Floor Wax Clear Coat?

WPZephyrFan Jul 5, 2014

  1. WPZephyrFan

    WPZephyrFan TrainBoard Member

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    So, I'm poking around on You Tube as I like to do, looking for interesting videos on model building. Besides model railroading, I also build model cars and the occasional sci fi models, too. I found a video series by a guy who usually builds Star Wars and Gundam models (giant robots), and he's building his first model car kit. A couple of things he did interested me: first, he uses Pledge Future Shine Acrylic Floor Wax to clear coat his models, straight out of the bottle, including the clear parts (which he dips) and the second was he uses lighter fluid to thin his acrylic paints when he shadows the seams between body panels. Has anyone ever heard of this before?
     
  2. r_i_straw

    r_i_straw Staff Member

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    I have tried Pledge with Future but did not like it for some reason, I forget why. Something to do with decals I recall. I will have to go back and find some posts where I described the issue.
     
  3. WPZephyrFan

    WPZephyrFan TrainBoard Member

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    I'm curious because I've never heard of anyone using it before, especially on clear plastic parts. Usually on clear parts, modelers that I know use a polish for helmet visors. Is it supposed to be cheaper than buying a clear gloss?
     
  4. Eagle2

    Eagle2 Staff Member TrainBoard Supporter

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    Both uses are well established in other modelling pursuits. I know I will dip canapoies and other clear parts in Future, primarily because it improves the appearance and also because (I believe I've read) it helps protect the parts from the "fogging" that the fumes from some adhesives, particularly CA, can cause. I have seen many references in build articles to using it as a gloss clear prior to decalling, but that I've never tried.
     
  5. RBrodzinsky

    RBrodzinsky Staff Member TrainBoard Supporter

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    I have used it for water. You can tint it, and it doesn't creep like WS Realistic Water, or Magic Water. Plus, it hardens. Very easy to make it look deep with thin layers of different tints. And then Modge Podge on top, for surface effects.
     
  6. WPZephyrFan

    WPZephyrFan TrainBoard Member

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    I'll have to give it a try the next time I build a model. I've had issues with the silver paint that I use for chrome trim running a bit when I spray on a clear gloss. I subscribed to the modeler's channel, so I'm going to watch a few more of his videos to see how things come out.
    Rick, would Future work for a small creek with just a bit of water in it? Maybe something like a few damp rocks and whatnot?
     
  7. Locomotion

    Locomotion TrainBoard Member

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    There are a few different formulations of Future out there some better than others, but it is basically a pure acrylic varnish with a few added ingredients, mostly perfume.

    There is a very comprehensive article here... http://www.swannysmodels.com/TheCompleteFuture.html
     
  8. ratled

    ratled TrainBoard Supporter

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    It's been around for years but somehow it never caught on with the Model RRs . Matt's articles is a goo one to save

    ratled
     
  9. RBrodzinsky

    RBrodzinsky Staff Member TrainBoard Supporter

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    Should work real well. While the JACALAR river has a lot more water, this is a Future (with layers of blue, green and brown acrylic tints added), and the Modge Podge on top

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  10. YoHo

    YoHo TrainBoard Supporter

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    I'd never heard of this before
     
  11. YoHo

    YoHo TrainBoard Supporter

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    Ugh stupid phone won't let me edit. I need to remember this. I like the look of epoxy or realistic water, but this sounds less pricey
     
  12. WPZephyrFan

    WPZephyrFan TrainBoard Member

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    From reading Matt's article, Future seems to be an interesting choice to try. Being able to use it straight out of the bottle is a plus. Thanks for posting it, Loco. Rick, that water looks great. I may have to give this stuff a shot.
     
  13. RBrodzinsky

    RBrodzinsky Staff Member TrainBoard Supporter

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    As always, give it a try on a test bed, first. I made about 4 ponds on small scraps of foam, with plaster cloth, etc., to see how everything worked, before actually doing anything on the layout. And, with creeks / ponds, make sure there are no leaks! Any "water" pour will find seams and holes, and turn everything underneath a mess. Especially when it pours right onto your storage drawers.... (Nope, never happened to me, uh uhh, no way, I wouldn't have been so clueless)

    Give 24 hours between layers.
     
  14. traingeekboy

    traingeekboy TrainBoard Member

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  15. YoHo

    YoHo TrainBoard Supporter

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    My concern would be off gassing especially with the perfumes and sealing it under modge lodge. Just like what will happen with craft store acrylics under epoxy/realistic water. That problem might not show up for years though.
     
  16. traingeekboy

    traingeekboy TrainBoard Member

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    I would second that. And how long does it stay clear? It isn't designed to stay on for years on end. I've seen some clear coats that get cloudy over time.
     
  17. WPZephyrFan

    WPZephyrFan TrainBoard Member

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    Personally, I'll stick with a traditional clear for my models. On, some of my car models, I've had a clear get a bit foggy after a few years. Someday, when I get my act together ;) I'll give my airbrush a try and see how things work out that way. I think that when I get around to doing scenery, I might use the Future in a semi dry creek bed.
     
  18. rrunty

    rrunty TrainBoard Supporter

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    Future is all I've used on my models before decaling in the last 10 years or so. I've never noticed any change of color or had problems with it. I've a Walthers HO caboose I did @ 10 years ago , sealed it with Future, and then left it as is to represent a fresh from the paint shop look and it still looks like the day I finished it. Everything else I've done has been weathered but again, no problems. I airbrush it at about 15-20 lbs. On the rare occasion I get a run or don't like the results, a quick rinse with Windex, ( I believe it's the ammonia), quickly removes it, a quick dry and I'm ready to clear again.
    I also flow it onto windows with a brush and I really think it helps with the clarity. Number boards are another place I use it. Two or three coats after they are installed give depth to them.

    Bob
     

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