I'm sure this kind of question gets asked a lot, but I couldn't find much on it so here goes. I'm building a 4'6" x 8' lay out and I want to use curved switches to length a passing siding and make a little more room for a switching area. I'm using Atlas track now and I though they made curved switches, but I couldn't find anything on their website or on several online stores. Does anyone know if Atlas makes them. If so, where can I buy them? If Atlas doesn't make them I can use Walthers/Shinaro or Peco. Which is better? I've heard some people who didn't like the Walther's stuff. Right now I'm using code 100, but it's not to late to go code 83. John Bursi
Asking which switch is better is just opening a can of worms. Everyone has their preferences. They are only as good as the installation basically. So who ever makes a curved switchs that fit your needs go ahead & use them. You can also make your own by cutting the small plastic strip between the ties thats under the rails. Only the straight sde needs 2/b done.
I won't touch the who makes a better turnout - but it is important to note that Peco and Walthers/Shinohara are wired differently. IIRC the Alas TOs are wired like Peco Insulfrog TOs so that might be a good reason to go Peco - however if you are using Atlas Cd 83 track, then you may want to use Walthers as Peco is Cd 100 or Cd 75. Anyway - my 2 cents on curved TO's - these are very difficult to install correctly because neither leg has a straight section to line up with a tangent track. You have to eyeball it to avoid getting a kink in the joint at either end. I normally don't solder track to a TO, but for curved TO's it helps. A kink in the joint will make a curved turnout (by any manufacturer) unreliable. So take care with them!
I have used the Walthers turn-outs on two layouts now. On my current layout, I have several curved turn-outs. They work well. The trick I have found is to plan and be careful when laying the flex track away from the curves. Work with it, plan, and be sure the flex track SMOOTHLY continues the curve. With success, I have soldered the track to the curve end of the turnout. To do this, you have to leave the OPPOSITE end of the flex track UNsoldered such that curving the flex wont then distort the curved turn-out. GOOD LUCK!!!!!! Kitbash
Thanks for the info. I probably shouldn't have asked which is better. I've seen some people almost come to blows over that. I'll check into the Peco code 100, but no one said if Atlas made curved turnouts or not. I guess since it's not on their website they don't make 'em. Thanks again for the information.
AFAIK, Atlas has never sold curved turnouts. Good luck. This topic has interesting timing, Wednesday night I was laying the diverging route through a Peco Curved TO
Yankinoz, Actually, Atlas has sold curved turnouts in the past. Of course, I'm talking about 25 years ago. I used to have an Atlas brass curved turnout on a railroad I built in high school. I installed it because of a lack of room. I think Atlas quit making curved turnouts when they updated to the Mark III line about 1980. FYO. Pat
Ebay had several Peco curved turnouts listed Sunday night, so may still be available. The only thing I notice about a Peco, is it is equipped with a snap action spring that holds the points tight against the running rail when set to either side. That is good.
Actually, it is very easy to remove the turnout point spring later on, if you would ever decide on using a slow moving switch machine like Tortoise. Kind regards Wilbert
Actually, I considered it. I've been interested in handlaying track for a while. I like the look of it much better. I bought the new(er) book from Kalmbach, Trackwork and Lineside Detail. The chapters (articals) on handlaying made it very clear. I even felt like superelevation was not such a mystery. However, I've have been unable to find a well stocked suppiler of supplies. One store in New York even discouraged me from handlaying altogether. They used the Micro Engineering arguement. You know, Micro Engineering has the best detail, even the smallest spikes are out of scale, etc. I still would like to handlay track eventually. However this is my first layout. Right now I plan to get the track up so I can get trains running. This layout is a learning experiance. My final after several years of airchair modeling, as it were. Once I've got some scenery and structures up I can go back and handlay track. The curved switches are for the reversing loop and a passing siding. Once things are up and running I can re-lay a section at a time and add sidings.
Hi Bill, Yes, I do. While it is true that Micro Engineering track looks better than handlaid, the infinate flexibility of handlaying can't be beat. I've come to the point where I handlay all my turnouts but use some flextrack, particularly for straight runs. Handlaid turnouts work much better than any commercial ones I've ever tried. One thing I noticed lately is I overuse curved turnouts now that I can make them fit any location. I never measure frog angles, so have no idea what sizes I'm laying. I just lay out centerlines for both routes, lay down Homabed roadbed, then use a length of flex track to mark where the tie ends should be. Glue down the headblock ties, and the rest of the ties from there, increasing length of ties in 1 foot increments. I spike in the two stock rails then form the frog in place. I gap the frog and wire the points to the adjacent stock rail. Frog is powered thru microswitch as usual, and I have no problems with contact. Anyone who is even slightly interested in handlaying should try it, after the first couple you'll be up to speed. Gary
Sorry I too so long to respond to your post Gary .. I just now found it again. I used to use spikes but after reading an article in MR about using foamboard roadbed and hot glue .. I decided to give it a try. It is soooo easy and much more faster than trying to push in spikes, and there's no more spikes that work themselves out and cling to the magnetism produced by the motor in the powerunits, or, no more flanges bouncing over the head of a spike. JBP .. I know the thought of handlaying rail is daunting, but do not be intimidated. I think you will be pleasantly surprised when you find out just how easy and handy it is to lay your own rail and turnouts. Good luck.
Bill, Can you give me details on using the hot glue? I never have had problems with spikes working loose, oldest track on current layout is about 2 years old. Are you saying you use hot glue to fasten ties to foam? And then the rails to ties? I would appreciate details. Thanks, Gary
Hi Gary, The foamboard is cut to fit the curved or straight wood subroadbed and use Elmers' Carpenters Wood Glue to fasten the foamboard to the subroadbed; Then, using a diluted solution of Elmers glue, lay the ties on the foamboard; Hot Glue Gun: I cut a notch on both sides of the end of the receptical where the glue comes out of the gun to fit the base of the rail(s) I plan to put down, (code 80 and code 55). When your glue gun is hot enough to dispense the glue, hold the rail in one hand and place the base or it in the notch. Feed the glue slowly as you draw the rail along the tip of the glue gun, leaving a thin film of glue. You will probably have some globbs at first until you get the rhythm down right. There's no hurry to get the rail on the ties ... in fact, you can apply the glue to several rails and set them aside until you are ready to use them. At that time, place the rails on the ties using at least two rail gauges while you center them on the ties. When you are satisfied with their position(s) run a hot soldering iron along the top of the rails. This will melt the film of hot glue and set the rails down solid on the ties. (I hope you have sanded the ties to be consistant with each other first ). I use a large socket wrench from my tool box as a heat sink so that collateral heat does not cause the rail to move as I apply more heat to the rails as I move along the project. This works equally as well when building turnouts. Once you try this method and get it down pat, you will be very happy with it, I'm sure.
Thanks Bill, That's very interesting. You've answered each of the questions that came to mind about difficulties I would expect to encounter. Actually, it is similar to the method I use for code 55, where spikes really can't be used due to flange clearance. Which is the use of Pliobond applied to rail bottom and same method of applying heat. I think I will stick to spiking, but you never know. Another method for the arsenal! Thanks again. Gary
Gary, Can Pliobond be reheated to make subtle adjustments to track gauge, etc ? I have heard of it but never tried it. It's my understanding that it is a rubber like glue, is that correct?
I didn't realize that this thread was still going. Looks like I created a monster. Ok, you're selling me on hand laying. I'm using a Woodland Senic 4% grade. It's made of foam and I didn't think handlaying would work since there wouldn't be enough for the spikes to get a firm hold. This glue method sounds intriguing. Could you explain a little more about heating the rail and how you get it to hold it's shape. Trackwork of any kind is not my strong suit and I tend to be heavy handed. I've melted many a plastic tie trying to get a good joint. Where do you put the heat sink? At the opposite end of the rail from the soddering iron? How do you hold the track in gauge while you heat the rail, especially on a curve? Do you still spike turnouts? Who is a good supplier of ties and rail, and are they well stocked? You've almost got me converted. John Bursi Jackson, MS
Bill, Yes, Pliobond is a rubber based adhesive. I really don't want to promise that it can be repeatedly adjusted, I only have used it on code 55 rail laid on industrial spurs. Prior to laying, I file in slots across the rail head every 39 scale feet, sometimes put in a slight kink at the simulated joint. I vary the gauge between max and min clearances to obtain the look of industrial trackage buried in cinders and dirt. I was able to correct gauge the few times I needed to. I have never laid mainline track which sees heavy use withe this method. And no turnouts. I am sure you have way more experience with the glue method than I do. John, As I just wrote, Bill can probably give you a better answer about keeping rail in gage while glueing. I used three point gauges to hold the rail in place and a soldering iron to heat the rail to soften the glue. I used an occasional temporary spike also. In regard to your questions about melting plastic ties, when handlaying you will be glueing down wood ties, so this is not a problem. However, for soldering leads to track with plastic ties, or sections together, different people do things different ways. I will tell you my way, others will tell you it's a bad idea. Rather than a soldering iron, I use a soldering gun, not sure of the wattage, but it's a Weller, at least 150 watts. I use no heatsink. Tin the wire and the rail. Hold the wire against the rail and heat the joint quickly, remove heat. Done. I have found the heatsink drains heat away from the area preventing a quick operation. The application of heat for a longer time will melt the ties. Ditto for a smaller wattage iron, it takes longer to heat the joint sufficiently. My thought is to reach the heat required to melt the solder asap, and remove the heat immediately. I rarely melt a tie. I do tend to solder joints between track sections while a tie or two are removed, then slide ties with the fishplate detail sliced off beneath the joint. As far as how to file rails for turnouts, there have been several articles over the years on handlaying, the one I liked best was by Tony Koester and appeared in MR several years ago. Sorry I can't be more specific. I understand it was reprinted in a Kalmback book as well. Good luck, Gary
I've got another question (ok, several questions) about this glue method. How do you keep the rail already glued down from shifting when you sodder on the next piece? It seems that the last piece that was put down would move when it was heated to sodder on the next rail. Do you temporatily spike down the end of the rail? Do you hold it in place with the gauges and maybe some weights? Also, what do you think about a slight super elevation on a 26 in. radius curve? Is the raduis to small? Does anyone think it would cause cars to bind on each other? I'm still looking for a distributor who carries rail. Walthers listed ties in their latest sale catalog (Terminal Hobby shop) but no rail. I found an auction on ebay with what looks to be about 50 ft. of code 83 or 70 rail, so I'm watching that. You guys also mentioned gauges that you use. It didn't sound like you were talking about the Kadee gauge for checking wheels and track. Is there a company that sells the kind of gauges you use? Ok, enough. I'm gonna wear out my welcome. Thanks for the info. John Bursi
