1. virtual-bird

    virtual-bird TrainBoard Member

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    lookin at my PECO flex track today it has no holes in the sleepers....

    whats the story with that.????

    if tacks aint the go, whats the best way to secure it to the cork?

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    RR:
    K, C, & Bird Butt Railroad - SP, NS, and ROCK admirer.
    Its a coal mining region of a place far far away, that runs, SP, NS, and some CSX..
    Also some Custom RARE Bird RR sd40-2's coming!
    Era:
    Time stands still round these parts, and we have everything from Steam, to Diesels of today.
     
  2. Alan

    Alan Staff Member TrainBoard Supporter

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  3. Robin Matthysen

    Robin Matthysen Passed Away October 17, 2005 In Memoriam

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    Early on I used to use Peco flex track and used small weights to hold the track in place until the ballast dried and secured the track. More recently, I use Atlas flex track and find I seldom use the holes and continue to weight the track to hold it in place while the ballast glue dries.

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    Robin
    Maberly and Tayside
     
  4. sd75mac

    sd75mac Guest

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    My Peco is secured with white glue and water mixture or Liquid Nails.

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    Keep on Track'N at

    www.phcomputing.com

    Harold Riley
     
  5. Colonel

    Colonel Staff Member TrainBoard Supporter

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    Bruce,
    If you buy Atlas flexi track is comes pre-drilled. I used both on my layout without any problem. I predrilled the Peco flexitrack and didn't have any problems. One advantage of nailing is you can pull it up if you are unhappy with it. Once you glued the track down it becomes difficult to remove

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    http://users.bigpond.net.au/railroad2000
     
  6. Maxwell Plant

    Maxwell Plant TrainBoard Member

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    <BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by Colonel:
    Bruce,
    If you buy Atlas flexi track is comes pre-drilled. I used both on my layout without any problem. I predrilled the Peco flexitrack and didn't have any problems. One advantage of nailing is you can pull it up if you are unhappy with it. Once you glued the track down it becomes difficult to remove

    <HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

    I have used both also, but until someone makes a better looking track that doesn't cost an arm and a leg, I'm using Peco. Now about the "nailing and gluing" thing. I wouldn't glue my track down until it's set where I want it. What I do is drill my holes using a moto-tool and drill through the cork at the same time. I then put a track nail in this hole to hold the track down. NOW, CHECK YOUR TRACK WORK! Is it where you want it? Are all the joints close? Will a car roll through it WITHOUT derailing or bumping over the joints? If all answers are YES, weather and ballast the track. Glue the ballast down using whatever technique you prefer. LET IT DRY! Clean the track of loose or "fouling" ballast and clean the railheads of paint and glue. CAREFULLY remove the track nails. The ballast should hold the track in place, just like the real thing. That's it, you're done! At least that's how I do it.



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    BNSF RAILFAN-TO-THE-MAX!
    Brent Tidaback, Member #234 and a N-Scaler to boot!
     
  7. virtual-bird

    virtual-bird TrainBoard Member

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    <BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by Maxwell Plant:
    CAREFULLY remove the track nails.
    <HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

    Thanks people.. Good help is hard to come by these days!

    BUT HERE ARE SOME EXCELLENT options. Looks like I will be drilling and splitting some sleepers yet...

    I think I will do it, but if I go to the trouble Max says, I aint removing the tacks if all is happy.. I dont have the luck that it would be happy after the tacks come out!!!



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    RR:
    K, C, & Bird Butt Railroad - SP, NS, and ROCK admirer.
    Its a coal mining region of a place far far away, that runs, SP, NS, and some CSX..
    Also some Custom RARE Bird RR sd40-2's coming!
    Era:
    Time stands still round these parts, and we have everything from Steam, to Diesels of today.
     
  8. nscaler

    nscaler Guest

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    As an experiment, I have been trying contact cement. Two coats on the cork (it absorbs the cement) and one coat on the back of the ties. Let it dry and then place it down using a technique in the laminate trade. You place something thin (popsicle sticks work nicely) between the ties and the cork. When you are sure a six inch section is aligned right, pull out one stick, press down, and continue. Do only one section of flex track at a time.

    I am wondering if I could put contact cement on the ballast and press it down between the ties, it should mostly stick to itself and the cork, huh?

    Could also be a mess!



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    David
    http://www.geocities.com/nscaler_55
     

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