Stupid question, but... When you are using DCC instead of CAB control the same rule about isolating the left track from the right and vice-versa still applies right? As well as isolating between turnouts, etc?
To expand on the wiring a little bit. You must keep your rails separate, just like DC. Also the same rules apply to reverse loops and turntables. Anyplace you would have a short on DC, you will have the same short with DCC. So what are the advantages to DCC? You don't need as many blocks, but it might be helpful to isolate a few blocks so you can park a locomotive there and shut off the power to the track. You also don't have to throw a block control switch to allow another train to come through behind you. A large misconception about DCC is that your wiring problems will go away. If anything you will have to do more wiring. Unless you already have a 14 or 16 gauge bus wire and at least 20 or 22 gauge drop wires some rewiring may be in order. DCC puts out more current than other regular DC power supplies. Therefore you need heavier wire. You will probably also go out and buy some short circuit protection modules to help prevent an occassional short from shutting down your system or damaging locomotive decoders. So what is the clear advantage to DCC? Control! You can run two or more decoder equipped locomotives going in different directions in the same block. You run your trains just like the prototype. You don't have reset the block for someone else to enter. You can program power curves in your locomotives so your Athearns, P2Ks, Atlas and Kato locomotives can run together at same speed in one consist. You can add special effects like sound, turning your headlights on and off as well as beacons and ditch lights. Don't get me wrong, I am not against DCC as I have a system myself and love running it. You just have to know what you are getting into. You will be spending money to get into DCC. The entry level system price is just the beginning. You will be buying decoders and other items as well. An average home layout of let's say 10 x 10 for HO scale, set up for two or more operators will cost you around $500. Decoders will cost you anywhere from $15 to $40 dollars. For sound decoders tack on at least an additional $100 to the above prices. Also keep this in mind. When you buy DCC, you have to approach it like you are buying a car. Do your research on the model and accessories you want. Like most car dealers, most DCC dealers/manufacturers are going to tell you what they want you to hear in order to make a sale. Also most people who bought DCC will tell you it's the greatest thing since sliced bread, you know misery loves company. Maybe I am being a little harsh. Anyway do your research, if you cut and paste my website address below and point your browser there, I have posted most of what I have learned about DCC, on that site. Also I belong to the DCC webring, which will take you to other DCC websites. Also check out the NMRA, but beware, the NMRA site may go into more detail than you will ever need. I have gone on long enough, but if you just have a small home layout, and are happy with the two or 3 cabs you have controlling it, you may not want to take the DCC plunge. You have to ask yourself: Do I have other operator's over to my layout or go to another person's layout? Do these operator's or layout's have DCC or plan to get DCC? How many locomotives do I want to convert to DCC? Do I have the time and comfort factor to do it myself or will I pay someone else about $35 plus the price of the decoder to install it. Do I have an existing layout or am I going to rip it all out and build new? The bottom line is money, time and your enjoyment. If you haven't checked out a DCC layout, check one out. Don't think of DCC as a cure-all for your layout wiring problems. A lousy DC wired layout will still be a lousy DCC wired layout. A lousy locomotive on DC will still be a lousy locomotive on DCC. Good Luck
