Nice very nice. Regarding the laser. You know we are going to want to see some finished projects. Grin! Funny to funny about "People exiting a freeway". All to true. The best to you.
Well it been awhile and I've have progressed some on the layout and figuring out the laser. First the modifications I've done to the laser. Took out the stuff so I could install the honeycomb bed I made for it. The new bed installed along with the added air assist nozzle. Got the nozzle here. http://www.lightobject.com/18mm-Laser-Head-wAir-Assist-Ideal-for-K40-machine-P701.aspx All I used was the lower cone that the air blows through. I did have to make a ring to fit the 16mm lens that came with the laser into the 18mm hole the new nozzle uses. Here is the honeycomb I use to make the bed. When I make a new bed, I'll be going with 3/8" or 1/4" cause the little parts fall through too easy. http://www.ebay.com/itm/262374763605?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT Next was to change the power pot to a 10 turn for better control of the laser power. Here is the pot I used. I didn't have a knob that would fit the stem of the new one, so instead of going out and buying one, I ended up turning one out of aluminum. Also the amp meter on the laser didn't work when I got it, so being I had to replace it, I found a larger one from the local electronics shop. http://www.mpja.com/1K-Ohm-10-Turn-Variable-Resistor-Linear-Taper/productinfo/30471+VR/ Before With new pot and meter Next post will be how I use it from doing the drawing to making the part.
I'll be using Sketchup Pro 2013 (2016 has a free trial for like 30 days) and Inkscape (free) to get what I draw to the laser. So if you don't want to buy the "pro" version, you can use Shetchup Make (free) with a "pdf" plugin. Now, you all will know how computer dumb I really am. I have no idea how to do a "screen shot" and I'll be using photos of the computer screen. In 2006, I converted a benchtop mini mill to CNC and I tried to learn some sort of CAD program. I had autocad 8 (I think that is what is was) and spent many, many hours trying to learn it, and I never did get it figured out. Fast forward to 2011 when I built my first 3D printer and found Sketchup. With what was on youtube then, I learned it well enough that I was able to draw a DRGW C-16 driver to 20.3 scale in less than two hours. I can draw well enough with it now to draw anything I have ever need to so far. In fact, I guess what I saying here is that just about anybody can learn "Sketchup" and that is what I use for the laser along with the 3D stuff for the CNC router, CNC mill and the 3D printers. I've learned to draw everything in metric, cause that is the only thing the printers will take. So I'll be showing how to take a drawing drawn in metric to what the laser will take. I first added some new folders on my desktop. Sketchup Drawings Sketchup to Inkscape Inkscape to Laser DRW Laser DRW Files My sample, it just two basic little buildings. Now I need to draw a box around it about 3mm from the work. Now that the box is done You need to remember the size of that box so it will be sized right when we take it to inkscape. I just put in the description when I save so that I'll always have it. Go under "camera" and check "parallel view" and "top view" as shown here. Then go under "view" and go down to "face style" and check "wire frame" Under "file" look for "export" and click on "2 D Graphic" In the window that pops up, go the the "Sketchup to Inkscape" folder. Save it as a "pdf". Name the drawing, add the size of the box and then click "export".
Now, you all will know how computer dumb I really am. I have no idea how to do a "screen shot" and I'll be using photos of the computer screen. If I understand your question correctly...doing a 'screen shot' is simple...if you are on a computer and using a keyboard. Simply tap the 'PrtScn' (print screen) key. If on Micro$oft...open "Paint" and paste it in there. Click 'save as' icon in top bar and save as any file type available. *** BTW...Here are a couple FREE programs I find very useful... http://www.faststone.org/index.htm FastStone Image Viewer 5.9...~~ Also has a 'capture' feature built in that will capture various aspects of things on the computer screen... FastStone Photo Resizer 3.6 ********* You might check the menus in your Sketchup Pro 2013 and see if there is a 'Paste' feature in it. That would eliminate a few steps after you use the 'PrtScn' (print screen) method...
Thanks George, This is only the 2nd time in my life that I needed to do a screen shot. I do have a "print screen" button on my keyboard and I'll play with it.
I think I have it figured out. But some of it isn't so clear that I can read it, like the upper left corner where the file name is.
What program are you using to view the screen caps? Most viewer programs have the ability to 'zoom' with a "+" or "-"...much like adobe reader does with PDF's
If you do CTRL - ALT - PrintScreen, then paste the result into a blank doc you will only get the foreground window only instead of the whole screen.
Really GREAT Stuff. You are doing a Great Job...Just fantastic. If your layout is Post Oroville Dam.....James is a Great spot to model. It's just East of Oroville on the new line. There's a fire burning North of the tracks and HWY 70 at Tobin. So far no delays, but 70 was closed for a while. The BNSF is very active in the Canyon heading up the 'Highline'.
Thanks Marty I'm modeling about 1955 and my main focus is the Wye, the loop and Clio Trestle. Oroville and Portola will have a lot more switching than the prototype. There is a coal mine (pit) a few miles NW of Oroville on the new line that I'm going to model too, that wasn't there in '55.
I've been told that you can draw full size (1 to 1 scale) in sketchup and then scale to 160, but I have tried it. It is much easier for me just to draw it to scale. Another, is that you can draw in imperial measurements and import it into inkscape, and then you can export it out of inkscape in metric. Laser DRW is set up for metric, but you can import imperial, but you need to know the "box" size in metric when importing into Laser DRW. Laser DRW will take these files "emf,png,gif,jpg,tif,wmf,jpeg,dib,tiff, and tzy"
OK, Getting back to the subject. Open Inkscape and click on "file", click on "open". Find the file you want and click on it, and a new "Inkscape" window will open with your drawing in it. Go to file again (in the new window with your drawing in it) and go down and click on "Document Properties" It will open on the right side and have this window. Change to measurements to "mm" (or "in" for imperial) instead of "px" in both places. Put you "box" size in the "custom size" box and you'll have something like this. If you don't have the "handles" around your box, click on the arrow in the upper left of the left tool bar and draw a box around it. using the handles, move your box to line up the the inkscape box. Zoom in on the corners and make sure they are aligned like this. Zoom back out and select the whole box again. Open "object" in the toolbar and click on "fill and Stroke". Open the "stroke style" and change it to "mm" and width to "0.02" and hit "enter". The drawing will almost disappear. Unselect by clicking the mouse somewhere on the screen. Go back to "document properties" and uncheck the box "show page border". Select each line of your box and "delete" them separately. Reselect the "show page border" If you imported your drawing in "imperial", you need to change the "custom size" box on the 'document" page to "mm" and remember those numbers, write them down so you'll have them. Open "file" again and select "save as" and in that window, go to bottom to "save as type" and select "emf" Your drawing name and size should already be the the "file name" line. "Save" it in your "Inkscape to Laser DRW" folder. Open "Laser DRW" and in the upper right corner, open "Laser Out Layout". Put your metric numbers in and click "OK" Go to "file' again and to "open". In that window find your file and open. And it is ready to cut. Click on the blue round icon with a flash of yellow, and the cutting window opens. Most of the stuff I've been cutting at 10 to 12 mm/s. Now if you get one of these, I hope I've saved you some of the grief I've went through the last 2 months.
So you don't get the charring on your finish side, face it down. In some cases, you may have to select the "mirror" selection in the laser software to get your cuts to come out right.
