Domino Layout Construction Pros & Cons

riverotter1948 Dec 25, 2006

  1. riverotter1948

    riverotter1948 TrainBoard Member

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    After a long absence from model railroading, about two years ago I was able to "pick up the thread" and re-enter the hobby, building a respectable 8x16 HO layout in one bay of my three-car garage.

    I have learned a lot from this project, and, having reached the limits of what I can "tweak" on this layout, I am preparing to demolish it and start fresh on my next layout in early 2007.

    One of the concepts I have been strongly attracted to is the "domino" method of construction advocated by David Barrow.

    I'd like to hear from anyone who is interested in the domino approach to layout design and construction -- advocates, railroad modelers with experience using this technique, opponents, whomever.
     
  2. BALOU LINE

    BALOU LINE TrainBoard Member

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    I happen to be a big fan of modular or domino design. David Barrow's concept has been a huge influence in that. David was working in HO like you, but I have applied the concept to N scale quite easily. Because I am not a home owner having something that can be moved and fit into different room dimensions is a very attractive idea. Often it is easy to plan a layout that is much bigger than we can reasonably complete. By using a modular idea sections can be completed without the intimidation of 'finishing' the whole layout. Expansions can be added easily without disturbing existing operations. I have found that hollow core doors make great "sections" to work with. I am using bi-fold closet doors (available in 12"and 18") for along the wall shelf sections. Wider doors will be used for yards and peninsulas. Recently Woodland Scenic has introduced a modular system that I plan to use for corner sections and end piece turn arounds. The primary drawback to the concept that I have found is that it is difficult to avoid running the tracks parallel to the layout edge.
    Here is a shot of the two sections I'm currently working with.

    [​IMG]
     
  3. L Lee Davis

    L Lee Davis TrainBoard Member

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    I am in agreement with what John has said about modular layouts, Although with S curves and scenery you can augment that parallel feeling that tends to dominate modular construction. I find you can plan in viginettes that can be incorperated into a much larger plan as space, money and time become avalibable. I am also a fan of L Girder on modular which can offset that stright line feel. My small eight 4' x 32" modules are easy to brake down and set up without too much fuss on scenery and track, And now that I got the word from the morgage co. I will be building a structure for the trains. A 32' x 60' building with a shop, bathroom and lounge. It will have about 294 feet of main line with hidden layover track and rettia loop. so when this is built I can get trains up and running quickly which helps keep the intrest up. BTW John, I really like your layout.
     
  4. ppuinn

    ppuinn Staff Member

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    L Lee Davis:
    Pics please, if you've got some?
     
  5. nodima

    nodima TrainBoard Member

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    So what are you all using for track joiners between sections? During my recent move, I discovered that just cutting the rails at the section break did not work out 100%. This topic will come up in my future as well.

    Thanks
     
  6. BALOU LINE

    BALOU LINE TrainBoard Member

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    Thanks Lee!
    For joining sections I follow the practice on the Ntrak crowd and use a sleeper track (short section) that is lightly held in by balast. Joiners are not soldered. In theroy this should allow disasembly/reasembly with ease. In actuality I haven't tried this but the Ntrakers do it all the time so I have complete faith in the design concept.
     
  7. L Lee Davis

    L Lee Davis TrainBoard Member

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    Your welcom John. I hand lay track and use two pieces of rail about eight inches long with ROW rail joiners that I respike to ties at joint sections. I have to R&R a couple of ties and reballest and senick but not that big a deal. I am not really happy with the look I get, I am thinking of a piece of steel tack soldered on the bottom of rail. I'm gonna play around with it when I find the time. As soon as I learn to post pictures on trainboard I will up load some picxs. you can see some of my work on P48, O scale, Painting Locos & Structures, and Scenery Yahoo Groups. At this time I only have four of the modules set up in a spare room with back drop, lighting and valance. The other four are in storage. A political compremise with the powers that be.
     
  8. L Lee Davis

    L Lee Davis TrainBoard Member

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    Dave take a look at my photo gallery, I up loaded some picxs of the old and the new modules.
     
  9. riverotter1948

    riverotter1948 TrainBoard Member

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    Update 1-24-08: I've acquired a substantially larger train room since my first post in this thread, and I'm expanding my exploration of "domino" modules: I'm going to use some 24" wide hollow-core doors as "dominoes" to expedite construction. True, they're not as light and portable as David Barrow's 2' (or narrower) x 4' dominoes, but they're simpler, easier, and faster to put together. Also, I have found that using 80" doors lets me think in larger terms, i.e., complete Layout Design Elements on one module.
     
  10. BALOU LINE

    BALOU LINE TrainBoard Member

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    Keep in mind that Woodland Scenic now offers Mod-U-Rail system with a 3'x3' corner unit that works quite nicely with the narrow hollow core doors ;)
     
  11. davec

    davec TrainBoard Member

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    Thats a really nice module. I am planning something similar. Most impressive!
     
  12. davec

    davec TrainBoard Member

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    I was wanting to use this same concept myself. I wanted something on casters so if I needed to move it I could. This would be better than tearing it apart and having some end up in a dumpster.It would also preserve the garage to be reconverted for a future owner. I also wanted something that might fit in a different space just by moving dominoes around. I also needed shelves to store my boxes of trains and kits untill I could use them. I am going to put the 6 ft dominoes on top of this. I am still playing with the height. I can trim then down for a staging yard underneath and add a second level. or use risers to to increase the track height on a single level.The hard part is that the garage floor is not level. It slopes down from the inside to the entry so water can drain. I may have to devise a way to make the "L" girders adjustable to level things.
     

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  13. davec

    davec TrainBoard Member

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    I am going to use copper pipe that fits tightly inside one another to line things up. Then use carriage bolts to clamp it together. In the staging yard I may use rerailer sections between the joint. I have seen guys use a little section of flex track at the joint. There was an article in Model Railroader that shows installing brass wood screws at the joint directly under the rail and then soldering the rail to the screw head to keep things aligned. I guess you could also use a mtal plate to solder the rails to as well.
     
  14. davec

    davec TrainBoard Member

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    These are some benchwork details for the module bases and shelving.
     

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  15. riverotter1948

    riverotter1948 TrainBoard Member

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    I've been experimenting with 24" wide hollow core doors as dominoes. Pro #1: not so many joints. Con #1: a little on the heavy side.
     
  16. Wolfgang Dudler

    Wolfgang Dudler Passed away August 25, 2012 TrainBoard Supporter In Memoriam

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    My new Westport is built in this style. And I have built quite a few modules. That's like dominoes.

    Wolfgang
     

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