WOOPS! I hate it when I've had time to sleep and then wake up the next day and realise I've mad a mistake. My USRA Heavy "Mike" WASN'T a Southern, the AHM/Rivarossi Southern Mike was painted Green with a Sliver smoke box. Nope, that's not what my "Mike" was dressed in. She wore Basic Black, CB&Q. I got here for Christmas back in 1975 along with a Southern Dinning Car. Hey, Parent's are allowed to make mistakes. "It's PRETTY!" Said my Mom. Dad took me aside and said "I TRIED to tell her..."
Watash, you may have grown older but your eyes are still good!!! First off, I probably should have made a couple points more clear. Thi locomotive is a picture of the one that went off ebay while I was sleeping this morning I don't know what that button is for, it does look to be for a third rail, except that the guy who had it was running it on two rail, so I don't know. I just had John convert this locomotive over to kadde, so I could pull cars with it for a change. I never liked the old ones that much, they separate very easily(at least for me) I shall emailthe guy and ask him. Unless some one else knows. BK
Yep Benny's 0-6-0 Flieshman is sporting the Kadee couplers now and should pull one heckofa string of cars!!!!!!! As long as he has enough cars to make a hugh consist!!!! To even begin to make this little loco actually work!!!! I know it pulled alot in my rail yard at the time of test running!!!!! It pulled all the cars I had settin in my yard at the time because the rest of what cars I have out of their boxes are at my local train club where me and Mike (6206_S1a) does the shows we been talking about for the Maple Festival. The rest of my cars are in foot lockers put away I don't need that many cars at the moment so...... Keep them up and out of the way and not collecting dust... [ 23 April 2001: Message edited by: 7600EM_1 ] [ 23 April 2001: Message edited by: 7600EM_1 ]
Hi all, I have a Fleischmann tank loco that I got in Germany over twenty years ago. It too has that silver button under it. I don't know why. The locomotive runs unbelievably well, but the flanges are too deep for anything less than code 100 I've never figured out how to fix that problem. Maybe one of the Trainboard folks in Europe has the "skinny" on the button? Bobby
Here's a nifty idea, take out the old weight in the cars and replace them with lighter weights but not too light as to cause derailment. I was thinking about melting fishing sinkers to a proper size and weight, then attach them over the trucks inside the cars. My idea is sounding and will probably be alot less weight to have a loco pull, I'd say with the right combination of weights you can pull a 100+ car train with ease.
I asked the gentleman and he said he thinks it might be used to trip accessories and other stuff like that.
Bos, I made a 10:1 pantograph specially camed to turn the RP-25 size flanges on steamer drivers. It worked great on the brass wheels of one engine. The second engine was a Rivarossi. It turned out that Rovarossi only has about .001" thick nickle plated onto their plastic wheels, so it ruined the wheel. The current picpup wipes along the inside of this wheel, so when I cut through the nickle plating, there was no longer any circuit to the motor from the rails. I did some research and discovered all manufactures that I had been buying engines from had been useing those plastic wheels. The only good metal wheels I have are the Varney and Mantua kits bought before 1945. The pantograph was now useless, so I traded it for several engines that were baddly worn. If I still had it, it would only take an hour to turn each pair of wheels for you. I had really smooth switch frogs until then. (Like a real frog, the flange rides across the rail gap on the root of a frog, which I had duplicated on mine.) Now I have milled the root deeper to clear all those ungodly long flanges and the engines and cars all hop and jiggle across the frogs again, like they do on an Atlas #4. But they run at least. Benny, I got some track at a garage sale one time that had some contact rails between the gauge. They were to operate a set of crossing gates. He said when the engine went over these the gates came down and stayed until the engine went over a second set. Maybe that is what the button is for?
Watash, I have a question for ya. I am in the process of changing all my Athearn Passenger car wheels I have to brass ones. It just plain out looks better and runs alot better as well. But anyway I'm short a hand full of wheels. The ones I need are the same size in diameter as Athearn's freight car wheels but only they're brass. I don't like the steel wheel and the steel axle with a plastic wheel on my pasengers cars. The steel axle with 2 YES 2 brass wheels, that one is isolated. Let me know if you can be of help. These wheels i'm looking for are the older Athearn wheels and even today MDC "roundhouse" uses them. Drop me a line in my inbox if you may be able to lend me a hand. THANKS, And also anyone else that may be able to help is welcome to as well just e-mail me at: yellowstone10@hotmail.com THANK YOU in advanced.... [ 26 April 2001: Message edited by: 7600EM_1 ]
