Has any one used the Digitrax DN163l0 in their SD40t-2's? I hand soldered one in to my SP TM and it works fine, however I have several problems on both of them and I'm looking for a little advice. Both decoders have the kaptan tape on the front by the screw like the instructions call for the first thing I noticed is the front LED is about 1/16" long so it forces the front light shroud out. Has any one noticed this? When I tried to program (NCE) the leds flash when I move into program but none of the CV's can be read. When I enter a value the LED's flash but when I enter run mode on one I can turn on the light but no motion, the 2nd one no light or movement. When I attempt check program all CV's can not be read. I took a programed locomotive from the fleet and it runs fine. Any ideas what my problem might be? I decided to post here not getting any reply in the DCC forum. Update I looked at the decoder and the front motor tab is not even close to the pad on the decoder, has anyone noticed this if yes how did you get around the miss match? Thanks any one Steve
Do you have an NCE decoder in your TM ? I had some issues installing mine but can't remember exactly what. I will take a look at it and let you know. I have a digitrax decoder that will fit these, I wonder if it is the same problem as with the SD60's?(Motor contacts)
I had issues witht he NCEs in mine. I have 2 installed. Aside from the tedious motor tabs int he circuit board, the install is really easy. The problem, is getting juice to the board. I ended up taking the small phosphor-bronze shims (the ones about 3/16" long, and about 1/16" wide, really thin) that spring the stock rapido couplers on most engines. I remove them when converting to MT's, so it's no loss anyways. I cut them in half with a Xuron ultra-flush cutter, and fold each piece in half, to about a 30 degree angle. I make 4 total. I stuff one under each corner of the board where the board is held into the frame. It works to allow juice to flow, and keep the board from loosening. Plus, you don't have to try to add more solder to the contact pads on the board, nor smash the frame corners to allow a tighter fit of the board. Does that make a lick of sense??
Hemi, I usually solder the contact pads, But that sounds like a good no solder fix! I too hate the motor contact pads on the NCE decoders! A BIG PAIN!
Well you know after all of the problems I had getting one of "those" decoders in to a Atlas SD60 I decided to never try again, then I figured (wrong) that maybe the new ones would fit better. I will just by the solder in type for these from now on, hard to believe that they are easier and work every time as long as you dont let the smoke out. thanks all Steve
