TJS909 I think you might get more responses about code 65 track if you re-title the post "Atlas True Track" rather than "Figure 8 layout". Just a suggestion, Barry
Thanks Barry, I've seen only 3 responses to Atlas' true track. I too am happy with it. I haven't tried changing the ballast color or painting the rail yet. I wanted to do more with this post than just true track. that's why I didn't go with that title. I also want to do a show and tell of progress and scenery. I'm fairly new at doing scenery so I am trying different techniques......My next post will have a pic and two different methods of ground making.
TJS909, that is really nice work on the trestle over the creek, and I think that is really clever how you built it, using a piece of sectional track as the starting point.
Tom: Really nice job on the bridge. I need to figure out how to get an album on Trainboard or Photobucket so I can illustrate some of the modifications to True track I have made for kerfing for larger curves, spring switches, and wye/reverse loop, independent, electric polarity control. I need to get back to training real railroaders. Barry
Here are two methods of scenery I tried on this layout. on left is foam painted with latex, then sifted dirt glued on with diluted Elmer's white glue. On the right is foam painted with latex and sprayed with flec-stone texture spray. I like the dirt covered scenery better. More realistic.
Here is the 2nd creek crossing I'm working on........Also I'll post pics on an abandonded spur I'm adding.
Hi Tom, I liked the soil rather than the texture spray. Its probably much easier as there is more control. I'm watching this thread and am enjoying the progress and experiments explained.
Tom, I do like the what and how you are scenicing (no there's no such word...until now) grin! Just wanting to throw out a caution here. When using real dirt it's a good idea to bake it. The vector's that crawl around and lay eggs can become annoying as they hatch-out and inherit your layout as a home. I plan on doing something similar when I finally get around to my scenery. What I like using is a home made brand of plaster with some sand added for texture. This gives the surface a rough appearance instead of a smooth feature. From here I can add the natural sand and colors from the mountains and deserts around me. Your work looks good enough to run trains on. cute:
Changing the roadbed color Tom, In the initial post of this thread, you asked about changing the roadbed coloring. Here's something I just tried, with Unitrack, over the weekend: I took some yellow and umber pastel chalk, and rubbed it along each side of the track, then "washed" the chalk using diluted WS Yellow Ocher and Burnt Umber washes. I used the dirty brush, with the excess wash, to dab between the ties (still need some work there). I'm experimenting with either applying a matte varnish, to "hold" the change, or leave as is. So far, un-varnished pieces are holding the color well, with a lot of on-purpose handling. This technique is quick and easy, and should work on True-Trak just as easily.
Thanks John, Barstow Rick, and Rick. I didn't think to bake the dirt. I did go over it with a magnet, so iron bits won't end up in your loco. I'm learning a lot about the foam layout and I really like how it is working out. I'll be working on my taco stand, abandoned spur, small hill with tunnel, gravel pit, farm, and orange grove soon.
Man, that True Track just looks soooo much better than Unitrack! Rick, you did a great job making the weathered track look better than the clean track, but it still just doesn't compare to having the right tie spacing I think. Keep the good up!
I agree Mark. The true track definitely looks better. Anyone doing a US prototype layout should consider the true track. So far I've had about 15 hours of operation with no derailments due to track. No shorts or voltage drop either, with only one electrical connection.
Mark, I'm a Rick and he's Tom and you are Mark. What? What? Well, we've all been confused before...grin! Someone confused Mark and I the other day. And that's ok! What a compliment to each of us. Heck you two guys are the real modelers here. I'm just a lazy good for nothing copy cat, assembler. LOL The Atlas Tru-Track does look good and the spacing looks correct as well. Awesome! I'm not at all crazy about sectional track of any brand. I played with it in HO scale and found the flex track with minimal rail joints worked better for me. You won't mind it much if I stick with it. I use the Atlas Flex code 80 as I still have equipment with the pizza cutter flanges. Besides on a limited budget it fits my pocket book and budget. I do like what I see on Tom's figure eight and wait till you see what he does next.
:tb-err:Actually, I think Mark was referring to me, and what I did on that piece of unitrack. But, that doesn't mean we Ricks can't be confused. According to my teenage daughter, that's my natural state :tb-biggrin:
Teenage daughters...what do they know? I hate to admit it but she (my daughter) had me pegged (figured out) better then her mother (or would admit to). Yep, we Rick's can be confused. Now what was it we were discussing? That's right our natural state. Ok I'm a Californian by birth. No wonder! Uunnuuhh! Funny just to funny! LOL
Sorry I havn't posted updates on this in a couple of weeks. I forget to have the camera handy when doing any new modelling. I also am not excited about my below average photography. Any how, here is the ranch area....
And after scenery applied. I still have to wire the fence and put some grass around the cattle area. Of course small detail too, hay bails, water trough, etc....
