Door layout

Mo-Pac Mar 29, 2020

  1. Mo-Pac

    Mo-Pac TrainBoard Member

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    @Shortround I have already bought the hollow core door. It is the 1" & 2" foam board that underlines the issue.
     
  2. Mo-Pac

    Mo-Pac TrainBoard Member

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    Well, it looks like I will have to buy two 3/4" foam boards. There aren't any 1" thick ones to be had at Lowes in my area let alone 2". Although Home Depot has the 1" the problem is they are in Biloxi I am in Pascagoula. Unless they will allow me to score the material to size? 4x8 will not fit in my car. But the door can. Although Home depot has this https://www.homedepot.com/p/STYRO-In...2102/203929088
    three sheets that I will run me $82 and change[​IMG] either way. https://www.homedepot.com/p/STYRO-I...-Grey-Foundation-Panel-SFL-200-2103/203929090
    Though this is free shipping to my house.[​IMG] Though I will have to wait until the 23rd of September:sick: regardless which one.
     
    Last edited: Sep 4, 2020
  3. Mo-Pac

    Mo-Pac TrainBoard Member

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    Well, I found 1 1/2" at one of the local lumber supply companies. This will work great with plenty depth to carve the turntable and if needed creek beds. My next update should be about the assembly of the foam board and the door with gorilla glue and anchoring it to the table. Of course with spacing in-between the table and door.
     
  4. logging loco

    logging loco TrainBoard Member

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    Did they estimate how long it would take to come in? I'm almost ready to start carving some scenery.
    Tan would be nice for not showing gouges or little pieces left behind from scenery modifications.
     
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  5. Mo-Pac

    Mo-Pac TrainBoard Member

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    Well, my uncle gave me a reference to an lumber store in his town, not too far from my town. I found 1 1/2" R7 foam board. this will work! It's not too much and not too less.
     
  6. logging loco

    logging loco TrainBoard Member

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    OK. Thanks.
    I've got a mix of pink and blue off cuts I'll probably stick with.
     
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  7. Mo-Pac

    Mo-Pac TrainBoard Member

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    Well, I was able to find 1 1/2" foam board. At an lumber warehouse about 40 mins away in Ocean Springs today. I can say I officially started working on my layout. I took photos of each step I took. Once I had the foam board sized to the door. I did the calculation to get the door centered with the table I drilled the four holes for the 1/4-20 6" carriage bolts. With wing nuts to the bottom of the table.
     

    Attached Files:

  8. Mo-Pac

    Mo-Pac TrainBoard Member

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    Second set of photos
     

    Attached Files:

  9. logging loco

    logging loco TrainBoard Member

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    223524-aeb00d456138efb644ade199b609b926.jpg

    Thanks for taking time to photograph each step.

    Mounting directly to the table is a great idea, much easier than attaching legs directly to door. The bottom of the table looks like it was actually molded for the purpose of mounting something there.

    Are you going to leave the gap between table and door?
     
    Last edited: Sep 6, 2020
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  10. Mo-Pac

    Mo-Pac TrainBoard Member

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    Thanks for mentioning this. It looks like a posted one of the photos too many times. Here’s the photo of the carriage bolts through the top of the door. I didn’t photograph the underside of the table. Because I will eventually get some more washers for the wingnut side. I didn’t notice the holes in the bottom of the table until I was ready to drill for the 1/4-20’s. So I used them. The table is the Lifetime series 6 foot table and it’s 30” wide. Yes I am going to leave a gap. For wiring purposes and if I have to transport it in the future. The foam board between the door and the table are not permanently attached. They are there for weight transfer and safety. If I need to move it to run wiring this will not be any issue.
    [​IMG]


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
     
  11. logging loco

    logging loco TrainBoard Member

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    Killer grain in the door veneer.
    Nice that the holes were already in the bottom of the table.

    Do you have to tighten beyond snug so the door doesn't shift around on the slipery table?
    I used rubber cup style floor protectors between the shelves and door not only to keep from sliding until clamped, but also for leveling shims.
    The house is 200yo and floors are not perfectly level.
     
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  12. Mo-Pac

    Mo-Pac TrainBoard Member

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    Believe it or not, the door side isn't the issue because I used foam board for spacing. The issue is the wing nut side. It started to bend the plastic table inward. I will need washers on this side for sure. The hole I drilled was a fraction over 1/4" to allow for the bolt to slide into position without any wiggle. When I drilled the holes into the table and door at the same time. I choked up on the drill bit to allow enough of the flute to drill through both without hitting the hardwood floor. I used the pieces of the foam board to raise the door off of the floor. So I will not have an oops.
     
    Last edited: Sep 6, 2020
  13. Mo-Pac

    Mo-Pac TrainBoard Member

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    I did forget something. Here is the updated door pattern.
     

    Attached Files:

    • Door.png
      Door.png
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  14. logging loco

    logging loco TrainBoard Member

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    Nice track plan.
    No track over carriage bolts?
     
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  15. logging loco

    logging loco TrainBoard Member

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    Sounds like you might need some sleeves in the holes also. I wouldn't think you need anything with a heavy wall. Whats the ID of a stck pen? maybe that would work.
    If the gap isn't to big some RTV squirted in the gap would work. Put a piece of dowel in the holes and drill the dowel out when cured.
     
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  16. Sumner

    Sumner TrainBoard Member

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    First, bet you are really happy to be in the construction stage :). If is going to be fun following along on this.

    I imagine you know about the easy to find (normally) fender washers. I'll bet they would work in this situation. Are the bolt heads secured to the door enough that they won't turn later if you need to remove the wing nuts? It not maybe epoxy would be enough to hold them snug.

    Keep the pictures coming,

    Sumner
     
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  17. logging loco

    logging loco TrainBoard Member

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    20200906_120039.jpg Eventually I will need to somehow bolt my HCD to the shelves.
    Here is a picture of the floor protectors.
     
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  18. logging loco

    logging loco TrainBoard Member

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    Will bolts sticking out the bottom be a problem if you remove the table to transport layout?
    Fender washers with holes filed square and glued to layout top would prevent bolts from turning but still be removable if needed.

    Tack on style tee nuts on epoxied to bottom of door might be an option also. That would eliminate any hardware on top side of door.
     
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  19. Mo-Pac

    Mo-Pac TrainBoard Member

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    The 1 1/2” foam board will be glued to the top of the door so no to this.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
     
  20. Mo-Pac

    Mo-Pac TrainBoard Member

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    This I don’t know. All I am planning on doing is adding washers then glue the foam board to the door. I will mark the area. So I will not accidentally drill the carriage bolts.


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