene, making the turnout and ground throw a self-containing unit, with the ground throw firmly, but indirectly, attached to the turnout. BE EXTREMELY CAREFUL not to glue down any of the moving parts. If this description isn't clear, I'll try to take some photos and post them in the next day or two.
I attach mine to the foam board base using scrap cork roadbed as a base and latex caulk on both the bottom of the throw and the bottom of the cork roadbed. Let it set up overnight and it works great. The latex takes a few hours to set up, so you can move and fine tune the bar and throw position for best results. You can use brads or wire nails to hold the throw in place, and remove these once the latex has cured. The cured latex is easy to slice through with a snap blade knife if you want to remove the throw in the future with no damage. Construction adhesives and epoxies would not allow easy removal-more than likely you would destroy the throw in the process. I have also mounted Caboose Industries switch stands using this method with good results. The latex also cleans up with water. And it's cheap! -Mark
I did something similar to some of the other responders on my dad's HO layout. I used 1/8"x~1"x~3" masonite strips that were glued under the throwbars of the Atlas turnouts (while keeping the throwbars clear). Then I use small wood screws to secure the ground throws to the masonite. So this kind of method (using a stiff, stable piece of material to securely connect the turnout with the ground throw) seems to be common and successful. ---jps
