First off, I have nothing in n scale, not even a box car. So basically I starting out fresh in n scale. Recently I moved and now I have a space for a layout (3'x6'). I know it's a small area but my last apartment didn't even have that much spare room. Also that's why I decided to switch to n scale. I haven't really picked out a track plan yet, but I'm hoping I can one loop so I can just the trains go round & round if I want to and for it have a nice switching area. I'm going to have set in the midwest in the 50's -60's. I really like GP-7's and the alco rs series. Who makes any good versions of those? Are any of those made that can be somewhat easily converted over to use dcc? In the future I'm going to try to go over to dcc but for now I think I'm just going to use a plain old dc pack that I have laying around. What companies make good running rail cars that are somewhat cheap (under $15)? What kind of couplers work good? Also what kind of track would you recommend? Thanks for any help. Joe
First off Mustangman79 welcome. I am a recent addition to the TrainBoard but I have been in model railroading for about 10 years. I have flipflopped between HO and N scale but I believe I will press forward with N scale. Anyway, there are numerous links to obtain information for a layout. I would start by subscribing to Model Railroading or Railroad Model Craftsman magazines. I would go to the NMRA website http://www.cwrr.com/nmra/ and check out the N scale layouts. As for the GP-7s and RS units, you can go to Atlas Railroad Company (also on the NMRA website) to look at the locomotives. I like to purchase my locomotives and other equipment from Brooklyn Locomotive Works (website) and M.B. woo woo woo (no website, advertisement in magazine) just to name a couple. As for DCC, I am not familiar with this subject. The best couplers are Micro-Trains Line couplers. Atlas track is good and Peco switches (I prefer insul-frog). Insul-frog is easier/quicker to wire. Keep in mind this is just my opinion and I am sure others will be on-line to share their experience. Good luck and I hope you have many hours of railroading enjoyment.
Dude, you came to the right place!!!! First off, Kato and Atlas make great engines, BUT Lifelike is really caught up to the modeller's tastes. They make CHEAP locos that run like Katos at half the price! Ebay always has deals on LL locos: the ones to go for are: SD7/9, SW9, SW1200, GP20, among others. The ones I listed, I tried,a nd love them. The GP20's are awesome runners, and smoooooooth operators. I have 3, and wouldn't part with them. The Katos are always good runners, by virtue of the maker. Atlas is good stuff as well, but steer clear of Atlas locos made BEFORE 1987. The post-1987 locos were made in part by Atlas and Kato, and are very good runners: The RS-3, RSD4/5, and RS-11 are great runners. As for Bachmann, and Model Power, most but not all of their stuff is j-class. Not for modellers, just toys for kids. The Bachmann Consolidation is worth the dough, btu I have none at this time. MP is coming out with a modeller's quality steamer soon, so look at them, too. As for rolling stock, you have tons of options. MDC, or Roundhouse *same maker* are great cars, that are CHEAP, easy to build and are available in dozens of roadnames. Atlas makes good cars, Micro-Trains has good stuff, but is tending to cater to collectos, and is more expensive. LBF, Red Caboose is great for detail and is reasonable. MP and LL cars tend to be less detailed, but cheap. If you wanna fill a yard cheaply and quickly, these are a good ticket. Con Cor also makes nice cars, some are more expensive and hard to find than others. The autoracks are nice, but are expensive in some stores. All rollingstock and engines to be operated on a modeller's layout tend to work more reliably with Micro-Trains couplers and trucks. All mine are, and I do not regret it. Track is a hard one. Micro-Engineering and Peco make great track, but it's pricey. Kato Unitrack is bulletproof, but pricey as well. Atlas Code 55 is great stuff that I haven't tried yet, but code 80 is everywhere, and cheaper. If looks aren't a big priority, code 80 is a better way to go. I am using it reliably, and it works very well with Peco turnouts, which are worth the extra couple of bucks. DCC is a hot ticket, but is expensive, and the techno-babble can be confusing for beginners like me. I plan on converting my loco fleet to DCC for easier operation, and easier wiring. On a 3x6, DCC is optional, but a good idea to consider. Just remember, this is all suggestions, advice, and experience, and whatever you choose as best for you, is up to you. Don't take my word for the law, and just HAVE FUN! Now that I have typed a book, if you have questions, email me! hemimopar426@hotmail.com Also see my webshots albums below to see my layout, and custom locos.
Welcome, there are some good productions of what you like in N scale. Atlas has a new and great run of GP-7s, and some older Alcos. Both run excellent. Kato has an older run of RS-2s and RSC-2s, which if you are not familiar with Kato, it is probably the nicest running loco company. I am not sure about Lifelike or Bachman except that Lifelike makes the only SW-1200, which run great Kato Atlas
Joe, a warm welcome to Trainboard Some good advice above, and have a look through previous topics in this forum - I think most items have been covered! And of course please ask questions about anything you need to know, we love talking about N scale
As everyone has been saying, welcome to the hobby! The top three manufacturers of locomotives are, at this time: Kato, Atlas, and Life-Like. Kato engines are sweet and you pay the premium to own them. Atlas' are just as good although a bit cheaper. Life-Like is the most cost effective one, offering quality engines at low prices. In the case of Life-Like, however, I recommend you stick with their later models with the exceptions of the E7/8 series and the GP-20's. The E7/8's are just awesome and the GP-20's are magnificent. I own 6 of the GP-20's (3 Santa Fe, 3 Pepsi) and 6 of the E7/8's (2 ATSF, 2 Amtrak, 1 PRR, 1 DRGW). Also, Micro Trains uses Life-Like engines in most of their sets. Rolling stock is a different matter. Micro Trains still has the best (IMHO), however the flanges on their wheels will not allow the cars to operate on Atlas Code 55 track. They are going to start releasing new cars with low profile wheels, but that is still down the road a piece. Roundhouse, Atlas and Intermountain also make good cars, although you'll need some advance modelling skills to buy Intermountain car kits. They are very detailed. Track. Go with what you like. Atlas Code 55 (AC55) is more prototypically correct for US rail but, as I stated before, older Micro Trains cars will not run well on it. There is also a problem with older engines with large flanges on the wheels. Peco Code 55 (PC55) and Micro-Engineering Code 55 (MEC55) are also popular. PC55 is required by my N-Trak group. PC55 makes the best switches (once again, IMHO). Atlas code 70/80 is, by far, the most prevalent out there. It is inexpensive and works quite well with all equipment I own. AC55 is equally inexpensive, however. As for buildings & people, you know what industries and scenes you want, so buy accordingly, regardless of manufacturer. Some good manufacturers are Walthers and Heljan. Heljan is more European oriented, however, just as Kato is more Japanes oriented. All in all, it's your railroad.
Wednesday, I got my first n-scale box car. It's a little micro-trains UP 40 foot box car. I decided that I'm going to keep this first layout on the simple side. What do you use for ballast? Is the LL SD-7/9 a very good performer? How sharp of curves will it make without having problems? Thanks for all the help and encouragement. Joe
Joe, I have an SD7/9 from LL, and it negotiates all the tightest curves on my layout, altho the min. radius is whopping 20"! Most of us use Highball Products, or Woodland Scenics ballast, and if you need a how-to on laying the ballast, you know where to go! Most of us more experienced folks agree that you should never ballast your track until it is as perfect as you can get it, as it is a pain to re-align a spot that's ballasted, not to mention wasteful. Ballast isn't dirt cheap, although all it really is crushed rock... My mainline is not ballasted, and I have a new found kink to work out before I ballast.
