Thanks harron...that makes sense. I think that will work for me. Now to figure out where to run it from there...hahaha.
harron, would it be possible for you to show me what the stub ended yard would look like? thanks for all your help.
Well here are a few more options. Keep in mind that the number of tracks and length of the staging tracks directly relates to how big your trains are going to be and how many you want to store. Also your era plays a part, determining the length of your equipment which tells you how long your train is for a given number of cars. Length of car multiplied by 12 and divided by 160. 40ft car = 3" 50ft car = 3.75" 60ft car = 4.5" 89ft car = 6.675" The first plan below simply extends the through tracks around the next curve, taking full advantage of the space available. The inner track is approximately 115" in length to clear, which is the equivalent of 22 4.5" cars and 3 engines. If you plan on running shorter trains, then you could pull trains in behind each other. An alternative would be to not make this staging through staging, and the tracks could be lengthened by a few feet. The second plan adds a stub siding off of the inner loop. These tracks are much shorter, the shortest being 30" to clear, but it allows for more storage room while shortening a through track for clearance. The third plan is a straight stub-ended yard with 6 tracks, the shortest being 34" in length. The length could be extended if you dropped the mainline slightly to allow the tracks to extend over it. These are just several options and variations - there are many more available. Keep in mind that you are going to want to have access in the middle so you can get in and fiddle with cars or fix a derailment. The reach to the back corner of the closet will be near impossible.
Thank you so much harron. I appreciate the time you put into drawing these up for me. Now i just have to figure out how many turnouts etc. I need to get
But note that "40-foot", "50-foot" and "60-foot" cars are often slightly longer than those apporximate lengths, and those don't include couplers.
Kirtdog; The idea Harron is showing in the first attachment is like the same idea I was trying to describe earlier. Put that loop (aka yard storage) inside the closet. In fact, double the number of tracks for the yard and a have an "easterly" and "westerly" group of yard tracks with two leads into the closet and two out of the closet..
Train1. Thanks I think that is what i want to do. I need to sit down and figure out what turnouts i need. I have tried to use the atlas layout software but i can't figure it out. I don't want to buy a bunch of turnouts that i won't need. I tried to look at the plan that harron put up but i can't read the trackplans either...:tb-biggrin:
Before going too crazy with leads and tracks, again think about the trains you are running. The inner radius on that loop is 13.75." Sure you can go tighter, but how tight are you willing to go based on the equipment you want to run? The configuration might have to be changed as well. If you want it in the first style, the plan is currently 3 r/h and 3 l/h turnouts (I used #5s). Let me know how many tracks you want to try and squeeze in and the depth of your shelf outside the closet and I'll see if I can come up with a plan for you.
harron, My shelves outside the closet are 18" deep. I think the biggest engine I may end up getting would be an sd70 or sd80 although, I can live without them. I have knocked out a few walls and opened up the whole closet. The pic shows some of what I have done. I have about two more feet to take out. This area will no longer be hidden which is fine. I am going to use code 80 track as i already have about 25 pieces of flex lying around. I didn't see an number 5 in atlas. What type of turnouts are you using?
Here is a pic of the completed demolition of the closet area. Time for a little clean up and the construction can resume. I still have to take out the drywall where the light is hanging. i am going to either redo the drywall or just put plywood or something on the wall and repaint
work is progressing almost ready for some finishing work.... The wall is straight...lol. the gaps on the left are due to years of pressure on the cinderblocks used to build the foundation. Also, the gaps up above will be addressed. Some issues from the previous work that was done but I can fix it.
Finished work I have finally gotten around to finishing the work and it is time to get some trains running Here are some pics of the finished product (well almost finished...still have to do floor, trim etc.) Check here to help me out with a track plan: Ideas wanted Input needed - TrainBoard.com
before/after pics The gap between the cinder blocks and drywall will be addressed. The blocks have pushed in due to pressure from the earth outside of it. It is structurally safe.
Wow, helping you out in the track plan thread, I didn't even realize you knocked out a closet for this. You're going to have a fantastic layout, and soon, at the speed you seem to be working!
updated pics tomorrow (hopefully) Still looking for some atlas code 80 #6 turnouts...anyone got some lying around?
updated progress I have gotten quite a bit done. I decided to use L-girder construction for the rest of the benchwork. I have install a few more joists and attach the ply. I still have to make a dropdown or a removable section for the door opening also. here are some pics...give me some suggestions, criticism, etc. all is welcome. This project has come a long way from its beginning. I am almost ready to start laying some track
update Still working on benchwork. All that is left to do is build the liftout or dropdown to span the door opening. Here are some pics of the progress:
